If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Apparently for my car, 2018 Volvo S90 Momentum, you don’t change the transmission fluid. That’s according to the Volvo dealership. I’m no mechanic but don’t all fluids break down and that’s why they need to be changed?

Supposedly the fluid will last the lifetime of the transmission. But isn’t that true of all transmission fluids? If you don’t change the transmission fluid in a vehicle, the transmission will eventually slip and go bad, i.e. the fluid lasted the lifetime of the transmission.

2014 dodge journey

TLDR; it weakly tries to start while connected to jumper cables. Without jumper cables it has no power, not even cabin lights. Replacing the battery had no effect

Full story;

I drove it home from work without issue. The next morning it kept saying "key not detected" when I tried to start it even though both fobs were present, amd I could still use them to lock/ unlock the doors.

I tried starting it by pushing the push start with the fob itself which can get around fob issues, which briefly made the windshield wipers move (they were still on from the previous trip so I turned them off). And the fuse related to the wipers in the TIPM was rapidly clicking.

After this point the battery went down to nothing. No dash or cabin lights. I got cabin lights but no attempt to start even having it hooked up to jumper cables for 10 minutes. I got a new battery and replaced it. With the new battery, still no cabin lights or anything. Connected to cables, I get cabin lights and dash indicators like normal, but it only weakly tried to start.

Hi guys, I really need yours help with my car. My tC was being crashed by someone’s backup. And it looks like the AC still have the win but it’s not cold/hot anymore. There might be a leak in the AC system. One of the light have been broken. Please give me some advice about what I have to check. Currently broke so I don’t hvae money for shop. Thanks ya all.

I drive a 2015 Kia optima bought used about @ 30-35k miles. I’ve owned it going on 8 years, now at 85k and haven’t had any serious mechanical issues. I regularly change my oil roughly every 3-5k miles and change brakes and rotors when needed. I used to go to the shop for these but have been doing it myself the past year. Last oil change 6/26 I checked for play by trying to wobble at 12 & 6 , 3 & 9 o’clock on all wheels.. Nothing. And all my bushings I could see and boots seem ok.( stiff, no play & not leaking grease or cracking)
Note: I mostly have hand tools, but do know someone with automotive tools I’m sure they would lend. The car knowledge I do have comes from youtube. I’m looking to save money by learning to do what I can myself.

Im looking at putting up some $$ to do some work @ next oil change. Thinking of doing:
Spark plugs & coils
Struts/shocks all around
Coolant flush
Brake fluid flush

My question(s) is what else could I inspect and replace myself? Also things that might be worth having a shop look into? I know an owners manual has a “xx,xxx miles checklist” would it be best to follow that?

Basically when I unlock my car these lights turn on. They are not my headlights because when I drive at night they are both on. Its like a lower light thats on during the day? I dont know what they are called so I can buy a replacement bulb

Found this under my Fiat 500, Multijet Pop 2009, any idea what this is for?

Make and model : 2020 corolla LE.
This sound started… happens when i break sounds like somethings grinding or like scraping in a way…? Please help!

If relevant, the oil type is fully synthethic (5W30). The car was driven only in the city and short distances.

2013 Lexus ES 350

Been having trouble with my AC not blowing out much air at max speed, and hear this whirring noise when I turn the speed up. It will speed up and slow down the air flow randomly while driving.

I had my blower motor replaced 3 years ago when I was experiencing similar issues. This is why I’m thinking it may be my blower motor again, but I’m surprised I would need a new one after only 3 years. I’ve been consistently replacing my cabin air filter.

I’ve had two drives in the past few weeks where the AC would not start up at all for about 20 minutes into my drive, and then start blowing air.

Any help would be appreciated.

As the title says, only happens on cold start, oil levels good, drives normally afterwards, won’t do it after car only sits for a little bit. Lmk thanks!

