I’ve checked this thing every way I have. Spirit levels show good, Arisaka leveling tool is dead flat on the bottom, plumb bob and light looks good. I tightened all screws evenly one turn at a time in an X and step torqued them the same but for some reason on 8X the reticle looks coated horizontally to me. I think I’m in my head at this point but I’d love some input from someone who hasn’t been staring at this for a couple hours lol.

Firearm I'm looking at purchasing, unsure if the pitting is too severe to be able to fix it or not.

It’s my first 870 and just wanted to make sure if this is normal? Does any one else have these track marks? My concern is cracking in the future. Thanks..

I picked up a new maverick 88 a month ago. I used it for clays and dove - putting roughly 300-400 rounds through it. The action was rough the day I picked it up and has been rough since then, however I chalked it up to being a cheaper firearm until seeing the metal shards in the action on cleaning this time. Is this normal break in or is the action having an issue?

This is a JPG image. You may right-click/save-as if you find it helpful.

Regards.

Had some issues losing torque in Vortex Pro Ring bases (spec requires 30 in/lbs). Only using a .223 bolt, but with a ~2 lb Viper PST. Wondering if the weight is contributing to the problem.

I haven't degreased anything yet, but everything honestly looked/felt great out of the package.

30 in/lbs without some type of Loctite doesn't seem like it's going to cut it. I rather just use a dab and torque to specs since there is no risk of damaging the optic since only the rail is involved.

Does Loctite really lubricate and throw torque off that much to worry? Interestingly enough, I read the following of the Mil-spec versions of 222MS and 242... Apparently, purple 222MS specifically, and blue 242 are better at "retaining accurate clamping force", can anyone attest to this? Does this allow one to use regular specs?

I am waiting on word back from Vortex but am still wondering if it be safe to use 222MS or 242 on the scope base screws to get this under control. (I will have to say I am leaning towards blue 242)

Fortunately, the ring tops haven't caused any issues, knock on wood lol

Any input would be appreciated.

I’m curious on what you guys think of a 4570 conversion for a martini Henry - I really like the look and the action and 4570 already what I shoot a lot with other rifles. - i’m thinking of receiver/action made for black powder shooting like a high wall or sharps.
I’m curious how plausible would a 45-70 conversion be on an older martini Henry in .577/450 . They are both rimmed cartridges and the bore and bullet diameter are somewhat close ( .458 - 455) - biggest issue is the case design obviously.

What would go into something like this?

I bought a Beretta A300 Ultima Patrol back in May. I took it to the range and brought it back to clean it. I dropped the little piston that goes in the gas system on the barrel. When I tried putting it back on, it didn’t go smoothly at all. I took a look and the piston has the slightest distortion, like it’s not perfectly round anymore. It’s hardly noticeable, but it’s there and it’s interfering with the barrel passing over the mag tube. I took it my local FFL and they successfully got it back together and said I should be good to go, but that maybe I should try to get a replacement from beretta. I’m working on that, but in the meantime do you think it’s going to cause me a problem?

Anyone know how to remove the JP silent capture spring from an AR 15 buffer tube? I’ve tried for over an hour and it’s stuck. There’s nothing to get any purchase on to pull it out either.

Edit: I am talking specifically about the JP silent capture buffer system, not a traditional spring and weight. It is made to lock into the buffer tube without using the detent.

Got tired of stealing tools from various tool boxes etc every time I needed to torque down a new optic or disassemble a firearm. Metal tool box and it looks like I still have a 3rd drawer free and a bit of space at the top. What tools am I missing here? Working on pretty basic things, glock/Sig, 10/22, AR's etc.

I have a savage axis that is extremely difficult to unlock when the striker is cocked. It’s perfectly smooth until the last bit of upwards travel of the bolt knob. When it gets to that last lil bit i almost have to hit the bolt handle to get it to unlock. I find that it’s smoother when the striker is down. Is there anything I can do to help with this?

What is the purpose of this small lever/ latch on the side of the star 70B bolt. I see that it can be depressed by the charging rod, but what keeps it from popping into the pocket on the tube while firing? Any info would be appreciated

Hello!

Apologies if this is the wrong sub. I was out shooting dove earlier and my gun jammed up. Essentially, the bolt is stuck open (see below).

I've taken the barrel and grip off of it, didn't notice any jams or stuck shells. Pressing the bolt release button does nothing. Any advice?

I bought a new Taurus 856 UL and it has a sort of jingling noise when I shake it or wave it around (I haven't been doing that in an unsafe way, I noticed it when I pulled it out to try a speedloader I bought)

I have a video, but that post type isn't allowed here

Its the first modern DA revolver I've owned, is that normal or should I send it in to Taurus?

I've had this rifle for some time and im finally getting around to adressing an issue l've had since purchase and I just need some verification from someone with a little more experience in the KAR.

The front barrel band and bayonet lug loosen while firing. I know there needs to be a pin to hold the bavonet lug in place and the front band, as far as I've found, is usually retained through the use of a double sided band retaining spring that hold both front and rear bands in place.

However this rifle doesn't have nor has the provision for a double ended spring. So would the bayonet lug pin also secure the front band? Would the front band need to have 2 holes so the pin sits flush or just one (as it only has one) and the pin would sit proud?

So I got this H&R 922 from a local gun show for $20! I’m very excited about getting it working again the trigger and hammer seem to work just fine but obviously I’m missing the cylinder and rod. Do yall have any tips and tricks to the trade? Also the only website I’ve found with the cylinders is sold out. If you have any resources for some please let me know. Side note the serial number starts with an L putting this around 1949-1951 I believe.

I own a Iver Johnson 50 year anniversary M1 Carbine and the bolt cracked on me and the extractor is no more. I was wondering if the bolt is interchangeable with any other GI bolt?

I feel the line slightly get caught w my nail , tho when I see the barrel hinge the line doesn’t continue, I recently got it gifted so I’m not to sure of its maintenance condition.
(Any advice)