When people talk about composting, turning the pile is often treated as a simple routine: mix the material, add some air, and let it continue decomposing.

But once the compost pile becomes large, the situation gets much more complicated.

A large compost windrow can look perfectly normal from the outside while very different conditions are developing inside. The center may be hot and wet, some sections may become compacted, and other areas may be much drier than the rest of the pile.

This is why turning becomes an important part of large-scale composting.

For a small backyard pile, a garden fork is usually enough. But when you're dealing with long windrows containing large amounts of manure, food waste, agricultural residues or other organic materials, manually turning everything becomes much more difficult.

So what is actually happening when a large compost pile is turned?

Why Does Compost Need to Be Turned?

The most obvious answer is oxygen.

Aerobic microorganisms need oxygen to break down organic matter efficiently. As decomposition continues, these microorganisms consume oxygen and produce heat. If the material becomes too compact or stays wet for too long, air movement through the pile can become restricted.

However, turning is not simply a way of “adding oxygen.”

It also changes the physical structure of the pile.

When a windrow is turned, material from the inside is brought toward the outside, while material from the outer layer is moved back into the main body of the pile. This helps redistribute moisture, temperature and partially decomposed material.

A large compost pile is rarely uniform from top to bottom.

The center may be much hotter than the surface. Some sections may contain more moisture, while other sections may already be relatively dry. Turning helps bring these different areas together.

That's one reason mechanical turning can have such a significant effect on a large composting operation.

What Happens Inside a Large Compost Windrow?

A compost pile is basically a constantly changing biological environment.

Microorganisms break down organic matter and release heat. Water moves through the material. Oxygen is consumed and replenished. As the organic matter changes, the physical structure of the pile changes as well.

At the beginning of the process, some materials can be relatively bulky and loose. As decomposition progresses, particles may become smaller and the material can settle.

If the pile becomes too dense, air movement can become more difficult.

This is particularly noticeable with materials that contain a lot of moisture.

Fresh manure and food waste, for example, can be difficult to aerate when they become compacted. The spaces between particles become smaller, and water can occupy some of the spaces where air would otherwise move.

Turning breaks up these compacted areas and mixes the material again.

It doesn't solve every composting problem by itself, but it can help restore a more favorable physical structure.

What Happens If a Compost Windrow Is Not Turned Properly?

Not every compost pile needs to be turned constantly. The right management depends on the raw materials, moisture, pile dimensions, climate and composting method.

But if a large windrow becomes poorly aerated or unevenly mixed, several problems can develop.

Oxygen Becomes Uneven

The outside of a windrow naturally has contact with the surrounding air.

The interior is different.

As microorganisms consume oxygen and the material settles, some internal sections can become less aerated than others.

This doesn't necessarily mean that the entire pile becomes anaerobic. More often, different zones develop different conditions.

Turning brings those internal areas back into contact with air and helps break up compacted material.

Moisture Becomes Uneven

Moisture is another major consideration.

A windrow can contain areas that are too wet and other areas that are comparatively dry. When these areas remain separated, decomposition may progress at different rates.

Turning mixes them together.

For example, wetter material from the center can be mixed with drier material closer to the surface. This doesn't mean that turning alone will remove excess water, but it can improve the overall distribution of moisture throughout the windrow.

This becomes especially important when working with high-moisture organic waste.

Temperature Can Vary

Temperature is one of the easiest ways to see that a large compost pile isn't uniform.

The center of a windrow may become significantly hotter than the outside because microbial activity is concentrated in the interior.

When the windrow is turned, some of this hot material is moved outward while cooler material is brought into the active zone.

This helps expose different portions of the material to different stages of the composting environment.

Decomposition Can Become Uneven

If you open a large compost pile, you may find that some material is already dark and crumbly while other material still looks relatively fresh.

This is not necessarily a sign that the whole composting process has failed.

Different materials naturally decompose at different rates.

Turning helps redistribute them so that material that has decomposed less can continue to receive favorable conditions.

Is Compost Turning Only About Aeration?

I don't think so.

Aeration is one of the main reasons for turning, but the effect is broader than simply introducing oxygen.

A turning operation can simultaneously influence:

• Air distribution
• Moisture distribution
• Temperature distribution
• Material mixing
• Particle structure
• Decomposition uniformity

This is why the physical action of the turning machine matters.

The goal isn't simply to move the compost.

The goal is to change the conditions inside the windrow so that decomposition can continue more consistently.

Of course, the result depends heavily on the material being composted.