2020 Tacoma with about 120,000 miles. This is the only code it had after i saw the check engine light

Hi, my truck (1989 dodge ramcharger royal se 318) revs up super loud (high idle) and I read online that it might be the vacuum somewhere. I looked under the hood and noticed this piece missing (looks like a cap or sensor goes there) and just need to know what it’s called and what it does so I can replace it

If y’all notice anything else please tell me, first time restoring a vehicle and any advice would be greatly appreciated

Hey guys. So I just installed a new passenger motor mount on my 2015 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder and it’s making this thud noise immediately when starting and clanking noise when going over holes in the road. It never made this noise when starting before installing the new motor mount. When going over holes it used to make a very loud bang noise, thats gone, but it still makes a clanking noise. Did I install the motor mount incorrectly? I asked chat gpt and it says, “Once you loosen, settle, and retorque the mount with the vehicle's full weight on the ground, it should take care of both the startup clunk and the noise over bumps”. Is this correct? Has anybody else dealt with this issue?

I’ve been taking my wife’s car into work for a little while now and for the past two weeks, it has been making this sound. I can hear it pretty clearly inside of the cab as well. It’s the loudest when I’m just sitting in park but when I rev up the rattling goes faster and then gets drowned out. I would like to know if I need to take this in or if this is pretty normal for this car. Thanks for any and all help!

This is somewhat of a long post so I'm sorry. I have googled as much as I possibly can and none of my friends who are car inclined know what's wrong.

So, one day, my car didn't auto stop/start. The next day, it wouldn't start at all. Tested the main battery. It's bad. A lot of what I read said you should also replace the aux battery at the same time. So I did. Both new batteries. Code disappears, stop/start function returns.

About a week later, car won't start again without being jumped. Once jumped, it's totally fine. Take it to O'Reilly's and the alternator tests bad. So I replace that. This fixes the problem for a few days and then it won't turn on again. I then replace the part that attaches to the negative terminal of the battery (some kind of monitoring sensor, just don't remember the name). It works again for a few days before it repeats. I replace the dual battery control module and the car runs fine for 2 weeks.

The auto stop/start function stops working. Then after about a week, it's not wanting to start again. From what I can find, it's sending 13 volts everywhere except the main battery. I pulled all the fuses along the fuse block on top of the battery and they all check out fine. But if I test the connection going from the DBCM to the battery, it's only pushing 10 volts. So it never recharges my starter battery enough to start the car. The car runs fine once it's jumped but I don't want to do that every time I start the car.

Does anyone have any ideas? I have replaced as much as I think I can and it just keeps having the same issue over and over. Please ask any questions for more info. I can provide pictures of the setup under the hood, what I'm voltage checking, whatever. I have run out of ideas and can't find any other viable solutions online so I'm hoping someone somewhere has run into this problem and can help me. Thank you!

01 Lexus ES300. Trying to replace my pcv valve. Been trying to get this out since yesterday. Ive tried prying it up, breaking the rubber grommet under it, wiggling it a bunch, not sure how to get it out. I used some pliers and just tried pulling it up with all my strength and it snapped it half.

I was leaving work this afternoon and I heard two loud pops and my car started making this loud noise. When I got home, try to diagnose it myself and found the culprit. Took the best picture I could. less

2011 GMC Acadia SLE AWD. Spark plugs changed and it had a bad injector so I replaced all 6 because I was in there. Reconnected everything. Did not get a new intake gasket. Car will not idle. I turned it on and it was surging between 5-600 rpm. Took everything off to make sure I didn’t mess up the old gasket or something weird I unplugged without noticing. Reconnected everything again torqued the intake down. Car will not run now.

I'm pretty sure that my cowl drain got clogged or something crawled up there because there is a HORRIBLE smell whenever I turn the air on and even just with the windows down the smell wafts into the cabin. Took it to a shop and got quoted about 3000 that I dont have but im literally gagging while driving. I've seen a few things saying to use foam cleaners while searching but I'm worried it would just push everything back even further and make it more expensive to get to.