We have an attic room with terrible insulation.

During the day, I have it set to 75 since it’s never even gonna get that close.

She insists that turning it down will make the room cooler.

How can I explain to my wife that this doesn’t work?

My HVAC is 5 years and 5 months old. Builder, and I, didn't register the HVAC, so out of warranty of 5 years. Airflow has gotten worse over the last week and now there is almost no cold air coming out. Blower looks to be working well. HVAC Company says there is a clog in the Evaporator coil and needs to be replaced. They said everything else including the TXV looks good. Other quotes over the phone for the evaporator coil replacement are around $4k to 5k, Charlotte, NC Area.

So we bought this house a few years ago and in 2020 a new gas HVAC system was installed. Mice chewed on our ducts so we got them replaced today and I went up in the attic and happened to notice that one pipe is pointed to the top of the roof but not out of it. Right next to it is this capped off feature. We have 2 whirlybirds but I don't think this is one of them as usually you can just see right outside from the fins. So did they just not bother to direct it outside and think this is fine? We never had any issues before and have CO detectors in the entire house and in the winter most of the gas should be able to direct out but what the hell. Wonder what everyone else thinks

Hey everyone, I’m trying to troubleshoot an outdoor sensor issue with my Honeywell VisionPRO 8000 with RedLINK thermostat, model TH8321R1001.
This issue started around April 2026. Before then, the thermostat had been operating normally for years. Then one day it started reporting that the outdoor sensor was missing/not communicating. I didn’t really know what sensor it was referring to at the time, so the issue has basically remained there since April.
I’m finally trying to figure out exactly what happened and fix it.
I went into Installer Setup and found several settings related to an outdoor sensor. The thermostat is/was configured for an Outdoor Air Sensor, and it was also showing a setting for a Wired Outdoor Sensor.
I pulled the thermostat off the wall and checked the wiring. I’ll include pictures, but as far as I can tell, there are no wires connected to the S1 sensor terminals.
As a test, I changed Wired Outdoor Sensor from YES to NO. After doing that and exiting Installer Setup, the thermostat displayed a message saying:
“Outdoor Sensor needs to be added.”
Because the system worked normally for years before suddenly reporting a missing sensor in April, I’m wondering if this system originally used a RedLINK wireless outdoor sensor rather than a wired sensor.
I’ve walked around the entire exterior of my one-story house twice looking for an outdoor sensor and cannot find one anywhere. I’ve checked around the HVAC condenser, exterior walls, siding, under the soffits/overhangs, etc.
It’s possible that an old wireless sensor was knocked off or damaged during yard work at some point without us realizing what it was. I don’t know that for certain, though. I just know that I can’t find one now.
I’m going to attach pictures showing:
Thermostat model sticker (TH8321R1001)
Wiring/terminals behind the thermostat
Installer Setup sensor settings
The “Outdoor Sensor needs to be added” message
What I’m trying to figure out is:
1. Based on this configuration, does it look like this thermostat originally had a RedLINK wireless outdoor sensor?
2. If so, is the correct replacement for the TH8321R1001 the Honeywell/Resideo C7089R1013?
3. If I buy a replacement C7089R1013, can I simply enroll the new sensor through RedLINK and restore the system, or are there installer settings I need to change first?
4. Is there anything else in these pictures/settings that would explain why the thermostat expects an outdoor sensor despite nothing being connected to S1?
I’d rather restore the outdoor sensor than disable the feature, especially since the HVAC system appears to have originally been configured to use one.
Any advice from someone familiar with the older VisionPRO 8000/RedLINK systems would be appreciated. I’m mainly trying to make sure I buy the correct sensor and don’t mess with HVAC installer settings unnecessarily.

I got banned from the HVAC sub for posting this. Seems because I haven't posted any HVAC related things they didn't believe I worked in the field. But I did many years ago and that's why I still have this analog Amprobe, and I also had no problem answering their little quiz questions in order to post. Oh well.

I’m trying to get this remediated for six years now. 1957 original ductwork. Mastic is removing whatever the finish is. I tested this original ductwork finish and it’s positive for lead. now I have lead material flaking off into my basement.

