Only half of it is finished till the break in the rain so this is what is done so far.
I sheathed over everything with 7/16ths osb using H clips and proper fastening to the rafters/framing. Aside from some help loading the sheets, I cut and installed all the wood myself.
My two buddies who are retired roofers helped me with the roof system for the most part. I did lay some of the field and ridge as well as the drip edge.

There is still some caulking to do as well as vents to install on the side that’s done but how does it seem?

Any recommendations for the next section?

A few of these 2x4 beams have a not uniform black coating that is shiny. It has no odor and is clean to the touch. In o e pic, it looks like there is some drip of some kind. No mold. No flaking or evidence of wood having burned, and it is also localized, meaning not throughout the area (above the garage)

Has anyone ever seen this? Any insight into what this could be?

Thanks!

My home, moved in a year ago. Noticing the roof that covers the patio looks like it is barely hanging on. Am I worried about nothing?

Located on the a Colorado Front Range.

We are needing to replace hail damaged asphalt shingles. We started the process thinking we wanted to replace it with standing seam metal panels, but after talking with several folks that have more experience with it, the possibility of hail dinging the panels and insurance not willing to cover the damage real.

Stone coated steel tiles seem like maybe the best of all worlds. Lower cost than standing seam, much tougher than asphalt, class a fire-rated, and class 4 hail rating.

We've even been convinced that installing these tiles on batten, right on top of our current asphalt shingles would give us extra insulation.

I'm having trouble finding much for real world reviews in this stuff, outside of the fear-mongering about walking incorrectly on it and causing denting.

Anybody in Colorado with much experience with these tiles?

A storm dropped a large limb into my roof and broke a shingle on the ridge cap. The vent appears to still be intact but I'm worried it might leak if I don't repair it tonight. We're expecting rain the next 2 days.

Is there a temporary patch I can do until it dries up outside? Any help is appreciated!

It was just fixed today. He said in a few days it would be normal

I'm torn between flagging this as a home owner question or comedy/nonsense, but I need some advice, so here goes.

Story time first, if you just want to read my question, jump to the end.

The previous owners of our house were idiots (as is usually the case). There's been lots of evidence of this over the years we've owned the home, but I think this takes the cake.

Our house has a small addition off of the dining room. Exterior dimensions roughly 7x12 feet, with the long side adjoining our brick house. It's used as a closet and home office. The previous owners also had a roof porch installed over the addition which we have rarely used.

A few weeks ago, I was home unexpectedly one weekend due to a family emergency while the rest of the family was out of town, and there were rains overnight and into the morning. Low and behold, I'm sitting in my dining room Saturday morning and I hear a "drip, drip, drip" coming from the addition. It has a drop ceiling, and water was leaking from roughly the middle of the ceiling.

Eventually I had time to go up and see what was going on. The porch already was showing it's age and needing some work, but then I started lifting up boards and, well, as seen in the pictures whoever built the deck did seemingly everything wrong they could possibly do wrong.

- Fasteners were driven straight through the bitumen layers. (~30 screws + nails) why build a floating deck when you could just put holes in your roof instead?

- random amalgamation of fasteners used throughout the porch. It looked like they bought a 1lb box of deck screws, used them for whatever they could, and when they ran out, they used whatever else they had laying around, pretty much all of which weren't right for the application.

- legs attached to the face of the deck joists, so all the load is on non structural screws

- screws instead of nails used for attaching all of the joints hangers

- 4x4 corner posts held on by those tiny brackets

- too many other small details to list. I can post more pictures if desired, but I didn't take pictures of everything.

Anyways, it was immediately obvious the porch needed to go. It was in rough shape anyways and we didn't care much since we never use it. So, I removed the porch. Huge mistake, because then I got the see the roofing underneath it.

- so many layers of bitumen already on this roof. It looked to me like at least 4 distinct layers of roofing material never torn off during previous reroofing.

- even MORE fasteners (roofing nails) driven directly through the top layer of bitumen to fasten it to the layers beneath and presumably roof decking but I'm not confident the nails were long enough to penetrate all the layers of bitumen anyways

- the top layer of bitumen cut to fit around 2x4s laid flat on either side of the deck to support doubled 2x4s attached to the brick wall to support the railing.

- no termination bar or counter flashing. Just loads of dry and cracked roofing tar smeared all over the end of the bitumen and brick wall

- the roof joists appear the run parallel to the house and perpendicular to the slope of the roof, which seems wrong to me. But again I haven't had an opportunity to measure the true slope because of all the layers of material

There are other problems with the addition I won't get into, but suffice it to say my friend and I joked it might be easier to just burn it down and start over. I haven't ruled it out yet.

The weather has been absolutely uncooperative (extreme heat or constant rain) and demo has been a real chore, but I have the roof well covered for now. I've removed pretty much all of the old roofing material, tuckpointed the brick wall as needed, and hoping to wrap this whole project up labor day weekend.

