My 06 Honda accord. Has got me from point a to point b maybe once or twice

My 2018 Kia Rio has a failing alternator. Once I charge the car does it make sense to periodically start it to keep the charge going?

Do you keep receipts, rely on the dealer/shop, use a spreadsheet or app, or mostly just remember? Have you ever needed the history later—for a repair, warranty claim, or sale—and found it incomplete?

The project truck sat for about six weeks while I sorted out some other things. Started it up last weekend to prep for a camping run and it idled rough for the first few minutes before smoothing out. Not catastrophic but noticeable enough that I started secondguessing the plan.

The sit time is unavoidable given how I use it. It goes out on trail access roads maybe twice a month in warmer months, then barely moves in winter. I do the basics before any longer drive, but six weeks in a garage changes things in ways a pretrip oil check doesn't fully address.

What I keep running into is conflicting information about how long is too long between starts on an older carbureted engine. Some people say a weekly idle does more harm than good because it doesn't get hot enough to burn off moisture. Others treat it like gospel. I haven't found anything that actually settles it.

The rough idle on startup cleared itself out, but I want to know if that pattern is something to track or something to ignore. Fuel sitting in the carb bowl is the obvious suspect, but the timing hasn't been touched in two seasons either and that feels overdue.

What do people here actually do for longterm storage between uses on a classic that isn't getting daily miles? Not looking for a full restoration protocol, just real experience.

Had a pre inspection done on a 2009 challenger. Mechanic that inspected said that there was “excessive” rust and exposure to salt. Said it’d be best to walk away.

I dont have any current photos of the car only old ones. Being that I live in FL how much of an issue would it be if I were to purchase? Salesman also stated that he can have sealant put underneath the car.

\*IMPORTANT*\
The photos that I have added are NOT current. I don’t know how long ago they were taken, could be YEARS OLD so the rust could’ve progressed.

Any feedback appreciated!

Not sure if this is the correct flair, but my parents Toyota Camry’s stereo does this beeping, we’re unsure how to make it stop. It’ll beep like this, then go quiet for about a minute or two, the beep again twice, then it stops for about 10 minutes roughly. Any ideas guys?

Why is my steering wheel’s emblem peeling like this?

I know it’s strictly cosmetic, but what would y’all say happened, here? And do we know if any possible inexpensive fixes I could attempt, should I be feeling particularly vain one day?

(I should add that while I have very small hands, another person who’s been driving my car frequently does not, so perhaps that has something to do with it?)

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

i got 2010 328i (e93)
I’ve watched every single video on youtube manually released the hydraulic pressure, and unlocked the flap latches. The tonneau cover (the compartment lid) opens up fine but when I try to lift the hardtop out, it feels like it's still locked inside the trunk area...It won't budge at all.....Even though I already bypassed the hydraulics and released the latches, the hardtop is getting stuck because of some lock mechanism inside the trunk. Does anyone know why this happens? If anyone knows a fix, please help me out 😭😭

NOT MY VIDEO* I was looking into this SRT4 for sale near me as a project car and I noticed in the video that it sounds weird when idling. I’ve never owned a manual car nor one as loud as this so I have no idea if it’s an issue with the engine itself. Thanks!

Hey everyone,

​Looking for some quick perspective from folks driving modern turbo cars in super hot climates.

​I live in the UAE where summer temps sit around 45°C–50°C. My car strictly calls for 0W-20 from the factory, but every local mechanic keeps swearing I need to switch to 5W-40 to protect the engine from the desert heat, claiming 0W-20 is just thin water for emissions targets.

​My concern is that modern bearing tolerances and variable oil pumps are engineered specifically for thin oil to flow fast and cool the turbo, and 5W-40 might just create extra fluid friction and spike oil temps.

​For anyone living in extreme heat:

​Did you actually switch your 0W-20 car over to 5W-40?

​If so, did you notice any real differences in oil temps, pressure, or engine responsiveness?

​Or is it better to just stick to 0W-20 and change it every 7,500 km?

​Would love to hear some real-world experiences before my next service. Cheers!

Drove back from San Antonio last week, about four hours, mostly highway after dark. Lost count of how many oncoming cars had me completely blinded for a solid two or three seconds. Not annoyed blinded. Actually cannot see the road blinded. That is not a small thing at highway speeds.

I've been reading up on this because that's what I do, and apparently there's a whole argument about whether adaptive headlights help or make it worse depending on how they're aimed. Half the cars I see look like they were aimed by someone pointing at the sky.

What gets me is that I remember driving at night in the 90s being fine. Not perfect, but fine. Now every third vehicle coming at me feels like it's running a light bar off a construction site.

My Pilot is a 2017 and the headlights are whatever they are, nothing special. But I'm looking at replacing it eventually and headlight quality is now genuinely on my list of things I care about, which feels insane to even type.

Curious if anyone else has noticed this getting worse over the last few years, or if it's specific makes and models that are the real problem. Some nights it feels like a genuine safety issue, not just an annoyance.

Hi, be patient with me as I know only the bare minimum basics of cars please!

I drive a Honda CV (2018). Shes been an excellent car and has never given me any substantial issues. However, today, I was getting ready to drive to my college campus, and as I plugged in my phone, it said ‘no data’. Weird. Tried unplugging and fiddling around- no luck, so heres the list of shenanigans I tried with again, no luck;

I restarted my phone, I cleaned the port, I got another charger, I reset my cars settings, I made sure no debris was in the USB car port, I made sure carplay was on, I disconnected my phone and reconnected it, I turned off bluetooth…I was basically grasping at straws all day today.

