I run into the weirdest shit some times.

2015 Honda Accord. Push to start. Vehicle is a repo so no history, nothing known about it.

I go check, push the button, I just get the beep, no message of key not found.

Ok cool, key is not in the car.

Generate an Autel, grab my smart pro, I press the unlock button, just a dumb habit, and it works.

The fuck?

Ok. Let's see if it starts for some reason. Nope.

Try to program the key, force the ignition on, registration failed "check that only one un-registered key is in the vehicle"

Ok. Remove generated key from car. Try to start, nothing, no message. Where the fuck is the key?!

Go on to programming with the key outside the vehicle. Same message.

I don't see any aftermarket alarms, nothing.

I'm going home.

Hey ,brothers and sisters, so today I was doing a 2023 dodge charger Gt. I was able to pull the pin code but then when I tried programming the new fob it told me incorrect pin. Has this ever happened to you? I tried 2 different programmers and still the same message. I am a nastf VSP. I could buy the pin but I feel like its going to be the same one my programmer pulled.

Which lock is this- best answer I have is Lockwood onyx or Doric ds25 located Melbourne Australia.

Measurements
Height 17cm
Width 3.2 cm

Distance between mounting points is 12 cm

After market ignition. Pin is in the back so I can only fit small tools behind it

I own a bowling pro shop and I am considering using a set of old bowling lockers outside the shop as parcel lockers. The idea is that customers can pick up their orders outside of my regular business hours.

I would like for this solution to be electronic so the combination can be unique each time the locker is used, but this doesn't have to be as complex as a Parcel Pending type of locker with a kiosk and touch screen. Is there a solution that replaces a typical locker combination lock with an electronic lock that is WiFi enabled? Hopefully its not too much trouble than what its worth.

Image below is not mine, but they are a similar style to this.

I have a sealey premier toolbox which has a central locking / drawer linkage system for the top and the bottom box. I had two of the same locks but someone changed out one of the locks so I only have one box that I can open.

I have tried looking for new locks that will work but due to the square spindle/thread on the end of the sealey locks I’m struggling to find something that will work.

Any ideas?

Just rekeyed my new house and replaced a cylinder lock. So I don't have a use for the old keys, some key rings, and the old cylinder lock.

What's the best way to get rid of or dispose of these?

Hey, folks. I’m looking for options to replace this keyhole-only lock on the gate to my new house with one that includes a lever handle mechanism. However, our local hardware store didn’t have anything like that for a 1” width (needed to be 1.75”) and 2.25” backset gate.

Ideally, we want a lever-style handle, locking on the outside or both sides, oil rubbed bronze or black color. What’s out there for us? Thanks!

Darn sargent handles will NOT take a standard KIK cylinder. The sargent cylinder is smaller in diameter (not just the face) and the standard kik won't even slide in. Is there a C kik available in this cursed sargent size?

I don't usually ask questions here, mostly only comment where I have something useful to contribute as I'm not a locksmith in the professional sense, but I know a ton more than the average person, I'm familiar with SFIC, Schlage LFIC, Best, etc, but this is one I was hoping someone could offer some way to get through this without getting all ham fisted. I could probably drill it or use something substantial to destroy the brass wafers and get it turning, but I'd rather not do that if there's another way.

I have the key for it, and when I had it off a year or two ago to replace the cylinder to match the C145 keyway I put in the rest of the building, I didn't have a problem getting it off or back on, but apparently, something has happened since then.

When I look down the keyway, it looks like the last wafer has shifted so it's blocking the keyway, making it impossible to fully insert the key. No idea how/when/why.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Either way, whether someone offers a suggestion that gets the key to work or I have to go all ham fisted on it, once I get it off, it'll get replaced.

Hey guys,
Im a new hire at a local municipality in the water department and one of my tasks is to lock up 9 separate park bathrooms everyday at 9pm. All of my daily water tasks can be done early in the morning but having to lock the restrooms makes it so my schedule is extremely inconvenient. On top of that I was given a keyring with a dozen keys that are copies of copies, some of which need some serious finessing to work. Is there a sort of smart deadbolt that would fit my needs to lock 18 restrooms remotely? Or one that could automatically lock at 9pm? I know this sort of thing is available for homeowners but I’m looking for something a little more industrial. My original idea was to just try to get them all keyed the same (seriously whose idea was this????) but I wanted to see if I could simplify this task even more. I’m the newest guy on the crew and there’s a lot of “well that’s how we’ve always done it” so I’m hoping to slowly introduce ideas that could make life easier. Thanks for any suggestions!

I need to replace some interior passage door knob sets. The house is currently a mix of Schlage and Baldwin sets, and you can feel the difference. The Baldwins feel solid and heavy. I know that Baldwin Reserve knobs come in fewer options than their Estate line, but if I can find a look and finish that I like among the Reserves, can I expect them to have the same quality/heft as the Estate models?

Wondering if anyone can advise, do I need a new lock or can it be permanently fixed?

Sometimes it works but when it stops working it won’t open

Hi everyone,
I’m looking to get a duplicate key made for a high-security lock that uses a magnetic key system. I own the lock and I’m looking for a legitimate way to have a spare key made.
If you’ve come across this type of lock before, I’d also appreciate any help identifying the brand or model.
Thanks in advance for any advice

I’m looking into auto locksmithing and I’m certain that im going to move forward at this point.

All I need to do is save the money for the equipment/tools.

I’d really appreciate any and all advice for someone getting into the trade.

Best practices, marketing advice, lead gen advice, etc.

Any comment is appreciated. Thank you!

I’m interested in a smart lock mostly for keypad access and temporary codes for family or guests. The convenience sounds great. The idea of standing outside with dead batteries and a phone at 2% does not.

The lock would go on a normal residential deadbolt. I want a physical key backup, clear low-battery warnings, reliable manual locking from inside, and a keypad that doesn’t become useless in rain or cold. Remote access would be nice, but I’m not willing to trade away basic mechanical security for it.

I’ve seen people recommend Schlage Encode, Yale Assure, Kwikset, August, and various Z-Wave models. Then someone else says the entire brand is garbage, so that’s been helpful.

What are the best smart locks from a locksmith’s point of view? Which failures have you actually seen in the field: battery compartments, alignment, motors, connectivity, weak exterior hardware, or something else? And what would you install on your own front door?

I work for a company for three years in Texas as a 1099 employee making 30 to 35% per job now he’s telling us we’re gonna be reclassified as W-2 employees and a deduction pay to back to 30%. Is this something that is fair or should I get a Lawyer and Sue?

Hey all. My condo has a gate with the lock box having odd proportions and being a bit recessed.

It’s a bit rusty right now and I’ll be treating for that and painting it. I want a keypad lock that is waterproof. I can either delete the deadbolt hole or use a keyed deadbolt and a regular handle.

I understand that you can currently put your hand through the wire but I’ll be putting expanded steel on the back side to make the holes too small. I’d prefer not do deal with fabrication of a new box(?) for the lockset. I’m willing to buy quality

(It’s painted black to prevent rust while waiting for the proper paint materials to get delivered)

Unfortunately, the vertical tubing is thicker than the box so there can’t be a large lock body sticking up or down

Hello,looking for a key that will fit this keyway if anyone recognizes it I would be grateful.

Thanks!

I bought this lock, the body is flush against the door and a bit was chiseled off for the corner, but for some reason it doesn't open/close when the connector is in? The connecting bar has had 3/4 notches removed to make it shorter but that hasn't helped. Neither keys or the lock handle work when the bars inside. Am I missing something?