A dry mixture of leaves and agricultural residues behaves very differently from wet food waste or fresh livestock manure. The same turning approach may not produce exactly the same result for every material.

When Does Manual Turning Become Impractical?

For a small compost pile, manual turning is perfectly reasonable.

You can use a fork or shovel, and you can usually see and manage the entire pile.

But imagine a long windrow containing hundreds of tons of organic material.

At that point, the question isn't whether the material can physically be turned. The question becomes whether there is a practical way to turn it efficiently and consistently.

Manual labor becomes increasingly demanding as the volume grows.

There is also the issue of consistency.

A large windrow can be several meters wide and extend for a considerable distance. Turning every section manually would require significant time and labor, and maintaining the same turning quality throughout the entire windrow would be difficult.

This is where mechanical compost turning becomes useful.

How Does a Crawler Compost Turner Work?

A crawler compost turner is designed to travel along the compost windrow while continuously turning and mixing the material.

The basic principle is fairly simple.

As the machine moves forward, its turning mechanism reaches into the windrow and lifts, agitates and redistributes the compost material.

Material from deeper inside the windrow is brought upward and outward, while material from other sections is mixed back into the pile.

At the same time, the turning action loosens compacted material and changes the structure of the windrow.

The crawler system allows the machine to move along the windrow rather than requiring the material to be handled section by section.

This is particularly useful for large composting sites where windrows can extend a long distance.

What Does Mechanical Compost Turning Look Like?

The video accompanying this post shows a crawler compost turner working along a compost windrow.

What I find interesting about watching the process is that the machine isn't simply pushing the pile forward.

The turning mechanism continuously reaches into the windrow, lifts and mixes the material, and redistributes it as the machine travels.

You can see how material that was previously inside the pile becomes exposed during the turning process.

For a large composting operation, this continuous movement is one of the main advantages of mechanical turning.

Instead of manually moving individual sections of compost, the machine can travel along the windrow and process the material continuously.

Of course, the machine itself isn't a replacement for good compost management.

Moisture still matters. The initial mixture still matters. Windrow dimensions still matter. Temperature and decomposition need to be monitored as well.

A turning machine is simply one part of the overall composting process.

What Materials Can Be Turned Mechanically?

Mechanical turning can be used with many types of organic materials, but the characteristics of those materials make a big difference.

Some common examples include:

Livestock Manure

Manure can contain significant amounts of moisture, especially when it is freshly collected. Proper mixing and aeration can therefore be important during composting.

Food Waste

Food waste can have high moisture content and can become compacted relatively easily. Managing structure and aeration can be particularly important when processing large quantities.

Agricultural Residues

Crop residues, straw and other agricultural materials can provide more structure, although their particle size and moisture content can vary considerably.

Green Waste

Leaves, grass, branches and other green waste may have very different physical characteristics depending on the season and how the material has been processed.

This is why I wouldn't say that there is one universal turning schedule or one machine configuration that works equally well for every composting operation.

The material has to be considered first.

How Often Should a Large Compost Pile Be Turned?

This is probably one of the most common questions about compost turning, but there isn't a single number that works for every situation.

You will often see recommendations such as turning every few days, but the actual interval depends on what is happening inside the windrow.

Temperature is one useful indicator.

Moisture is another.

The physical structure of the material also matters. If the windrow is becoming compacted or certain areas are staying excessively wet, additional turning may be necessary.

At the same time, turning more frequently isn't automatically better.

Mechanical turning requires energy and operating time, so there is little value in turning the material repeatedly if the compost already has adequate aeration and structure.

For larger operations, it makes more sense to monitor the condition of the compost and adjust the turning schedule accordingly.

What Should You Consider Before Using a Compost Turner?

If you're considering mechanical turning for a larger composting operation, the machine's capacity is only one part of the decision.

The first thing I'd look at is the material.

Is it mostly manure? Food waste? Agricultural residue? Green waste? Or a mixture?

Then consider the moisture content and physical structure.

After that, look at the windrow dimensions.

The width and height of the windrow need to be compatible with the working dimensions of the turning equipment.

Throughput is another major factor.

An operation processing a few tons per day has very different requirements from a commercial composting site processing hundreds of tons per day.

Ground conditions and site layout also matter. A machine that works well on one composting site may not be the ideal choice for another site with different working conditions.

In my view, choosing a compost turner should start with the composting process itself rather than simply starting with the machine.

Turning Is Really About Managing the Composting Environment

A large compost windrow may look simple from the outside, but there is a surprisingly complex environment inside it.

