I'm trying to install two light switches in a gang box with four cables. I'd hoped to get an electrician to handle this, but neither electrician in town has returned my call or text, even to turn me down... wondering if this is too small a job nowadays. So just trying to get our bathroom lights back on.

I drew up this diagram to show my best guess on wiring. I'm pretty sure the neutrals are correct (all tied together). The grounds looked odd, but that's how they were when I opened the box. I'm completely uncertain about the hot wires.

Please keep the comments helpful. I'm out of my depth and well aware of it, but doing the best I can without a ton of money or better options.

Removing old electric baseboard heaters from a dilapidated crap shack we're remodeling, and I come across this nastiness...

Poor little dude forgot the first rule of electricity -- make sure the power is off before you chew through any wires 😔

We have 150-amp service at our house and want to install a Tesla Wall Connector on a 60-amp breaker, set to charge at 48 amps. The load calculation for everything currently in the house plus the ev charger comes to 106.6 amps of calculated load on the 150-amp service (NEC 220.83(A)). 

I’d like the charger placed where the red T is, but I’ve had electricians give differing opinions on if it can go there. 4 estimates and they’re split down the middle 2 to 2. The “no” side says code says it has to be away from under the breaker box (they disagree on how far and which direction is best) and the “yes” camp says the other 2 are just wrong.

I’m told my little town uses 2011 National Electrical Code (NEC/NFPA 70). Any help, opinions or suggestions are appreciated.

Does anyone know what these light bulbs are called? I've been to numerous stores and no luck. These are used in a bathroom and sit behind a waterproof spotlight.

Greetings all. Currently have to put back together a motor for a lathe. The AC motor brake was rewound, but it came back with four terminations, instead of three.. is only a two trough brake (two winding spaces) but hooked to three phase contactor via the motor terminals.

The original was wrapped completely in tape, so the person who took it apart didn't note what was going on.

So I'm assuming that the two windings need to be connected in series? Finish of inner to start of outer? Then the two ends will go to U and W, and the spliced "center tap" will go to the "V' winding?

I'm guessing then I'll have to determine which wires I'll have to splice for the center (I e. Finish/start vs. start/ finish) by turning it on briefly?

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

So I’m trying to figure out if there’s a way to test a voltage regulator that’s not installed? From what I’ve read online it says yes. It’s a voltage regulator for a lawnmower with a Kawasaki engine. I know my original went bad because when I had the mower running at full throttle and tested the battery voltage it was at almost 16v. I bought a cheaper replacement regulator online and tried testing it using my multimeter’s diode setting. And it kept bouncing around before going to 0.00. From what I read it should read .4-.6 . But I bought another Kawasaki OEM replacement(granted it wasn’t from Kawasaki) but it’s also reading 0.00 . I know I could just install the new regulator but the old one fried the mowers battery and I haven’t got a new one yet. I’m nobody’s electrician but I’ve usually been able to figure out if something isn’t workin correctly with my multimeter. And I tested it with two different meters, both of which I know are functioning properly. Any help is greatly appreciated

I have a Midea chest freezer and a newly received Midea refrigerator in my garage. My home is newly built, so all outlets in the garage have GFCI due to code. Both appliances are plugged into separate outlets in my garage. The newly received refrigerator constantly trips my GFCI outlet. It only trips hours later, not immediately after being plugged in. Inside my house, a Samsung refrigerator is also plugged into a GFCI outlet and has no issue tripping it. Should I switch my garage outlet to a non-GFCI outlet? Also, how come my Midea chest freezer doesn't trip the GFCI?

Ignore the missing strain relief.

Is this the proper way for this dryer to be wired based on the wiring diagram from the manual in the second image?

This was posted earlier today, and the consensus was that this was correctly wired. I feel like this keeps happening in this sub, so I'll just remind everyone. Just because a wire is green does not always mean it should be connected to ground.

this situation, the green wire terminated on the right (8 in the diagram) is a grounding strap. In a 3-wire configuration, it grounds the chassis to the neutral. In a 4-wire configuration, it is not used, and it needs to be either removed or terminated to the neutral terminal. If left as it is in this picture, it is acting as a bonding jumper (bonding neutral to ground) - which is incorrect.

I’m troubleshooting a Miller Trailblazer 55D that has normal AC generator/receptacle output but 0 VDC at the welding terminals. Looking for some help pinpointing the welding circuit.

What I’ve established so far: 1. AC receptacles have normal output, 2. Welding output is 0 VDC, SR1 and SR2 rectifiers have both been replaced, 3. The brush/slip-ring assembly was removed and cleaned, 4. Brushes have good spring pressure.

