Special thanks to Koekieezz over at the Win-Raid Forum for helping me out with this project.

This project involved modifying my ASUS Sabertooth Z77 BIOS to add support for both NVMe booting and Resizable BAR (ReBAR) through Above 4G Decoding. The system is running an Intel Core i7-3770K overclocked to 4.7GHz, paired with 32gb of DDR3 running at 1866mhz, and an ASUS TUF RTX 3060 12gb.

The modified BIOS allowed the RTX 3060 to utilize ReBAR on this older Ivy Bridge/Z77 platform. Due to the platforms memory addressing limitations with 32gb of system ram, the maximum ReBAR size available on this configuration is 8gb. After enabling ReBAR and configuring the ReBarState UEFI variable, the GPU reports an 8192mib BAR1, which confirms that ReBAR is fully active. The GPU is also running at PCIe 3.0 x8 under load, as expected with the current PCIe lane configuration, while the NVMe drive is operating on the second CPU PCIe root port.

Pretty impressive considering this platform dates back to 2012. The goal of this project was to see just how far an old Z77 + Ivy Bridge system could be pushed with modern hardware and firmware modifications.

Do you guys change core voltage when overclocking your 5080's? Im not sure how safe it is, right now im boosting to 3115-3150 with low temps but was thinking it might be voltage thats limiting me from pushing it further. I just dunno how safe it is or how bad it is for longevity.

Hi everyone!

I have a faulty Ryzen 9 5950X and I'd like to try repairing it. There may be a current leakage issue caused by a faulty MLCC capacitor, based on the resistance measurements I've taken.

So, I'm going to have to delid the CPU, and I'd really appreciate some advice on how to do it safely and what tools I should use.

I'd say there's about a one-in-three chance that a capacitor is actually the problem. If it isn't, then the CPU is probably dead, but I'd still like to give the repair a shot.

My motherboard can't POST with the CPU installed. The pins aren't bent, and according to the previous owner, when the CPU was installed in their PC, the PSU would immediately go into protection mode.

I've made some other posts if you'd like more information about the issue and the repair project, including the resistance and voltage measurements I've taken.

I'm also in contact with some professionals who can help me verify a few things and potentially give me access to professional equipment, such as a thermal camera, bench power supply, and possibly a heating plate.

Thanks a lot for your time and for any advice you can give me!

RTX 5080 Zotac – 400W OC + vmod: what would you change?

I’m currently running my Zotac RTX 5080 at around 400W with a vmod. My current settings are:

- +450 MHz XBAR

- +450 MHz core

- +2500 MHz memory

What would you recommend changing or fine-tuning? Is there anything I definitely shouldn’t touch further?

How safe are these settings for daily use? I’m mainly interested in long-term stability and not just pushing a benchmark score.

Also, what are your real-world experiences with XBAR and these kinds of memory/core OCs? Do they actually give noticeable FPS gains in games, or is most of the improvement only visible in benchmarks like Steel Nomad?

Would love to hear what settings you guys are running and what kind of gains you’re getting.

Just a sanity check as i have never really dabbled in DDR5, those are green sticks, this seems to be stable after testing, 43.25c max temp while testing. 2x16 sticks.

Am i missing anything? Wrong something?

Thanks!

Mvolt+ is just insane

Managed to secure the #1 Global spot in 3DMark Steel Nomad for the RTX 5070 Ti and i7-13700KF combination, putting up a score of 7,929 at native 3440x1440p and taking down the previous best of 7,856 by 73 points.

GPU Tuning (ASUS RTX 5070 Ti / GB203-200 / Samsung GDDR7):

• Core Clock Offset: Dialed in at +130 MHz. +135 MHz triggered a driver crash midway, while +130 MHz locked in completely flat.
• Effective Clocks: The GPU frequency line held virtually flat between 2,950 MHz and 3,000 MHz for the duration of the run without any clock dipping or voltage flinching.
• Power Limit & Draw: Maxed out the native VBIOS board power to 116%, with telemetry showing the total board draw pulling up to ~353W under peak rendering load.
• Fabric & Interconnect: Pushed XBAR Clock Offset to +475 MHz.
• VRAM: Maxed the offset slider at +3,000 MHz with no artifacting, instability, or ECC-induced throughput drop.

Whenever I run VT3 test my ram gets to on heavy heavy load 55-56 and extremely tight timings

My ram won’t go over 40 ever now. Such an underrated item idk why everybody doesn’t add it. It even looks good too

I’m 15 min now in my test and highest is still 40, WOW.

couple of days ago i went and tried OC Scanner on afterburner but the setting was horrible and it wont revert, ive done everything to get my gpu back to stock default: DDU, CMS Reset thru BIOS but it still keep the settings OC applied. if has any experience with this please i'd appreciate the help.

i'll be also attaching the crazy tune it applied to my gpu.