Microorganisms need oxygen.

Moisture needs to be managed.

Heat needs to develop and move through the material.

Different sections of the windrow need opportunities to experience suitable composting conditions.

Turning helps bring these factors back into balance.

For a small backyard pile, a fork may be all that's necessary.

For a large commercial windrow, mechanical turning can make the process much more practical by continuously mixing and aerating large volumes of material.

The interesting part isn't really the machine itself.

It's what the machine is doing to the composting environment.

I'm curious how other people here handle this.

For smaller piles, manual turning is obviously still practical, but where do you think the tipping point is between manual turning and using a dedicated compost turner?

And for anyone working with food waste, manure or agricultural residues, what has been the biggest challenge for you: moisture, aeration, temperature, odor, or something else?

#composting #compost #organicwaste #compostturning #windrowcomposting##manureprocessing #fertilizerproduction #LANEMachinery

Hi there, I've been composting for the past couple of years but am still working on an ideal setup.

This past year, I ended up with more leaves than I had room for storing, and ended up using many of them as mulch on different beds. By the time the following summer rolled around, I had run out of leaves. I still needed browns for composting, and ended up using shredded cardboard.

My question is, would it make sense/work if I added the excess leaves to my garden in fall, then over winter just added my greens directly on top? (In different areas each time, of course, so it spread evenly.) I understand it wouldnt have a top layer of browns. How big of a deal would this be? Would I end up with halfway decent compost by springtime?

Any input appreciated. Ty

It was always either too dry or slimy, and stinky. This had a nice earthly smell (I guess it's soil that actually smells like compost). Topped my plants with some right away.

picked up an old wooden crate at a thrift run a few weeks back and put together a rough twobin setup that lives on the balcony. not pretty but functional. the issue is i'm getting decent breakdown on kitchen scraps but anything woody or cardboardheavy just sits there longer than i'd like. space is limited so i can't let it go six months and forget it.

the scraps situation is steady since i'm hauling fruit odds and ends home from the classroom most weeks. the ratio thing is what i keep secondguessing. i get a good pile going and then it stalls and i don't know if it's moisture, surface area, or just the wooden walls not holding heat the way a tumbler would.

curious what people have found actually speeds things up in a noninsulated bin sitting outside through ohio winters and cool springs. i turn it, i keep it damp but not wet, i chop stuff up before it goes in. still feels like it's moving slower than it should given the input volume. wondering if the wood itself is pulling moisture out or if that's a nonissue and i should be looking at something else.

Alt titles: outdoor wooden bin on a balcony, what actually moves the process along | small twobin setup stalling out, not sure if it's the wood | balcony compost bin in ohio, getting consistent breakdown without much space

Hi all,

I’m working on an animal sanctuary and we have a LOT….& I mean a LOT of animal waste. We care for many small critters that use woodchip bedding (aspen). It’s very rare that greens wind up in the bins because everybody eats something!

I know this doesn’t make for good, useable compost, but I’m wondering what I’m doing wrong or what I can do better to make this stuff break down quicker. We have a compost area on the property that fills up quickly and seemingly takes forever to break down. Any advice? Thanks so much.

EDIT: the wood chips take up a majority of the pile

I've just found a huge pile on some land at work: probably 10'x10', and around 3' high. It was really dry and incredibly fine in texture.

I sieved it, and all that was in there seemed organic. Just twigs and the occasional leaf and root, as in the second picture. I added some water to what I sifted, but it's so fine it doesn't clump like the other compost I've made. It's incredibly dark, and the texture doesn't seem like the soil around here.

Is there some way to test which it is? I've either found an abundance of black gold, or a huge heap of topsoil.

I have easy access to horse manure through a friend. But I’ve heard it can be weedy. I can get cow manure, but I have to ask and idk how friendly he is about it, being a large dairy. I hunt the dairy in the Fall.

My compost needs a ton of green and nitrogen and on top of that, organic fertilizer prices have doubled, so I’d like to live off compost as much as possible.

My neighbor has a blueberry / raspberry farm and regularly (twice a week probably) delivers me his discard product.

Is the sugar content of this fruit too much for a pile of this size? Do i mix in a load of woodchips or just cover it and wait it out?

What do you recommend or is it too far gone? Thank you!

Which ones look better to you guys?

​

Phase 1: Separated Soaking & Straining

Soak the Indian corn: Place the corn kernels in water and let them soak overnight.

And /or

Soak the white rice: Place the white rice in a separate container of water and let it sit for 30 minutes.

