I have a raspberry pi 5 8gb that I've had sitting around for a while and got it a new case, a canakit with an active cooling heatsink. On boot, I noticed that the fan wasn't spinning at all, and after some testing and a stress test I took the fan header off; looking at it with a magnifying lens I could see that one of the pins in the header had a sprue and the leftmost pin in the socket is bent to hell.

I can't bend it back properly, and I can't get the fan header to connect properly. I probably need to get a different fan for this to work, but how the hell can I get the pin back in the right shape?

I can bend it back to at least stand up straight with my tweezers, but it still has a buckle in it down below that that I can't do anything about. Is there some tool I can buy to fix this? I've never had to unbend pins before and Pis are so much more expensive now, I can't really replace it at the moment

Here's an image of the issue if that's at all helpful. Not sure how well I explained the problem

currently i’m using Pi 5 as a image signal processing for this FSD (not for full self driving, but “facial suspended display”).

basically my mac desktop screen goes to a HDMI capture board, converted to a CSI, and Pi process it and projects it to a LCD panel

the HDMI to CSI converter i’m using does not support beyond 1080P 60hz, so usable mac screen resolution are capped at 1080P.

with the zero copy pipeline the latency is pretty good.

(i took a pi working hard up close but don’t know how to post it below the youtube link…. sorry)

Made the enclosure in Tinkercad because I couldn’t find any existing models online for the Pimoroni 7-colour Inky. Then I found a Redditor on r/london who kindly 3D printed it for me.

The Pi connects to a server I run and checks every 10 seconds for newly uploaded photos to display.

It also has automatic Wi-Fi setup if it’s moved to a new network.

because all of the ones sold online suck.

A Pi drives a display. Three files: a Python server that fetches and merges data, an HTML dashboard, and a kiosk script.

Where the data comes from:

• Live temp/humidity — a Govee sensor on my house, not a forecast
• Nowcast strip (next 60 min) — Tomorrow.io's radar extrapolation (2kmx2km square from my address), updated every 5 min
• Hourly row + 5-day — Tomorrow.io's model forecast
• Wind and sunrise/sunset — Open-Meteo (sun times drive the day/night icons)

The nowcast bars encode two things at once: height is the probability of rain in that 5-minute window, color is the intensity on WMO bands — pale for light, deep blue for heavy.

I use it constantly.

Everything I'm seeing is from early June saying that availability should improve in the second half of the year, meanwhile here we are in September and we are back to 2023 era bullshit of people scalping a $15 computer board for $80 on eBay.

So yet again ALL my hobby projects that I've been holding off on are still on hold. My workshop is too hot to do anything in during summer so I was looking to start getting parts ordered for winter but straight up nothing makes sense at $80 for the Pi2W.

You can't convince me that a decade old low end SOC and 512MB of LPDDR2 is being sucked up by AI. What the actual fuck is going on?

I'm beginning to wonder if we are ever going to return to the pre-2017 era where electronics were just available at MSRP. Its been one shortage after another for going on a decade. First crypto, then crypto 2, then COVID, now AI. Its maddening as someone who's only hobby is electronics.

Hey everyone I just got the HighPi Pro 5S Case for Raspberry Pi 5 but it won’t fit. I think it might be due to the threads that stick out past the fan push pins as you can see in the diagram. Does anyone know if so can fit this setup?

Thanks

I wanted a glanceable status screen for my headless Pi 4 without a monitor or SSH-ing in, so I built Statusberry: a Python app that runs as a systemd service and drives a cheap 160x128 ST7735 SPI LCD (the common 1.77" 8-pin panel).

Why not an existing tool?
I went through the usual options first:
htop/btop/glances are great but live in a terminal, so they need an SSH session or a monitor; Netdata/Grafana-style dashboards look lovely but are heavy for a Pi whose only job is to sit there showing numbers; and the small ST7735 status scripts on GitHub were single-purpose with hardcoded layouts. I wanted something that boots with the Pi, drives a 160x128 SPI panel directly at 1 fps, and stays themeable — hence Statusberry. The config knobs also grew out of real panel quirks: rotation/offset, BGR color swap, color invert, and a lower SPI clock for glitchy boards.

What's on screen:

• CPU utilization with a 3-minute scrolling graph
• Up to 3 network interfaces as cards: state-colored icon, interface name, IP (ethernet first)
• Memory meter — full-width bar, goes orange above 85%, red above 95%
• Hostname + uptime
• A boot splash with a progress bar while the Pi boots, then it switches to the status screen automatically (no restart)

How it's made:

• Python 3 + psutil, renders at 1 fps so the Pi stays idle
• Panel driven in landscape via the Pimoroni `st7735` driver; wiring is the standard 8-pin SPI hookup (full pinout table in the README)
• Themes are YAML (colors, font sizes, SVG icons); a Pillow-only compiler validates everything, rasterizes the icons at 8x supersampling, and writes a compiled theme the runtime reads
• Installers for Windows (PowerShell) and Linux/WSL/macOS (bash) that either run a local emulator or deploy straight to the Pi over SSH; plus an in-situ installer for the Pi itself
• A pixel-exact emulator window means you can develop the whole thing on a laptop without the panel attached

AI note: I designed and architected it myself; AI tools helped with some boilerplate and debugging.