Finally found a good undervolt for my 5080 Suprim SOC.

Http://www3dmark.com/pr/4012995

Blue - just UV in MSI Afterburner

Red - same UV + 200 crossbar in mvolt+

Green - same UV + 350 crossbar in mvolt+

Can someone explain this? How come +350 crossbar reduces power draw while increasing GPU clock and not increasing Crossbar clock (this one i can understand, it just caps at this clock)? This is Steel Nomad run, i noticed same behaviour in Cyberpunk 2077

I recently built my new PC, and while initially I wanted to leave it as is, curiosity got the best of my and I attempted to undervolt the CPU.

For reference, the specs are:

- MSI X870E Tomahawk Wifi

- Ryzen 7 9850X3D

- CORSAIR Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2 x 16GB) 6000MHz (EXPO enabled)

- CORSAIR RM1000x ATX

- Noctua NH-D15 G2

To undervolt I followed some simple steps I found online:

1. Go to BIOS -> Advanced Mode -> Advanced CPU Configuration -> AMD Overclocking -> Precision Boost Overdrive

2. Set PBO to Advanced

3. PBO Limits to Motherboard

4. Curve Optimizer, All Cores, Negative, 15

I then restarted my computer and got a "irql_not_less_or_equal" error on Windows 11 login screen right away. Googled it, saw it was most likely due to the undervolt, so I changed the 15 to 10. I rebooted again, everything went fine, but five minutes in, computer froze and had to hard reset. I then went to BIOS again, changed the 10 to a 5, and so far it is working fine, but I wonder why I can just go 5 when most places say 10/15 is conservative, and some people push to 20/25.

Hello guys, im pretty new at oc, so i really need some guidance.

I have a Ryzen 7 9800X3D, a Gigabyte B650 AORUS Elite motherboard, and a 2x16GB XPG Lancer RGB DDR5-6000 CL48 kit with Micron ICs (yeah... I messed up when I bought it).

I'd like to tighten the timings a bit to squeeze out some extra performance, but I don't want to push things too far and end up with a no-boot situation that requires a CMOS clear. Unfortunately, performing a Clear CMOS is a real pain for me because of how my PC case is positioned.

So my question is: How likely is it that the system won't boot if I make the following changes while keeping the EXPO profile as the base?

Voltages (currently all 1.10V from the EXPO profile):

• CPU_VDDIO_MEM: 1.10V → 1.35V
• DRAM VDD: 1.10V → 1.35V
• DRAM VDDQ: 1.10V → 1.35V

Primary/secondary timings:

• tCL: 48 → 42
• tRCDRD: 48 → 44
• tRP: 48 → 44
• tRC: 144 → 96
• tWR: 90 → 48

I'm also considering increasing tREFI from 11,677 to 40,000.

Again, all of these changes would be made on top of the existing EXPO profile, not from scratch.

Has anyone here overclocked Micron D-die DDR5-6000 CL48 and can tell me whether these settings have a good chance of working? Or, if you have experience with these ICs, could you recommend a more conservative set of timings that would still provide a small performance improvement while being very unlikely to fail training and require a Clear CMOS?

I'd really appreciate any advice from people who have experience tuning Micron D-die memory on AM5.

I tried changing aardptrinitval but 0 and 1 did not match them. 2 Did match them to the higher number and got slightly worse performance.

Any way to get them to match to the lower number? 33 on stick A and 35 on stick B.

hi. Everyone so I have a 10900 KF and A Z490 TUF Gaming, I really want to get my setting so. That. the CPU boosts to 5.3 gigahertz on the two, favoured cores and whatever it thinks for the rest, which I think is 5.1 and goes all the way down, to minimum speed and minimum voltage the rest of the time, when it's not under load, but I just can't get it to do it. How do I do that

Factory cooling,Rx 9070 Xt asus tuf OC
Ryzen 7 7700
2x16 gb ddr5 6200 mhz cl36 ram
Nvme gen4 ssd
Any tips on how to get my score even further?
(İt Was 7200 points with stock settings)

Would you consider it a good OC? Tested it on testmem5 anta777 for 1 hour. What would you suggest?

My first attempt at tuning RAM

It’s been a process but over the last couple months I’ve been reading a ton about RAM tuning and so far this is what I’ve been able to achieve. I’ll be tightening everything up further eventually but for now this configuration passes testmem5, karhu, and Y cruncher, all 10+ hr tests. Kinda proud 🤓

I’m using the klevv cras v 32GB 2x16 kit

Did some testing last Night and wanted to Share my current Bench Settings .