Strain each separately: Pour each grain through a mesh strainer, keeping the corn water and the rice water completely separate.

Phase 2: Setting Up the Liquid Culture

Cover the liquid containers: Cover your separate buckets of starchy soaking water with a paper towel.

Let the smell develop: Place them in your room or basement workspace to sit undisturbed until the proper fermenting smell develops.

Phase 3: Processing the Remaining Grains

Cook leftovers al dente: Take the remaining soaked corn and rice grains and cook them until they are just al dente.

Cool completely: Remove the cooked grains from the heat and let them cool down entirely before you eventually take them out to feed the garden fungi. Next step coming soon

Started composting this summer's garden waste, my second time doing this. I've dug up a whole lot of sod (80% weeds lol) and old perennials in spring and early summer, also just done s bunch of basic weeding on the allotment. Always dried everything out a little and then shook the soil off, and stored the stuff in a wire mesh frame where it just dried up into this brittle gray brown mass. It's incredible how much garden waste I could store in that small frame when it was properly wilted and dry.

A few days ago I started piling it up, watering it, and tearing up wet cardboard for layers. Not even small pieces, perhaps the size of my hand. Just a quick soak and then let them dry a bit, I think that's easiest to tear by hand. Also twigs. The pile started heating up immediately. I'm in Finland and the ambient temperetire has been between 10 and 20°c, most of the time it's cloudy or rainy. Autumn coming.

I think it was closer to 2 cubic meters at start but has already shrunk some though still bigger than a cubic metre. I'll start turning tomorrow. Planning to add more stuff a few times next week but after that I'll just water and turn. I have a couple of full bokashi buckets too and more cardboard.

So if anyone asks if dried up garden waste is brown or green, I think it's pretty safe to say it's a green.

(Oh, it also has it's own instagram, my friends demanded it lol https://www.instagram.com/p/Dc0Zt3MjISf/?igsi=dXoxMHBteWFhOW5o )

Hey yall! i bought this moss recently for a terrarium but it smells absolutely heinous after i soak or rinse it, like the inside of a dirty fish tank. 🤢 even dried it's not great. i was going to toss it, but since it's just moss it should be safe to compost right? i'm assuming it got anaerobic at some point in the bag or something, but it's pretty gnarly

I'm considering getting a quality plug in composter. (Not sure if saying which model is allowed, but I'm looking at a $1000 unit). Please share any and all thoughts about them. I'm on the fence and don't know too much about them. managing a pile is a little challenge for me physically (not impossible) and pests are an issue. Thanks guys. Stay safe out there.

For my job, I travel to loads of assisted living and nursing home facilities. I saw the lawn care team hauling off loads of trimmings (I think it was big leafy stuff at the time) as I was going into one such facility, and it crossed my mind that I might have a foot in the door and could approach someone about taking it off their hands.

But then I realized that it might be filled with chemicals. I’m not in the business, so I don’t know what to expect. Does anyone here have any expectations of whether this would be a safe source of organic materials for compost?

Hey everyone,

I’ve really enjoyed this community and learned and ton so thank you all.

By chance, has anyone had luck with the harbor freight shredders for small branches etc?

Hello, I recently started as a compost manager for a community compost site, our location hosts regular events that include food vendors and we're regularly asked why we allow single use plastics to be used and discarded here when there are "compostable" alternatives.

I put compostable in quotes because I've had very little luck in my backyard compost breaking down wooden cutlery, and I worry about green capitalists selling half baked solutions to people and organizations that mean well.

This company reached out to us and asked for a meeting to discuss supplying us with their compostable materials and I've been tasked with researching their validity, in addition to managing the compost that these materials would end up in if the deal went through, so Id like to ask if anyone has experience with Emerald Ecovations or a similar vendor.

Thanks in advance!

كانوا على السطح غالباً لأن الحرارة ممكن ارتفعت وأيضاً لأكل بودرة قشور البيض والدقيق اللذان وضعتهما لهم

"الكمية السوداء كانت عبارة عن كرتون وورق شجر ومواد عضوية تحولت لسماد غني في شهور بسيطة مشاهدة هذه العملية شيء مذهل للعقل سبحان الله"

ونعم هذه بذرة تمر نبتت في السماد

لاحظت بكتيريا سماد الدود تساعد في انبات البذور الأكثر قسوة مثل نواة التمر والأفوكادو بشكل اسرع

I pulled these from my old bin to start a new bin but they don’t look right.. are there two different wormies here?