Is there a legitimate reason this car cannot exist? I think this combo would be great in the US, it'd be a GTI killer and you'd get some buyers who are missing the WRX hatch.

I love my Miata but I'm a dad now and I'd probably trade in the Miata right now for a red hatch AWD manual turbo.

Old Miata pic for your viewing pleasure.

That poor little thing... 😭

Although to be fair, the worker was trying to tell the driver not to go ahead. Not in a very convincing manner but still

These are the M011 metal gun finish with gloss black. Should I swap them for my stock wheels? the previous owner spray painted them but they dont look that good. Ive seen someone with this exact setup on the road it looked pretty nice. We agreed to $300 which is decent my only issue they dont have TPSM

About to order a new Mazda3 Takumi with the e-Skyactiv X, automatic, and before I sign anything I wanted to get a proper read on the engine itself since it seems like a genuinely different beast compared to the regular Skyactiv-G.

Daily driving will be mostly city, stop and go traffic, a decent amount of lights and jams since I live in a fairly busy European city. On top of that I'll be doing a longer highway trip roughly once every two weeks, a few hours each way. So it's really a mix of constant short trips at low revs most days, with periodic longer stretches at speed.

A few things I've picked up from other owners that I'd like people's honest take on, not trying to talk myself out of it, just want the full picture:

Spark plugs apparently don't last as long as you'd expect on this engine, some people report having them changed way earlier than the official interval and them being pretty pricey when they do go.

Carbon buildup and injector clogging seems to come up a lot for GDI engines in general and I've heard the X isn't immune, with a couple of people mentioning it can go unnoticed since it won't always throw a check engine light.

The supercharger itself apparently can develop a whining or grinding noise on some cars, sounds like Mazda has acknowledged this on certain units.

Given all that, is the X actually a sensible engine for mostly city and traffic use, or is that exactly the kind of driving that accelerates these issues since it never gets to breathe on the highway. And for the fuel side, is running standard 95 fine day to day, or is it worth deliberately running higher octane premium fuel with the stronger cleaning additive every so often just to keep things clean, since in my country the beefed up cleaning additive only comes in the 98 variant.

Also curious if there's a driving style that actually helps this engine stay healthy, like should I be deliberately revving it higher sometimes even in the city, or does the compression ignition side of things handle that differently than a normal petrol engine would.

Would really value hearing from anyone who's put real km on one of these, especially in a similar city plus occasional highway pattern, good or bad experiences both welcome.

There is a new update for the Mazda 6e (at least in Germany) for the new year.

Configuration are already online.

most important:

New lithium-ion battery (LFP) with 78 kWh battery capacity, maximum 200 kW fast charging capacity and a WLTP range of up to 560 km (combined energy consumption 16.1 kWh/100 km, combined CO2 emissions 0 g/km, CO2 class: A) only one option is available.

Improved driver assistance systems, optimized chassis and steering tuning, better acceleration and increased maximum recuperation

New HOMURA PLUS trim line offers sporty accents in the interior and exterior; TAKUMI PLUS now also available with white seat covers

Improvement in language pronounciation.

So Mazda is listening to critism and trying to improve in certain areas.

Hello, recently acquired a 2026 Mazda 3 Hatchback Carbon edition. I would like to purchase a dash cam that can record both the front and back of my car. It would be nice if it could record the sides as well but I don’t think any dash cams do that. I would like it to be very clear quality so license plates are readable. If possible, with audio recording as well. Does anybody know where to get one of these? I have never owned a car before and just got my license, so I am very clueless and Google is not giving straightforward answers. I’m in the US

I want to learn how to drive stick without breaking the budget, so I’m looking for something that’s fun to drive and isn’t ugly as sin. So I found a 2014 mazda 3 with 100k miles for $3,000.

What do you guys think?

No Mazda, I will never turn it back on, you data-leeching vipers.