5070Ti Aorus Master

133% Powerlimit (400W)

Core: 290+ 3285@1.030
Memory: 3000+
XBar: 500+
SysClock: 150+

Peak Hotspot was around 90°C at 360-390W. I guess 2500rpm while Benching is too much .

Can someone explain , why I can’t get over 3.3Ghz ?
Top Scores are all with Card going up to 3350Mhz.
I know it depends on Silicon, but with more Voltage 3.3 should be possible ?

System Configuration

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X (OEM)
• Motherboard: ASRock B650M PG Lightning WiFi
• BIOS: version 4.44 (latest)
• RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB, 32GB (2x16GB), DDR5-6000, XMP/EXPO enabled
• Cooler: Deepcool AS500
• GPU: RTX 5070 (KFA2 ROCK OC)
• PSU: XPG Core Reactor II VE 750W, 80+ Gold
• Storage: ADATA SX8200PNP 1TB (OS drive), WD Blue SN5000 1TB — both checked via CrystalDiskInfo, health at 97-99%, no issues
• OS: Windows 11 Pro

Timeline

September — PC built. Ran completely stable for about 6 months with CPB enabled and stock AMD PBO settings.

First few months — CPU was hitting 95°C under load (stock PBO limits, unrestricted). Manual PPT/TDC/EDC limits (88000/75000/120000) were set later, bringing temps down to ~65-66°C — but this was already after the instability started.

April — with no hardware, driver, or setting changes, the system started hard-hanging with no BSOD: at idle, in the browser, and during Windows boot (spinning dots screen). Hanging during boot is the most frequent and most reliably reproducible scenario.

Key observation: with Core Performance Boost (CPB) disabled, the system boots and runs 100% stable (locked at 3.9 GHz base clock). With CPB enabled, it hangs on boot in almost every configuration tried.

Until June — stable on Positive Curve Optimizer +10. This was the first setting that let the system boot at all with CPB enabled after a long string of failed Negative CO attempts.

Then Positive CO +15 — stable for about 3 months, the only extended period of stability with boost enabled.

June — bumped to Positive CO +20 after the first repeat failure on +15. Worked for a while.

Now — +20 no longer boots. Reverting to +15 or +10 doesn't help either — none of the previously working CO values let the system boot with CPB enabled anymore.

What's been tried and did NOT fully fix it

CPU power/boost settings

• Curve Optimizer, All Core, Negative 10 — hangs
• Curve Optimizer, All Core, Negative 30 — hangs
• CPU Boost Clock Override Negative 100 — hangs on boot
• CPU Boost Clock Override Negative 400 — hangs on boot
• CPU Boost Clock Override Negative 450 — boots occasionally, then crashes with various BSODs (BAD_POOL_CALLER 0xc2, KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE 0x139)
• PBO limits, Manual, multiple configs from stock down to heavily restricted (PPT 65000/TDC 55000/EDC 90000) with Curve Optimizer and Boost Override left on Auto — hangs on boot
• Fixed clock via CPU Ratio (non-CPB mode): tested at 4800 MHz @ 1.25V → 1.2V → 1.15V → 1.1V — stable at every step, final numbers in OCCT: 69°C, 90W, 100% load, 4806 MHz. This is the only fully working configuration, but with no dynamic boost.

Global C-States / power saving

• Global C-State Control → Disabled — didn't fix hangs under load/in browser
• Power Supply Idle Control: Typical Current Idle vs Low Current Idle — no noticeable effect

Memory

• XMP/EXPO disabled, tested at stock 4800 MHz — no change
• Full multi-pass MemTest86 was not run (only XMP disable as an indirect check)

BIOS

• Full reset to Optimized Defaults — no change
• BIOS updates were tried, but none of the previously working Positive CO values (+10/+15/+20) let the system boot anymore afterward

Windows / software

• Windows Power Plan: High Performance → Balanced — no change
• sfc /scannow — found and repaired corrupted system files
• Clean GPU driver reinstall via DDU — didn't fully resolve the issue
• Memory Integrity (HVCI) — disabling it removes the strict kernel memory integrity check (which triggers BSOD), but doesn't fix the root cause
• AMD SVM Mode → Disabled — tried, no improvement, and it breaks game anti-cheats that require virtualization (Riot Vanguard, BattlEye, EAC) — dropped this option

What temporarily WORKED

• Positive Curve Optimizer +10 — the first value that let the system boot at all with CPB enabled, after many failed attempts with Negative CO
• Positive Curve Optimizer +15 — stable for ~3 months (until June). OCCT numbers: 70°C, 88W, 100% load, 4800 MHz (dynamic via CPB, not fixed)
• Positive CO +20 (from June) — worked temporarily, then stopped booting
• Right now, none of +10/+15/+20 work.