Anxious homeowner here… is this the sound of refrigerant leaking from the coil? AC is holding temp just fine at 74. It was over 90 today in Chicago suburbs. I see no ice buildup on the coil or on the unit outside. The unit wasn’t running during the video. Should I shut off the AC?

Hello!

I’ll try to keep this short.

My AC went out Wednesday evening. I called a local company and they were able to send out a tech Thursday afternoon. The tech was very thorough and checked several things before eventually concluding that the defrost control board was probably faulty. He came to this conclusion while moving aside some wiring and the suddenly the fan kicked back on. He had checked refrigerant levels and power coming to the unit and ruled those out as causes.

He then explained that I could replace the defrost control board myself for about $30 and told me how to do it safely by cutting power first. When he left, the fan was running and the temperature inside my house was gradually coming down. I was at the house for about 30 minutes after he left before I had to run out for a while. When I got home around 10:30pm, the temperature inside my house was about 85 degrees. I was hoping the defrost control board would hold out for a while and I wouldn’t have to replace it immediately, but now I’m thinking I should.

This guy came from a well respected local company and was very interested in teaching me and talked me through every step he went through. I have no reason not to trust him, but I also like the idea of gathering some other opinions before I order a new board and attempt to install it myself.

Before I do this, is there any way to confirm this is the exact problem? Are there any other possible explanations? Is a loose connection somewhere possible, since this happened while he was pushing aside some wires to get a better look? And if so, is crimping the connections tighter instead of replacing the board a possibility? Are there any reasons I shouldn’t do this myself, and instead just call this company again and have them do it? Is there ANYthing else I should consider?

I tried to be thorough in my description of what’s happening but if you have any questions, let me know. Thanks in advance for any insight!

I have a Bryant/Carrier setup:

• 37MUHAQ36 modulating inverter heat pump
• 927TA60080V21 two‑stage furnace
• Ecobee thermostat (conventional mode)

One installer wired the system single‑stage (Y2 only, Cool2 only).
Another dealer says it should be wired two‑stage (Y1 + Y2 to the furnace, Cool1 + Cool2, dip switch set for 2‑stage cooling).

Carrier documentation shows the furnace supports dual‑stage cooling airflow and the Ecobee supports 2H/2C conventional.

Question:
For this equipment combination, should the inverter be controlled as a 2‑stage heat pump (Y1/Y2) so it can use both modulation envelopes, or is single‑stage wiring actually correct?

Looking for technical reasoning, not brand loyalty.

thanks much for your time..

House still has cool air coming through the vents. The machine keeps making a sound while running. The noise starts about 6 sec in.

UPDATE: It was the capacitor, fixed already

I recently bought a new house and it comes with 2 HVAC units, both 1-stage gas furnace+ac unit. I unit is zoned with a Honeywell HZ432 to 3 zones. The other unit is zoned with a HZ432 to 2 zones. The unit with 2 zones controls that second floor where the bedrooms are located. There is an unfinished large attic above the second floor. The furnace/coil are located in this space.

My problem is the second floor has an AC that runs, but it has very high humidity (70% or more at times) which makes keeping it comfortable much harder to do. I changed out the Honeywell Home T6 Pro for an Ecobee Enhanced model. I made some adjustments with it and ran it for a lower temperature and have seen the humidity decrease down more in the 66-70% range. Better, but not great. The other thermostat is an american standard basic model that I will replace with an Ecobee Essential.

I looked at the HZ432 and noted that the configuration seems a bit weird. There are 2 zones, but they are plugged into Zone 1 and Zone 3 with the settings for 3 zones enabled. Is this causing a problem? Any suggestions for decreasing the humidity to a more tolerable level?

Morning folks.

Had some storms roll through all day yesterday and we experienced a power surge that I believe fried something in our AC unit. The outside unit is spinning fine, no odd sounds or hums. I shut the breaker off for 30 minutes for a hard reset and it didn't help anything. The units kick on and the fans blow but there's no cold air. I just pulled into work and didn't think to take pictures before I left home. Whaddya thinks going on here? Capacitor? If so, do the capacitors still store energy or is that a thing of the past?

Appreciate the help and advice and hope yinz guys have a great Labor Day weekend!