Rebuilt the heads, All new gaskets, timing, suspension, brakes & rotors all around, caliper and some more stuff. All it needs is a flex pipe and wheel speed sensor. Car drives great, the skyactiv tech is some awesome shit. Domed pistons 14:1 compression. I love the no turbo no cvt. I’m a mechanic and have driven so many cars, the transmission is the best I’ve felt at this mileage. These cars have super easy to release handbrakes and super light seatbelts. No internal engine wear, still OEM crosshatching. Subaru, Toyota, Mazda are the best cars ever built. BMWs are the most fun

2021 CX30 2.5 S
I don’t know too much about cars. But my car started clicking & making a thumping noise while turning and driving. When I researched the issue it sounded like my cv joint or axle needed to be replacement. Has anyone dealt with this? & what are the costs and where to go? I know the mazda dealership is an option but that sounds like ill paying a lot for it. Maybe even overpaying.

I've had my 2020 Mazda3 for 6 years now. I'm about to make my last payment and during a parking job gone wrong (I made a bad mistake with the rear brakes) I've had the EPB rebuilt. I'm afraid they are getting close to the end and I'm trying to prepare by getting replacements . I'm going to take it to a local shop soon to get their opinion too but the mobile mechanic i worked with to get the vehicle at least functioning let me know that the motors were going. I'm trying to find the parts without going straight to mazda because each part is around 500 bucks. If I have to bite the bullet I have to but I'm really trying to not spend a a stupid amount that I can't really afford to get this done. What are your guy's experience or suggestions on procuring parts? I'm just honestly trying to avoid the heavy markup.

I recently lost my two-month old 202 CX-5 because of a distracted driver, which means I need to re-negotiate my lease and of course I am looking for any discount/loyalty codes I can get. I see a new additional offer under the "additional offers you may qualify for" section in my dealership, which reads "30th Annual Miata's at the Gap".

Has anyone received a code for this?

I bought a Mazda CX-70 Turbo Premium Plus about 6 months ago. I got a pretty good deal on it since it was at 11K miles. As soon as I hit around 18K miles, the tire treads were at 4/32, so I figured it would be a good time to change them before the fall.

After getting them changed, I noticed my TPMS system started having issues. When I start my car, it would say "TPMS Malfunction. Have the Vehicle Inspected." I went back to Discount Tire and had them check the sensors in each tire, and all four of them were reading and responding. I went to a local Mazda dealership, and they were asking for $240/hour (minimum time needed was 1.5 hours) for them to look into it. If it is an issue with the sensor in the tire, that's $190/sensor, on top of labor costs.

The error will turn on about 75% of the time at the start, goes away once I start driving, and then sometimes comes back on while I am driving. Has anyone else had this issue before? How did you fix it?

For a couple of months now, my windshield wiper fluid sensor has been saying that it's running low. When I check, it's full. Similar to the TPMS issue, it'll show on my dashboard, go away, and sometimes come back as I drive. Both occur intermittently.

I know my sensors are fine, since if they were broken from when they moved them from my old set, it would not read at all if they checked again. This has been happening for over 2 weeks now. I also don't want to pay $240/hour for some tech to look at it who may or may not find anything wrong with it, but it feels like it is the only choice right now.

I got my Mazda 3 last year and I have been experiencing shakes, usually when I’m at a stop light, or when I’m at a full stop. sometimes when I’m driving slow, it’s shakes to the point you could feel the entire car is slightly shaking which is very scary especially once when I was driving in the freeway. I have taken it to the dealer to get it checked and they said that since it didn’t shake when they had it they couldn’t diagnose it and everything else looked good, they even made a video showing me what they checked. they also mentioned that it could happen when the car is driven for long distances unexpectedy, for example if theres sudden changes in driving longevity, that it is supposedly recharging.

Hey everyone, about to order a new Mazda3 hatchback, e-Skyactiv X, automatic, 2026/2027 model year.

Everything else is decided, just stuck on FWD vs AWD and wanted some real-world input before I pull the trigger.

I live in a European city with pretty bad traffic, which is why I went automatic in the first place. Weather-wise it’s four proper seasons but winters are mild, maybe a few days a year with actual snow on the roads.

I also plan on doing a lot of touring with this car, long highway drives across different parts of Europe, mostly motorways and well paved roads, nothing off-tarmac.

Price difference between FWD and AWD on my build comes out to around €2,500.

So given that, city driving, barely any snow, lots of highway touring, is AWD actually worth it on the e-Skyactiv X or would FWD do the job just as well? Would love to hear from people who’ve driven both, especially how AWD affects fuel economy and everyday feel when you’re not dealing with snow at all.