Apparently for my car, 2018 Volvo S90 Momentum, you don’t change the transmission fluid. That’s according to the Volvo dealership. I’m no mechanic but don’t all fluids break down and that’s why they need to be changed?

Supposedly the fluid will last the lifetime of the transmission. But isn’t that true of all transmission fluids? If you don’t change the transmission fluid in a vehicle, the transmission will eventually slip and go bad, i.e. the fluid lasted the lifetime of the transmission.

Hi, my truck (1989 dodge ramcharger royal se 318) revs up super loud (high idle) and I read online that it might be the vacuum somewhere. I looked under the hood and noticed this piece missing (looks like a cap or sensor goes there) and just need to know what it’s called and what it does so I can replace it

If y’all notice anything else please tell me, first time restoring a vehicle and any advice would be greatly appreciated

Hello,

I inherited this car from my cousin in 2020 after graduating college.

For the past 2 weeks when starting my car it makes this noise. After a few minutes when driving, it stops and my car sounds normal. The noise seems to be getting louder.

The check engine light is not on and I keep up on my 5,000 oil change and take it to the dealership because they have been able to find past issues with my car (CV boot replacement, brake pads).

A couple of years ago, they did tell me I have a cracked dog bone mount but to not worry because there's other items holding down the engine and it is older with a lot of miles on it. They have told me that my oil pan is dripping but to just make sure I monitor the oil. After driving to my work, in the parking lot I did just check the oil. It is slightly above the first line even though I just got an oil change 1000 miles ago.

Do you think this is an oil issue or is this a timing belt issue? I really don't know what the noise is. Thank you in advance!

Good morning all, I have a 2006 Chevy express 2500 with the 4.8 L. One of the hydraulic lines for the brake/steering system has a pressure sensor that is mounted to it that is not used in this year model and it is leaking through the plug. I've seen this with oil pressure sensors but not a brake pressure sensor, I assume the construction is similar. Regardless the vehicle is stuck somewhere and I'm going to have to go do a field repair, the switch seems to be expensive and needs to be ordered so I was hoping that the thread it uses some standard pipe thread or similar and I can just go get something to plug it for the time being.

The issue is that I am not by the van and it is not disassembled and I'd like to avoid having to go disassemble it and then go to a parts store or hardware store. I am really hoping that somebody here happens to know offhand what thread the sensor might have so that I could get a plug for it ahead of time. Searching on the Internet was not helpful.

Thank you

So this port does not work, would this be a fuse issue. The other one in my car works fine.

Hi guys, I really need yours help with my car. My tC was being crashed by someone’s backup. And it looks like the AC still have the win but it’s not cold/hot anymore. There might be a leak in the AC system. One of the light have been broken. Please give me some advice about what I have to check. Currently broke so I don’t hvae money for shop. Thanks ya all.

01 Lexus ES300. Trying to replace my pcv valve. Been trying to get this out since yesterday. Ive tried prying it up, breaking the rubber grommet under it, wiggling it a bunch, not sure how to get it out. I used some pliers and just tried pulling it up with all my strength and it snapped it half.

I was leaving work this afternoon and I heard two loud pops and my car started making this loud noise. When I got home, try to diagnose it myself and found the culprit. Took the best picture I could. less

I'm pretty sure that my cowl drain got clogged or something crawled up there because there is a HORRIBLE smell whenever I turn the air on and even just with the windows down the smell wafts into the cabin. Took it to a shop and got quoted about 3000 that I dont have but im literally gagging while driving. I've seen a few things saying to use foam cleaners while searching but I'm worried it would just push everything back even further and make it more expensive to get to.

I bought a 2013 Audi a3 tsfi 1.8 less than a week ago and now it has an oil leak. It seems to be coming from the oil pan, the engine is completely dry. It’s leaking a lot, leaving puddles of oil so I know I need to get it fixed soon, but I was wondering how bad is this for the car? How expensive should such a repair be?