Repo with full build details, wiring table, and installers: https://github.com/kremonia/Statusberry

Happy to answer questions about the wiring, the theme pipeline, or the systemd setup!

These are Opae Ula shrimps and they are less than 10mm in size, the details you can see with the camera 3 is impressive.

The zero 2w seems to have no problem encoding 1080p stream to YouTube, while running a web control panel for LED and camera focus.

https://reddit.com/link/1w53kjp/video/oez43mhh72nh1/player

You can see the stream at https://www.youtube.com/@CashLo/live

When I run rpi-update on an rpi4b-2gb I get:

If you are unsure, test if your system boots with initramfs options disabled from config.txt
Would you like to proceed? (y/N)
Github API request failed with HTTP 422: https://api.github.com/repos/raspberrypi/rpi-firmware/commits/0

Respond of the link is

{
  "message": "No commit found for SHA: 0",
  "documentation_url": "https://docs.github.com/rest/commits/commits#get-a-commit",
  "status": "422"
}

What happened here and can you reproduce the bug?

Hey everyone! I recently got a CrowPi2 V2.0 and I’m trying to install my Raspberry Pi 4B into the Pi compartment.
I’m having trouble figuring out the correct screw size for securing the Raspberry Pi to the mounting posts inside the CrowPi2.
I initially tried M2.5 machine screws, since that’s what I kept seeing recommended for Raspberry Pi mounting hardware. The M2.5 screws fit through the mounting holes in the Raspberry Pi PCB, but they do NOT thread into the CrowPi2’s mounting posts. I haven’t forced them because I don’t want to damage the threads.
I’ve contacted Elecrow support and I’m also going to measure the mounting posts with a digital caliper, but I figured someone here may own a CrowPi2 and know the answer.
Does anyone know the exact factory screw specification used to mount a Raspberry Pi 4B inside the CrowPi2?
Diameter/thread pitch and length would be awesome.
My CrowPi2 is labeled CrowPi2V2.0-2408, in case different hardware revisions use different mounting hardware.
Thanks! 🔧

hi, i've been working on a project but i ran into an issue that just left me defeated, i tried to fix it on my own (mainly by adding things like dtparam=rgb666) but nothing seemed to work, so i have resorted to making this post. My issue is that a display i'm using (Waveshare 7 inch DPI LCD) either is stuck at a low color depth or that it somehow displays color entirely wrong, if you know how to fix it please tell me, sorry for any inconvenience (ps. i attached some photos to show the "color issues" the display has)

I’ve been using a glmt3000 for a few years, but recently it stopped getting the updates I needed. I also tried installing Xray Core & V2Ray/LuCI, but the RAM usage was getting close to 100%.

So I decided to build my own router using a Raspberry Pi 4 + OpenWrt.

The goal is to develop a better optimized Xray client + LuCI app, along with my own router management interface.

The Xray client is designed to support multiple protocols, including: VMess, VLESS, Trojan, Shadowsocks (SS).

So far, I’m really happy with the results!

Internet Performance

• Around 40-80 Mbps internet speed (Speed depends on my ISP)
• No anytime data package (currently using a Zoom/MS package tunnel through aka,ms sni)

Network Storage

I’m also sharing a SanDisk USB 3.2 Gen 1 drive over the network. I’m getting 200+ MB/s file transfer speeds over the network, which honestly surprised me!

Hardware

• Raspberry Pi 4 + SanDisk 16GB SD Card
• EDUP Wi-Fi adapter
• WaveLink 2.5G Ethernet adapter
• SanDisk USB 3.2 Gen 1 storage

Cooling: One thing I quickly learned, the Pi 4 definitely needs a cooler. Without a cooler, the Pi gets pretty toasty. During heavy downloads, the temperature can easily go over 70°C. So I added a cooler, and now it stays much cooler even under heavy network load.

Stability I’ve been running this setup for around 10 days, and it has been pretty solid so far. The longest continuous uptime I had was around 8 days, but then a power cut caused a reboot. Since then, it has been running continuously for about 2 days again without any issues.

For a DIY router setup, I’m honestly very happy with the performance and stability so far! Let’s see how far I can push this little Pi 4.

Due to my crazy and unpredictable schedule I was missing my peak starter times and bulk ferment schedules.

