I bought a used Zotac 5080 but it did not come with the box. I want to show it off on my shelf and if anyone has a spare they are willing to giveaway/sell I will gladly take it off your hands

Hey y'all!
​I recently upgraded my Zotac Magnus One (which originally came with an i5-10400 and an RTX 3060). I wanted to share my experience and the solutions I found, in case someone is trying to keep this tiny bro alive and finds it useful.

​Sure, the RTX 3060 is still somewhat okay for 1080p gaming in 2026, but I really needed more performance since I made the jump to 1440p.
​I had a lot of doubts about this "project" due to the severe upgrade limitations of this mini PC. Like, the LGA 1200 socket on this specific motherboard doesn't support 11th-gen Intel processors because of some BIOS limitations. The GPU size is strictly limited by the Zotac case dimensions, and the motherboard only supports PCIe 3.0 and SODIMM DDR4 up to 2933 MHz.

​My upgrade began with swapping the old 3060 for an MSI RTX 5070 Ventus 2X.
I measured the inner dimensions of the case beforehand, and it seemed like a tight but doable fit. When installing it, I couldn't get it to seat properly into the PCIe slot, so I actually had to bend the case slightly. After that, it fit perfectly without a scratch.
​The new GPU was a good choice for 1440p gaming, but I quickly realized one major issue: the old i5-10400 simply couldn't unlock the full potential of the 5070.
Sure, it was playable, and some heavily GPU-bound games utilized 100% of the card. However, the CPU became a massive bottleneck in online shooters like Apex Legends, War Thunder, and CS2. The 1% lows would drop from 150 down to 30 FPS, which was incredibly frustrating :)
​So, I decided to upgrade the CPU and bought an i9-10900KF since I found it at a normal price. I paired it with a Thermalright low-profile cooler (rated for 85W TDP) and some Arctic MX-7 paste.
​I also updated the RAM from 16 to 64 GB. The new CPU allowed me to reach 2933 MHz instead of the 2666 MHz that I had with the i5.

​And here we go...
Putting a 10-core i9 with a basic TDP of 125W into a tiny box with an 85W cooler was crazy. Since I tested everything in the summer, the CPU would instantly hit even higher than the 87°C PROCHOT limit and throttle hard, causing stutters. To make things worse, Zotac's motherboard/BIOS hardware-locks voltage controls (FIVR is completely locked in ThrottleStop), meaning direct CPU undervolting was impossible 😭
​But I managed to reduce the temps and stop throttling. Here is how:

1. ​Since I couldn't undervolt the i9, I limited the power and frequencies via ThrottleStop.

• PL1: Set to 75W
• PL2: Set to 134W for 28 seconds (instead of the stock 224W for ~50s which instantly cooked the cooler).
• Speed Shift Max: Limited to 45 (4.5 GHz). Stopping the CPU from trying to boost to 5.3 GHz saved a ton of heat.
• Speed Shift EPP: Set to 170 to keep it cooler during idle or browsing.

2. ​In a small Zotac case, the ~250W GPU heat directly influences the CPU temps.
So I undervolted the GPU in MSI Afterburner at 925mV for ~2800MHz. The temps decreased by about 8°C.

​The Result:
The system is now stable. The 1% lows are smooth in 1440p, the massive FPS drops in shooters like earlier are gone, and the temps are also fine. An old CPU fan made a lot of noise but the new Thermalright is really silent, it also keeps the i9 at ~70°C under 75W which is a good result.
And an interesting thing is that I didn't lose much FPS in games by decreasing the TDP of the CPU.

All things considered, the upgrade was worth the money.
​I just couldn't watch my Zotac getting older and didn't want to throw it away or sell it. I gave it a second life. I guess it is the maximum upgrade that was normal in terms of price. I saw some guys put a 5070 Ti in Zotac's case, but the Ti version costs almost twice as much as a normal 5070 nowadays. I still need to get a new SSD since my old one has only 485 GB. Maybe in the future if the prices go down...

Oh, yeah, almost forgot, the prices for every upgraded component:

600€ for the RTX 5070 Ventus 2X White (new)
200€ for 64 GB of SODIMM ddr4 RAM (used)
163€ for intel core i9 10900KF (used)
20€ for Thermalright AXP90-X36 (new)

​Hope this helps!
If you have any recommendations or useful tips, I'd be grateful to hear them 👍

My 5090 buzzes annoyingly at around 60-70% of fan speed and is completely fine below that. Any reason why?

Hey everyone,

I've been using a Zotac RTX 5090 and recently noticed an annoying buzzing/rattling noise coming from the fans.

After troubleshooting, I realized it happens exclusively at around 2100 RPM. If I increase or decrease the fan speed manually (either above ~2200 RPM or below ~2000 RPM), the noise completely disappears. Temperatures and overall performance are perfectly fine (idling at 37°C), so it seems to be a specific fan resonance or bearing tolerance issue at that exact speed range.

Has anyone else encountered this specific issue with their 5090 or Zotac card? Is this considered normal acoustic resonance, or should I reach out for an RMA?
Appreciate any insights!

Since 2 weeks ago my Zotac RTX 2060 every time i start my pc the GPU fans start spinning very fast although every temperature is perfect, GPU average temp is 33-36 °C and the hot spot is averaging between 44-47°C.

In the span of these 2 weeks two days in a row was perfectly fine but then it started doing it again, i did a complete clean reinstall to windows and still the same, no cable is touching the fans or anything but when i shake my PC case slightly the GPU fans stop spinning fast and go back to normal mode and after 5-10 seconds they pick up the pace again. I tried controlling the fans through afterburner but it doesn't let me unless i quickly shake the pc case so the fans go back to normal and then i can control them but after i lower the RPM it starts again. Any suggestions?