I am considering purchasing a bidirectional scanner. I work on 2003–2011 Ford Panther-platform vehicles, including Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis and Lincoln Town Car.
What scanner can communicate with the following modules on these cars: PCM, ABS, RCM/SRS, LCM, EATC/HVAC, PATS, DDM and RASM.

Right now I’m needing to look into a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis, 2006 grand Marquis and a 2004 Lincoln town car with factory rear air suspension.
I need a scanner to perform the RASM self-test and active/bi-directional tests, commanding the compressor, vent solenoid and individual rear air-spring solenoids? Also read the rear height sensor live data and perform the ride-height calibration procedure?
I’m not sure if all bidirectional ones provide the exact vehicle year/model/module/function coverage some just say that the scanner has ‘full-system’ or ‘bi-directional’ capability. I’ve tried contacting manufacturers but either havent got a definitive answer or any answer at all. My budget in under $500. Thanks for your input.

Making this weird whining noise, please tell me what you think it could be. Driving alright. Makes noise when I start it. Thank you!

Any sort of advice would be greatly appreciated

2014 dodge journey

TLDR; it weakly tries to start while connected to jumper cables. Without jumper cables it has no power, not even cabin lights. Replacing the battery had no effect

Full story;

I drove it home from work without issue. The next morning it kept saying "key not detected" when I tried to start it even though both fobs were present, amd I could still use them to lock/ unlock the doors.

I tried starting it by pushing the push start with the fob itself which can get around fob issues, which briefly made the windshield wipers move (they were still on from the previous trip so I turned them off). And the fuse related to the wipers in the TIPM was rapidly clicking.

After this point the battery went down to nothing. No dash or cabin lights. I got cabin lights but no attempt to start even having it hooked up to jumper cables for 10 minutes. I got a new battery and replaced it. With the new battery, still no cabin lights or anything. Connected to cables, I get cabin lights and dash indicators like normal, but it only weakly tried to start.

I drive a 2015 Kia optima bought used about @ 30-35k miles. I’ve owned it going on 8 years, now at 85k and haven’t had any serious mechanical issues. I regularly change my oil roughly every 3-5k miles and change brakes and rotors when needed. I used to go to the shop for these but have been doing it myself the past year. Last oil change 6/26 I checked for play by trying to wobble at 12 & 6 , 3 & 9 o’clock on all wheels.. Nothing. And all my bushings I could see and boots seem ok.( stiff, no play & not leaking grease or cracking)
Note: I mostly have hand tools, but do know someone with automotive tools I’m sure they would lend. The car knowledge I do have comes from youtube. I’m looking to save money by learning to do what I can myself.

Im looking at putting up some $$ to do some work @ next oil change. Thinking of doing:
Spark plugs & coils
Struts/shocks all around
Coolant flush
Brake fluid flush

My question(s) is what else could I inspect and replace myself? Also things that might be worth having a shop look into? I know an owners manual has a “xx,xxx miles checklist” would it be best to follow that?

Basically when I unlock my car these lights turn on. They are not my headlights because when I drive at night they are both on. Its like a lower light thats on during the day? I dont know what they are called so I can buy a replacement bulb

Found this under my Fiat 500, Multijet Pop 2009, any idea what this is for?

Make and model : 2020 corolla LE.
This sound started… happens when i break sounds like somethings grinding or like scraping in a way…? Please help!

2013 Lexus ES 350

Been having trouble with my AC not blowing out much air at max speed, and hear this whirring noise when I turn the speed up. It will speed up and slow down the air flow randomly while driving.

I had my blower motor replaced 3 years ago when I was experiencing similar issues. This is why I’m thinking it may be my blower motor again, but I’m surprised I would need a new one after only 3 years. I’ve been consistently replacing my cabin air filter.

I’ve had two drives in the past few weeks where the AC would not start up at all for about 20 minutes into my drive, and then start blowing air.

Any help would be appreciated.

As the title says, only happens on cold start, oil levels good, drives normally afterwards, won’t do it after car only sits for a little bit. Lmk thanks!