I spent the weekend building a raspberry pi robot that watches my starter or bulk ferment container and alerts me when my starter or dough is nearing completion.

After two days of testing and tweaking it seems to be working quite well!

It was a fun project to do and I hope that it helps me to be more on top of my sourdough.

Hi,

I'm building my own camera and I have a xenon flash module from a Braun Flash camera. I would like the flash to be triggered along with the camera via a Raspberry Pi. However, there are high voltages, transformers, etc., on the flash board, so I'm wondering how to do this safely and effectively without damaging the RPi and the camera.

I thought about using an OptoMOS in place of the contacts that were previously mechanically shorted to ionize the xenon, along with galvanic isolation for the power connection or a separate power supply, though I have very little space for this in the enclosure.

And here comes the second problem—space. Because I want to keep the dimensions compact, the components will be very close to each other. The question is, how do I isolate them from one another to avoid interference or electrical arcing? I thought about wrapping the entire board, including the charging and trigger transformers as well as the main capacitor, in Kapton tape, but I'm not sure if that will be enough. Also, how can I prevent signal interference?

This is my first project where high voltages and sensitive components will be packed so tightly together. I don't have enough expertise to just wire it up and be confident that nothing will break, so I'm looking for some advice to avoid a costly disaster.

I've attached photos of the flash circuit as well as the current enclosure design (the enclosure dimensions are 110x65x70mm).

I got a lot of great feedback from you and ran the speed comparison with more models and new optimizations both alone and with my Carwatch service running on the Pi at the same time.

The new speed champion is Ling 3.0-tiny at 9.6 tps! As a MoE model it is faster than smaller Gemma and Qwen models. People say it's punching above it's weight in intelligence - testing this now.

Gemma E2B is a solid tiny multimodal model at 7.7 tps, works well in my app. And Qwen 35B Q3 is still the leader in usable intelligence in this form factor, fitting tight in a 16GB Pi and getting close to 3 tps on a good day :)

Please note that small tps values still produce solid thinking and good answers, and not every use case requires an answer in seconds.

Decided to make a case out of legos for my Pi (4B). I am using a fan from an old Dell Powersupply. It is hooked to a USB port since my GPIO is hooked to a T-Cobbler. It has a detachable roof which also serves as an air guidance vent. The back is empty so I can use my USB ports and to let air escape rather than creating a trap. The fan is kept at an angle and is basically a blower cooling setup. It brought down the temps from 42 celsius to 35 celsius. And best part is that I was able to overclock the Pi because of this setup as well. It now runs at 2Ghz, overclocked RAM+GPU as well. Stays at a steady 40 on idle (with overclock)

Ever since I moved to an unjailbroken iphone from Android (and jailbroken iphone) i missed a couple of things. especially lack of full libusb. Couldn't connect a software defined radio to my phone, couldn't flash any phone with my phone, lost a very useful, versatile feature.

When my bag broke, i decided to also customize it a little bit on top of fixing. I thought it'd be cool to have something like a PCB hanging round, since it looks cool. But i remembered about my huge hassle with the iphone, lack of full USB, so i decided to fix both of those wants. I printed out a cover to the side with components, as to not destroy any, added it on a keychain, and left it on there. i also built an usbc-microusb adapter, so that i can USB connect it to my phone/battery bank.

It defaults to be a USB guest, emulating Ethernet, and when i manually set up addressing, with leaving router empty, i can connect to my pi while keeping 5g. Currently it's just a PoC, as so I wanted to see how reliably it works, so currently i got only ssh and vnc set up with Raspbian, but it works really reliably, boots up after around a minute from plugging in, and lets my iphone SSH/VNC into it.

I already have plans on setting up these things:

⁠- USB DVD drive emulator to be able to boot ISOs on devices that don't do booting from USB drives - A crappy slow little NAS to transfer things with my classmates - A stupid little device for BLE/Wifi pranks - simple way to jailbreak/flash iOS devices - portable thing for fastboot+heimdall - always on hand SPI flasher

I deleted my original post because right after I said I wanted to design and print my own custom side panel, I did. I decided I wanted to incorporate the Raspberry Pi logo and a 40mm fan.

It was important to me that the light of my recently installed common cathode RGB LED (hot glued to the top of the inside of the case), set to smooth transitioning through colors, was more visible than my previous side panel (to do RGB you'll need a soldering iron, heat shrink tubing, that RGB LED, 3 x 220ohm resistors, 4 jumper wires, available pins on the GPIO, and a Python script to run at startup). Rather than have visible screws, I hot glued the fan housing in place. The fan simply uses 2 pins on the GPIO, turns on as soon as power is applied to the RPi, shuts down when the RPi shuts down, and only runs at a single speed. No scripts.