--- My Problem ---

All of the above is obviously a lot of different problems, most will be solved by doing a full tear-off and reroof of the addition. We are not planning to build a new rooftop porch.

Where I'm looking for advice is not the roof itself (still, feel free to share), but the roof edge details.

If you look at the pictures of the roof edge, gutters and siding, you might notice a few things. To my untrained eye, these all seem wrong to me, which would be par for the course:

- the gutters are attached in front of the original drip edge. There is no fascia board behind them, and the drip edge runs behind instead of into the gutter.

- the siding terminates at the bottom of the gutter, not behind it. We got wasps in here one year because of the gap between the two.

- there is no fascia board

What I should do here?

The roof is such a sh** show, my plan is to remove and replace everything including the existing (1x12?) roof deck and start over with fresh plywood, install new drip edge, install cant strip at brick wall, prime, bitumen base course, bitumen top course, termination bar and counter flashing at the brick wall.

But I'm not sure what to do about the top of the siding and gutters. I have to remove the gutters and old drip edge in order to remove the roof deck. When I reinstall, should I install a fascia board first before reinstalling gutters, with drip edge running issue the gutter? Should the fascia board terminate at the top of the siding like the gutter does now, then caulk the seam? Or should the fascia extend past the top of the siding and terminate further down? Anything else I should worry about here?

It looks like the old wood siding is still attached beneath the aluminum siding, but I don't expect that to affect anything.

I hope someone here can help me, thank you!

We have about 2600sqft of roof between our main house and detached garage, the main house is ~2000 of that - this estimate is just for the main house, not for both structures. We have a handful of issues like missing and eroded shingles, some leaks into the attic, rot around the base of our chimney, blown insulation covering soffit vents, etc., so we got an estimate for a new roof and wanted to see if this amount seems reasonable for a full replacement with Certainteed shingles? Any feedback is appreciated, thank you!

I’m getting quotes for a complete roof replacement on a 1950s Cape in Long Island, NY, including the house and detached garage. I have two proposals from established roofing contractors and I’m trying to understand whether there are meaningful differences in the roofing systems.

Roofer A: $9,350

• Owens Corning TruDefinition Duration AR shingles
• Owens Corning ProArmor synthetic underlayment
• Owens Corning Rhino ice & water shield
• VentSure ridge vent
• ProEdge ridge caps
• New vent pipe flanges
• New copper step/counter flashing on brick chimneys
• First 3 sheets of plywood included
• $75–$95 per additional sheet depending on thickness
• 10-year workmanship warranty stated in the contract

Roofer B: $12,100

• GAF Timberline HDZ shingles
• GAF TigerPaw underlayment
• GAF WeatherWatch ice & water shield
• Cobra ridge vent
• GAF ridge caps
• New pipe collar flashing
• New chimney flashing
• First 3 sheets of plywood included
• $99 per additional sheet
• 10-year workmanship warranty

Roofer B also says the dormer flashing isn't included and that properly replacing it could require replacing the dormer siding for an additional $2,500. Roofer A says the existing dormer flashing can be inspected after tear-off and potentially replaced without replacing the entire siding section.

Both contractors appear established and have good reputations.

For those of you who actually install these systems:

1. Is there any meaningful quality difference between GAF Timberline HDZ and Owens Corning Duration?
2. Are there meaningful differences between TigerPaw vs. ProArmor and WeatherWatch vs. Rhino?
3. Is either roofing system better suited to Long Island's climate?
4. Is one manufacturer's warranty materially better than the other in practice?
5. Given the $2,750 price difference, would you consider one proposal clearly better value?
6. Are there any important things missing from either scope that I should be asking about before signing?

I'm mainly interested in hearing from roofers who have installed both GAF and Owens Corning systems.

My partner is roofing my roof for me and I'm pretty sure that strip isn't supposed to be visible. Does he just need to add another shingle? Or does he need to take the whole vent cap off and redo? I want answer before I start criticizing.

I’m getting quotes for a complete asphalt-shingle roof replacement on a 1950s Cape in Long Island, NY. I have two reputable roofers giving me very different opinions about the dormer flashing.

One roofer says the dormer flashing is not included because properly replacing it would require removing the entire section of siding on the dormer. He says the siding could be damaged during the process and quoted $2,500 to replace the entire siding section.

The other roofer says that once the existing shingles are removed, he would inspect the existing step flashing. If it needs replacement, he says he can generally pull/manipulate the bottom edge of the siding enough to replace the individual pieces of step flashing without replacing the entire siding section.

The existing dormer siding isn't known to be damaged.

So my questions are:

1. Is it normally possible to inspect and replace dormer step flashing from the roof side after the shingles are removed?
2. If the existing flashing is in good condition, would you normally reuse it?
3. If it needs replacement, does replacing the flashing typically require removing and replacing the entire section of siding?
4. Is the second roofer's approach of waiting until tear-off to inspect the flashing reasonable?
5. Does $2,500 for replacing the dormer siding sound reasonable if the only reason for doing it is to gain access to the flashing?