Hi,

Does anyone know where to get “Danfoss” items?
I got a quote from cballast.com, prices seem ok, but I am wondering if there are any companies that basically do b2c , and not rs components. I live in a fairly remote area so i expect 1-2weeks delivery anyways.

Thanks for any tips,

Some of the parts im looking for:

Danfoss - 013G1020
Danfoss - 003L7107
Danfoss - 060G3011
Danfoss - 060G1109

🙏 thanks

Pls dont make links just write url without link so i can actually see without getting post removed🙃

Is this something I can clean and maintain on my own? I’m looking for more information. I just bought this house and want to get it ready for winter

Just curious if you guys have any tricks to remove and seal the ends of A frame coil loops.. 3yr old american standard heat pump roof top unit

Hi all,

We have a forced air system in our condo with multiple vents throughout. Occasionally, a strong musty / mildew odour comes out of all vents at once. We haven’t lived here too long, but I think it’s only emitting this odour when the AC is on - but it’ll happen in random spades. Humidity in the unit itself as well is generally pretty low despite living in a wet city which is a bit bizarre.

We’ve tried cleaning the coils but to no avail. Is this likely a condo issue that we’re dealing with? We’re mostly concerned with mold.

We’ve asked our landlord to come clean it but he’s basically going to do the same thing as us so doubtful it’ll rectify the issue.

TIA.

I saw this pile of mud next to my furnace, which is in a closet in my rental apartment. The closet is a floor higher than the ground level (not in the basement). Why would there be mud in there?

Just moved in. The house is almost 100. Any suggestions for this vent? Is there such a thing that I could attach to the wall that would force the air up?

The bed has very very limited clearance from the floor so I don’t think I could put something under the bed.

I’ve done some investigating and I know most people will say move the bed. I’d love to, but it will not fit elsewhere! Trying to make the best of a not great set up.

https://reddit.com/link/1w6sm1l/video/rtxzdrwr6fnh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1w6sm1l/video/88cv6ent6fnh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1w6sm1l/video/9fttc2hu6fnh1/player

I need some help with something that's driving me nuts.

There's a continuous LOUD banging click noise whenever I shut off my machine and sometimes when i turn it on. It almost sounds electrical in nature (which seems to be the case given that i see the electrical flash on that inlet wire)

The length of these clicks seems to be correlated with how long I run the AC before turning it off.

Any ideas? I've been trying to get my building to fix it, but they don't seem eager to do anything.

I have an electrical engineering background, a voltimeter, and a can-do attitude.

My unit doesn’t have this option, none of the deflectors on Amazon seem to do what I need, has anyone found a good one for this purpose or came up with a diy option?

Hi All,

We're in the process of planning fora major renovation (gut job) of a 100 year old semi-detached house in Toronto Canada. The house is roughly 1100 Sq ft above grade (2 floors) with a plan to finish the basement (6'5" unfinished ceiling). It's both very exciting but very daunting as my family navigates this project.

The plan includes:

• Replace all drywall/floors
• New electrical (200amp panel)
• Replace all plumbing
• HVAC (Heat pump, furnace, heat pump hot water tank)
• Energy star doors/windows
• Closed cell Spray insulation - Attic R60, Exterior walls R20, Basement R20

Hoping to get some thoughts/opinions on the following

1. We are thinking of running the bulk heads for HVAC on main floor to supply main and 2nd floor. This would mean placing the supply vent high on the main floor with return air on the floor. Goal is to create a bit more usable space in basement. I know typically the supply is placed on the floor under windows. I am unsure if our idea of placing them high will cause problems for the heating. I've read that a building with tight air envelope may experience less stratification. Thoughts on the high supply/low return approach?
2. Thoughts on the Rheem® ProTerra® Hybrid Electric Heat Pump Water Heater? I read reviews online from a few years ago and they all say its very noisy, I am unsure if the noise has improved. We're thinking about this for efficiency (plan to reduce gas usage)
3. Any thoughts on Panasonic Interios Heat pump and Air Handler? I'm reading it's all rebranded Midea products. is there any equivalent product i should consider instead?
4. Thoughts on going with an Electric AUX heating instead of gas furnace for back up? I have an opportunity as part of this reno to step away from gas completely.

Thanks everyone in advance