I'll eventually add a thin piece of clear acrylic to cover the opposite side of the side panel with the fan hole cut out.

I don't overclock the RPi so simple heatsinks work fine on their own and the fan isn't as important but still good to have. For anyone curious, I am running Armbian and the only thing I use the RPi for is to play with Linux.

I needed an enclosure for a Raspberry Pi 4B project and got tired of remodeling the same box-with-holes every time, so I built a small tool for it: EnclosureAI (https://enclosure-ai-production.up.railway.app).

You describe what you need in plain English -- e.g. "Raspberry Pi 4B case, ethernet and 4 USB on the back, USB-C and 2 micro-HDMI on the front, SD card slot on the left" -- and it fills in the correct board dimensions (already knows Pi 4B, ESP32, Arduino Uno, Wemos D1), sets up PCB standoffs, and cuts the port holes without them overlapping. Or just pick your board from a Quick Start list if you don't want to type anything. Everything's still editable afterward -- drag ports around, switch to a two-piece snap-fit lid, adjust wall thickness -- and it exports STL/OBJ/parametric JSCAD.

It's free, no login, no ads. Built this for my own Pi 4B project, figured it might be useful to others here too. Would genuinely appreciate feedback -- bugs, missing connector types, whatever's off.

I've been running Qwen 35B A3B MoE model on my Pi for CarWatch local AI, and it's very smart but not too fast. You need to get into a relaxed mode with it, ask your questions, don't count the seconds, hear the answer when it comes.

Anyway wanted to explore the current possibilities so ran speed tests overnight, results in pic. Summary: Looks like the only way to speed up atm is to use Gemmas, which should be significantly less intelligent. Did not do any systematic quality testing yet.

The Gemmas are multimodal though and leave plenty of room on the device for other apps. So a good choice for many applications.

There's a model switcher in CarWatch 0.5 to be released today so you can easily compare performance in practise.

Calais ferry terminal appears to be having a bit of a Kernel Panic issue...

I am working on a python program to read the advertisements from an Inkbird IBS-TH2 sensor and display them to a SSD1306 on a raspberry pi zero w. Using AI, I was able to get this to work but using the adafruit_ssd1306 package it only has a small font for the display. With my elderly eyes, it is hard to distinguish some of the numbers. Does anyone have a package or library of larger fonts I can use for this project? I have searched for a way to load and use larger fonts but I only find information for Arduino projects. I already did this with a Pico W and associated micropython packages but I am not seeing much for the raspberry pi.

I built a Raspberry Pi 4 (4GB) tablet—or "cyberdeck." It’s powered by a 3S battery pack and has built-in speakers for audio. Did it turn out okay for a project that wasn't exactly my first? ...especially considering there's no way to check the remaining battery level.

i had one mechanical keyboard after getting bored i tried to reverse engineer it but i couldn't send any usb data or i could not see much on the terminal when i tried to see if it listens to the data and after opening i saw that it only takes +5v and gnd plus the processor something like BYK.. was a hard coded chip that doesnt listen notes i was newbie to hardware and really scared to try anything. so i gave up but seeing my brother have a kreo rgb keyboard it gave me some boost to open it up and i learned so much and burnt my hand while trying to solder.

heck i even burnt the solder iron's wire itself (sniff sniff whats that smell).

so the plane was that i would use a mcu as esp 32 or pico that listen to my command and can do anything that i want .

first month really ....

i bought a mulitmeter and did the traces of all the rows and col sicne there was no pcb and other design files there i didnt know how keyboard matrix works at all i went rhough whole thing.. after getting all the traces and nothing them i was really soul scattered by the fact how this whole thing worked but then i got to know this was a common thing everyone knew this.

after this i took pico as the main mcu why...

1. it was small

2. it has higher clock speed.

3. it was one sale since the esp was on boom and the price of pico was dropped

4. it has more computer power that i needed for Fourier transform for disco light that i wanted for the custom rgbs i would put there

quickly after that i ran into a problem of less gpio also

after that i took a longer time to solder since i was learning and it was very scarry to solder on the pcb but as i did i grew more confident .. after burning my finger prints.

i bought a io expander because of 6 rows and 17 cols it got burnt and again tried that was jittering the one signal was affecting other signal. so i gave up 3-4 cols and went for the gpio full on.

The RGBs... Hardest

the rgb i had to cut each rgb strip stick them all on each keys then use the single core wired without the cover and solder each joints aroung 300 small pieces of them total 600 joints appx and it was tough because heating one end would make other end heat up also.

but since i cascaded 100 of them the voltage kept decreasing and it was 0.5v at the end so i just provided supply from both of rows and it worked and there was no deeming and jitters.

thats it... if u want to know about the logic behind it then u can ask me i will add it most of things and testing and all the stuff is in the video