I'm trying to understand the actual roofing practice here rather than simply choosing whichever roofer is cheaper.

Thanks!

We’re getting our roofing fixed today. When they rebed should they be making the front flat? Ie grinding down the old concrete so it’s flat?
The end gable points up and we don’t know if we’re being fussy

Hi all! I could use some help/guidance here...

I bought a super shitty house. Real shitty. But now I'm stuck with it, and am trying to make the most of it.

I have no attic access. One room upstairs is vaulted, the rest is small dead space.

I'm having a humidity issue that is causing an HVAC duct up there to sweat. Yes, it has been very hot and humid. But I started thinking...I don't have any roof vents. I have a ridge vent, but no soffit vents, and that's it.

I'm having the roof replaced already later this month/early next month and am wondering if I should call to modify my quote a bit since the entire thing is being replaced? I have no idea what I should be asking for. I'm trying to teach myself! I'm researching! I'm reading that a ridge vent with soffit vents will work, but am wondering if there are any other options.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Shouldn’t these vents be covered? At least to prevent bugs and critters from getting in?

Hi, i have a 8 year old home. The plumbing boots all appear to be the cheap plastic type. I found this one cracked, so far luckily it appears no real water damage inside.

I want to do something that makes me not have to worry about this on any boot for the remainder of the life of the roof. Two roofing company gave me different answers.

One recommended replacing all the boots with higher quality boots. The other is recommending installing another sleeve over each boot. Not sure what brand, but from googling it, it sounds similar to the permaboot?

Is the "add a sleeve over it" just as good at a lot less effort and cost?

I’m 21 and never did actual hard labor but for the first time I did roofing yesterday, and I was getting very hot and numb (AZ weather) we were tossing the tiles to each other to stack them on the other side of the roof and that’s when my back started to feel pain after an hour of doing that. Is this normal? Will I get use to it and does anyone recommend any remedies.

My garage is attached and previously had a ridge vent. Recently I had the whole house roof replaced and they did not add the ridge vent.

The garage is sheet rocked and painted inside with insulation in the walls. Although the crawl space of the garage portion does not have insulation. Pretty certain we discussed replacing it but of course not everything is going to be listed on a smaller companies statement of work quote.

Should they have added a ridge vent? Will the lack of a ridge vent cause me issues down the line?

This is in the PNW where it rains about 9 months a year, if that matters.

So started to get some quotes on different prices for standard asphalt shingle roofs and had a buddy of mine who is construction engineer with no vested interest in selling me anything etc heavily recommend going with synthetic slate or some sort of metal roof.

We have a huge issues with leaves, twigs, and other debris catching in certain areas of roof and stubbornly refusing to go anywhere. He basically said that since the property sits on a heavily wooded lot (essentially in the woods) the slate or metal will shed debris much better and quicker than asphalt. He also said that while the durability of an asphalt roof would be fine the slate and metal are obviously better, but the overall appearance would remain far superior over a long period time due to the wooded lot as well. Especially due to the large amount of shade which will hold snow there in the winter and the humidity and moisture in the summers. We have an algae problem right now on parts of it and he said no matter what roofers tell you it will continue to happen over time on asphalt.

Obviously there is a big price difference but we are starting to lean more towards slate to do it right with one shot at this. Metal I know would work as well but most metal roofs other than possibly the interlocking ones would likely look terrible on a colonial like ours.

Most roofers so far have been very hesitant to recommend it so far. My thought is some might not that be as experienced with laying it or know its more of a headache to install etc. Personally I'd rather have someone give me the honest opinion regardless of the cost than spend $25k on something that will work but isn't the best option for us long-term.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Looking to purchase house. Chimney has leaked it the past but has been fixed. Does this look like proper flashing?

Just had this roof dryer vent installed from second floor laundry, probably only 2-3 feet from the base in the attached pics to the roof. Just had a heavy rainstorm and noticed a small slow leak coming through the little crease in the metal pipe. I'm assuming this isn't normal. Any idea what this could be? Obviously going to reach back out to installer in the morning and ask to come out and reinspect/fix

The roof has 3 tab 20yr shingles with dimensions: H-36 W-12.25 exposure-5.125. The specific manufacturer no longer makes those shingles and it is “do not mix” with any of its current products. The insurance company says to replace the covered slope with a different brand with the same dimensions however I can’t find any available shingles with those dimensions. Is there a way “short of an ITEL report” to check whether or not any shingles with those dimensions are available or not anywhere? And if a shingle with those dimensions are not available can the insurance company tell us to just use a shingle of a different dimension up to the ridges?

I’m seeing some new homes made by DRH nearby with unusual damage. In particular, rows of something like six shingles, all on the same side of the dormer on the same spot on the roof, seemingly folded up, by a nail pop or otherwise. I’m gonna guess it’s manufacturer defect or install error, but before I inform the homeowners of their damage and that insurance won’t give a shit, I feel like I should have some damn idea what I’m looking at.