The ONLY thing that semi works is my bluetooth connection. It’s extremely spotty and glitches, but it plays.

Can anyone PLEASE tell me why this is happening? I have never once had this issue. Could it be because my iphone updated to a version it might not support? Is there anything I can personally do, or should I take it into a shop— and if so… where exactly do I go for such issue?

Thank you for reading this- Im so incredibly frustrated and scared I might have done something without knowing because this is the first time it has happened. Last night it was completely fine, no issues on either end. Now this? Im confused about what changed & any advice would be so appreciated.

Hello I'm just wondering what type of flange and Gasket needed because I see multiple shapes that all would work but I don't have a welder

Looking for recommendations or advice on long-term/monthly car rental options in the Northern Virginia (NOVA) area.

I am exploring my options for a monthly vehicle setup(Budget Friendly) and would love to hear from anyone who has experience with:

• Traditional rental agency monthly/long-term programs (Hertz, Enterprise, etc.)
• Peer-to-peer car sharing platforms (like Turo) for extended periods
• Car subscription services or local long-term leasing options in the region

If you've done something similar around NOVA, what platforms or options worked best for you, and were there any specific logistics or pitfalls I should keep in mind? Thanks!

my 93 3000gt base DOHC wont start, it ran the other day and wouldn't go past 3-3500 rpms and I noticed the timing belt was a bit too tight so I took it off to redo it, when I was trying to start it something felt off so I checked it and the belt was loose ( I used what was supposed to be a gates t195k), I have the tension correct and the timing correct now and it just sounds like it's metal grinding so I'm assuming I bent valves?, I'm going to attach pictures and a video here soon but, I'm also curious what these 2 connectors go to because it's a 91 engine converted in a 93 body so I did rewire some things years and years ago.

Clean it off first or send it?

Hi everybody! I just bought a 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid with 188k miles on in and I've got a couple of questions on it.

When I bought the car I was given the paperwork for all service records since the guy bought it (only one owner), and he had a new IMA and 12 volt battery installed less than 50k miles ago. The check engine light is on and the IMA light, but I took a chance and bought it because it was a really good deal and it was running great.

My first question is- When i'm driving the battery power gauge will go down very quickly. Like 2 minutes in and it'll go back down to 2 bars even from full. It charges back up but I'm wondering if this is a normal rate of discharge? I've never driven a hybrid before and this is all new to me.

Second question- The second day after I bought it the red battery light came on the dashboard. I looked online and it said how it means the system isn't charging correctly. I parked it and went out the next day to check and it had turned off and hasn't come back on since. I did some research and it looks like the might be the DC-DC converter? If anyone has experience with this problem please let me know.

I know something is wrong with it but I want to narrow it down a bit and I just want to know if I'm okay to drive this thing to work for a few weeks before I get paid and wont end up stranded. I'll have to get some work done to it but I'm hoping it's just the converter and that I don't have to replace the entire battery system as it was done recently enough.

Sorry for the wall of text lol, thanks guys!!

Since the sedans are dying and each brand killing one of there nameplates for SUV and crossover and trucks and big factor is able to fits stuff and don’t worry about renting a truck.

Old land yacht had plenty of room and storage to fit A lot of thing and able install a hitch if you needed a trailer or something u can pull light load basically made every car viable for hauling.

The downfall of sedans they started to get shorter and getting smaller to unable to add hitch to a vehicle and the trunk space got a lot smaller over the years

Old land yacht has transformed into trucks and Suv

The sedans transform into CUV

Back in April 2024, my 2014 Dodge Charger R/T officially became an amphibious victim of the massive floods in UAE.

She was a proper 5.7L Hemi muscle hunk. Loud, comfortable, and always ready to slide the back end out on demand. Turns out, despite being shaped like a heavy duty speed boat, the Charger does not double as a submarine. RIP to a floating legend.

It honestly took me two full years of emotional recovery (and walking) to get over losing that raw V8 rumble. But this year, I finally pulled the trigger on a 2021 Lexus IS350 F-Sport.

Going from an American sledgehammer to this Japanese precision missile is a night and day shift. The Dodge turned like a battleship, but the Lexus actually knows what a corner is and hooks into turns like it's on rails. The interior feels like an upgrade from a jump seat to first class.

I’ll always miss my aquatic Dodge, but the Lexus makes the two year wait totally worth it.

Anyone else lose a favorite car to water damage and end up in a completely different genre years later?

Hi, everyone!

I drive a 2016 Acura ILX. It has 122,642 miles on it and has an automatic transmission. Almost two weeks ago, it started starting up in accessory mode. That’s the first time my car ever did that and I’ve had it since 2019. I took it to my mechanic and he ran codes, looked it over, and couldn’t find anything mechanically wrong with the it. He thought that I had a bad fob. He replaced the battery in my fob, but a day later, it started starting back up in accessory mode. My spare fob was at home when he initially looked at my car, so he told me if my main fob started acting up again, to find my spare fob, put a new battery in it, and see if my car would start up like normal.

My car started like normal for a week with my spare fob. I just started it up a few minutes ago with my spare and lo and behold, it started up in accessory mode again. It took me seven tries to get the engine to turn on. I’ve attached a video of what it does.

I’m leaving for vacation tomorrow, so I can’t get it back into the mechanic for almost a week. Does anyone have any idea of what could be going on? I’m a little stressed with this happening again right before I leave for vacation. 🤯😢

Thank you!