Diagnostics that ruled out other causes

• HWiNFO64: motherboard sensors normal at fixed clock
• CrystalDiskInfo: both drives healthy (97-99%), rules out SSD degradation as root cause
• Event Viewer / WHEA-Logger: empty at the time of hangs — since most hangs happen before Windows finishes loading, the OS never gets a chance to log anything
• SrtTrail.txt / Startup Repair Log: all checks (disk, registry, bootloader, metadata) passed with code 0x0 — rules out filesystem/bootloader corruption
• CPU/GPU stress tests separately via OCCT: both pass cleanly under full sustained load for 5-20 minutes — meaning under steady load the CPU and GPU are stable, so the problem seems to be specifically in transition moments (frequency/boost changes), not sustained load

Additional context

• Originally suspected CPU degradation from running at 95°C under unrestricted stock AMD PBO settings for the first few months
• One notable pattern: the Positive CO value needed for stability keeps climbing over time (+10 → +15 → +20 → now not even +20 is enough), which looks more like progressive degradation than a one-time tuning issue

Main question

What should I actually do here, and how can I realistically fix this? The Positive CO value needed keeps climbing (+10 → +15 → +20, and now even +20 isn't enough) — but I don't want to just keep pushing it to +25/+30 and beyond, because sooner or later I'll hit a ceiling where there's no more room to compensate, and the underlying problem will still be there. I'd like to understand the actual root cause instead of just kicking the can down the road. Is RMA'ing the CPU worth it given this history (6 months of normal operation, then gradually worsening boost instability that needs more and more voltage compensation over time)? Or could this be something other than the CPU that I haven't checked yet? Any ideas or similar experiences would be appreciated.

It helped me to get to number 11 in the world in port royal on hwbot. I’m on ambient air water cooling. 74f in my home so it’s not even very cold ambient.

https://hwbot.org/benchmarks/3dmark_-_port_royal/submissions/6067876

Specs:

CPU
Ryzen 7 5800X3D — AM4

Motherboard
ASUS TUF Gaming B550-Plus WiFi II

RAM
G.Skill Trident Z Royal — F4-3200C16Q-32GTRS — 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL16-18-18-38 1.35V

Is it even worth it? I only want to do this since i read 3600 mhz is the sweet spot for ryzen on am4. Also read that it’s harder with 4 sticks of ram instead of two, only reason I have those is because they were salvaged my old motherboard which did have quad channel memory support (intel x299 HEDT)…and my motherboard died, found a deal on a am4 motherboard and cpu and didn’t want to pay $700 for $100 worth of DDR5 ram.

Have no idea how to do it, any suggestions on where to start or if it’s even worth it.

Hi! I have been using Ryzen Master for a very long time to set undervolt my CPU. It used to be simple. Just set, and apply. Then they changed so you'd have to reboot and nowadays the app is just completely different. I know I can set it the same way in the new app but I would rather just do it in the BIOS and not have to deal with it.

I am wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction of how to do it.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7950X
Mobo: ASUS ROG STRIX X670E-E GAMING WIFI

First image is my old Ryzen Master settings. I only change the three marked things. CPU Clock, CPU Voltage and EXPO 1. It worked super well. No crashes and a very quiet computer.

Second image is my BIOS. I tried changing the marked selection to MANUAL with CPU Voltage to 0.985 but the computer would not boot with this. It would just reboot in a loop and the clock speed I have no idea where to change so it is set to 4.800.

Thank you so much!

Is there any point of doing 1000w bios or what oc is the best for this card?

My setup:

thor 1200w psu

X870E-AORUS-PRO-X3D-ICE

5090 astral lc

32gb trident

9950x3d2

Hi everyone,

Like many of you, I’ve been following the melting connector drama.
Even with the "safer" 12V-2x6 revision, cable strain and improper seating etc. still cause melting problems. We hear about this everyday.

I decided to approach this from an industrial perspective. I’ve designed a custom mod concept aimed at eliminating human error and cable strain entirely.

It's cheap, it's quite simple, it should get the job done.
You just need some patience and you can make your overclocking safer.

Any volunteers? Any suggestions?

Sadly, I don't have any Nvidia GPU to make this MOD at the moment...

I've described it all here: https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/12v-2x6-and-12vhpwr-final-fix-for-nvidia-gpus-industrial-mod-concept-by-lame.352266/