Slip-ring resistance:
Ring 1–2: 50 Ω
Ring 1–3: 61 Ω
Ring 2–3: 14 Ω
All three slip rings to the rotor shaft/frame are OL.

Running brush-to-brush measurements:
Brush 1–2: 37 VDC
Brush 1–3: 25.5 VDC
Brush 2–3: 13.6 VDC

SR1 measurements: approximately 156 VAC / 60 VDC.
SR2 measurements vary with engine speed: approximately 60 VDC.
I confirmed the SR2 wiring goes directly to the revolving field/brush circuit, so I don’t believe those readings represent the actual welding output.

I’ve already checked the welding-generator AC side and am still getting 0 VDC at the weld output.

I’m trying to determine where the welding output is being lost. What should I be testing next on the 55D, and what component/circuit would you suspect given that the auxiliary AC output and field excitation are working?

Slab house, ceramic/tile floor. Idk why they didn’t wire I’m originally. So annoying posting so much counter space because I have to have electronics on the counter instead of being able to prep on the island.

I suspect this is a much more advanced job, so I was debating on having a workshop shop style outlet that I could drag down from the ceiling, and then wire through attic. (Would get creative with center light fixture to hide it.)

Edit: Looks like I just suck it up and continue using extension cable for temp use, or figure out a ceiling receptacle because current NEC standards require flip ups or hidden at counter level or above.

This is the cord that I have running to my pool. I have the green case “protecting” it from the elements. I just got it in the spring. Is it a fire hazard? What’s the best course of action?

I somewhat got it down there is a specialized tool which was crucial so thanks to everyone that commented ( I saw a lot of confusion because I didn’t specify I work in Germany and our company uses the A not B ) after 4 days in the apprenticeship this is the result (pictures are mine this time) the connection was without problems I checked with a device which I don’t know the translation for

My boss asked me to ground the armored fiber going into the rack, but I’m not sure how to properly attach the grounding equipment to the armored fiber.

I’ve included photos of the grounding equipment he gave me, from a few different angles in case anyone recognizes the part or can explain how it should be attached.

My bathroom lights are staying on? Picture on the right is my bathroom lights on. Picture on the left is with them completely ‘off’. I havent seen any problem with them and none of the lightbulbs are flickering and they work perfectly turning on and ‘off’. Every other light in the house is fine just not these bathroom lights. Not sure what this could be can anyone help?

Hi all,

I have an LG fridge and freezer stacking combo. Every time a power outage happens, my fridge and freezer stop working and make a ticking noise.

I figured out the problem myself the first time as it needed a new wiring harness and that fixed the problem. It took me MONTHS to find a replacement wiring harness as LG doesnt make them anymore. My mom happened to randomly find one (she loves ebay) and I replaced it and everything worked again.

Well, another power outage happened and the same problem is happening again. The problem, as stated previously, is I can't find another wiring harness anywhere. I truly believe the last one I bought was the last in existence.

I am confused as to why this happens every power outage, and does anyone have any advice for next steps? I was hoping an electrician could splice my old harness with a different harness part so it would work?

Thanks for the help.

Surely this won't be a problem.

I know it's universally hated, I hate it too. But recently had a simple Leviton 15A switch fail. It did have one wire back stabbed, but that was unrelated to the failure.

Curiosity got the best of me, so i took it apart. Figured out th​e failure, metal fatigue in the moving contact. Mind you this switch has had very little use in a unheated shed. Contacts were clean.

The back stabbed wire was in the stationary contact. Pic shows it with a dirty piece of workbench wire.

Anyway, I was actually pleasantly surprised to see how much contact area there is with wire when it is back stabbed and how well it is mechanically retained. It's UL listed so it's gotta be fine, right?

Would be great to have these if they worked and didn't have such a bad reputation.

​
Still not gonna use them in my wiring projects.

I’m currently over halfway to the 8,000 work hours required to obtain my journeyman electrician license. However, I recently discovered that I was never registered with LARA as an electrical apprentice until now. I had assumed my employer had registered me when I started, but unfortunately, they did not.

I do have a notarized letter from the licensed master electrician I worked under for the majority of those hours documenting my employment and hours worked.

Has anyone dealt with a similar situation? Were you able to get credit for hours worked under a licensed master electrician before your apprentice registration was completed, or did LARA require you to start over from the date you officially registered?

LARA’s Construction Codes office is closed today for training, so I plan to call tomorrow. I’m just hoping to hear from anyone who has experienced this firsthand in the meantime.

Thanks for any insight!