Hey,
Topic,
Its the Magnus One with i5-10400 and RTX 3060 12GB.
What upgrades/mods did you guys do?
I know that cooling and fans are the must, but let me know what u are cooking :P
I can have pretty cheap i9-10900 and Im not sure if its worth to try.
Does it have to be i9-10900/i9-10900F/i9-10900K ?

If some1 knows smth let me know :P about those upgrades and mods.
Sorry for my english

i get todayy my zotac gaming geforce rtx 5080 amp extreme infinity and i must say i love it

So around 2-3 years ago I bought an RTX 4090 from Zotac the trinity amp after a while it gave me trouble. Troubleshooted the card swapped it out and it’s definitely the culprit. My only issue is I’m located in the EU and I ordered this card from Amazon US. I tried asking Amazon for a replacement they obviously said no nor a refund. Is there a way I can get this card fixed by Zotac without having to actually pay an import fee? Do they make exceptions to send this to an EU warehouse for a case like this? Or have they ever? I have about a 32 days left of warranty on this card and I really wanna get this replaced. Any help is appreciated

UPDATE:
Started a ticket and talked. They forwarded me to the EU Team and they denied me and forwarded me back to the US Team. Ticket has been switched to RMA but they’re still deciding. They also said I’m getting impatient. Which considering it’s a 1600 euro card and it’s been giving me issues months after it arrived I’d say it’s a PRETTY big deal when I now have 31 days left of warranty and they’re not being that clear. Seems like a little of lack communication between the staff. And this is what they’ve said:

“I will escalate your ticket for further evaluation to the RMA team. Once the RMA Department reviews your request, they will send you an email and inform you if your case can be approved under warranty. Please wait for the RMA response within 24-48 business hours. Their office hours are Monday to Friday 9am-6pm PST, if they receive this ticket after 6pm or on a Friday, they will not see your ticket until the next day or next Monday” So I’m a bit skeptical how they said if your case can be approved under warranty because now I feel like they are going to reject my RMA despite still having warranty.

My watch is over. Solid core oc 5080.

I’ve had a trinity OC 3080ti for some time now, recently upgraded my PC to AM5 but decided to keep my GPU for now as it still performs just fine in most games and with 12GB of VRAM, I’ve only seen one game in 5 years give it a hard time.

For the entire time I owned it, it has run stock. I was too scared to fiddle with overclocking etc when i first got into PC gaming, then it just stayed that way.

Upon upgrading, I know much more than I did 5 years ago and I’m running stable under volts across my CPU and GPU, mainly for temp reduction reasons as I’m running a 9950x3d, 3080ti, RAM clocked above spec and an x570 motherboard, in m-atx format.

From what I’m reading about people’s experiences, did I hit the silicone lottery all those years ago with my 3080ti? I’m successfully running pretty much locked to 2010MHz at 956mV? All stable and no issues, temps have dropped and performance has increased. I wasn’t chasing MHz, I was chasing lower power draw, just ended up at sustainable 2GHz clocks at under 1V…

I recently bought a Zotac 5070TI Solid Core SFF OC for near MSRP and just want to get a sanity check on the temps I am seeing. I know that hotspot temp was hidden until recently (and are also high for 5000 series), and just want some input on your experience or direction you'd go. Case is an open air case with no direct fans on the GPU.

This SFF card is fairly light, and I assume will run on the hot side because of it. However, to prevent to GPU from killing itself, I have been running it at PL 83% since if I let it do 100% and push it (cant do 110 in afterburner) it can go over 105C hotspot. It doesnt matter if i undervolt it or not. Even at 0.850mV, at 100%PL (and pushed) itll do upwards of 100+ Hotspot. Now, there is only about a 20C delta between the hotspot and the GPU temp (so if GPU reads 80 hotspot will be 100) and Ive rarely seen the GPU get over 85.

Ill use Furmark as an example of pushing, but I have had this happen in some games as well if I push the GPU. I use afterburner to adjust settings while furmark is running in the background. Stock fan curve as well just to make things easier for comparing.

1. Undervolted to 0.850mV and PL 83% temps will climb to about GPU/HOTSPOT of 75C/90C
2. Undervolted to 0.850mV and PL100% temps will climb to about GPU/HOTSPOT of 80C/100C
3. Revert to stock settings will result in immediately (1-2s) hitting GPU/HOTSPOT of 85C/105C, fans kick to max speed and hotspot remains at 100+
4. Set PL to 83% temps will settle at about GPU/HOTSPOT of 80C/98C

Seems like a spicy GPU, or is this rather normal for the 5000 series. Ive read the hotspots are horrendous, but didnt think itd be this bad. So is an RMA in order, should I just return it, or keep and run it at .85MV/83% PL/do a fan curve/change cases to put some fans on it, since that seems to be more acceptable temps? I am able to get a Steel Nomad of 7k at 0.850/83%PL so not horrible by any means.

Appreciate any input

I get that most of us aren't swapping GPUs frequently but FFS Zotac, the clip facing the middle of the GPU is anti thick fingered folk engineering. When I do need to pull the GPU out I end up using a small screwdriver or a pocketknife blade to release that clip...

I purchased a ohsnap last year and in 2024. The older one magnetic seams to hold to the phone and seams to hold to much better then the newer version.

Hey guys, quick question before I tear down my TUF-RTX3060TI-O8G-V2-GAMING

I'm switching to PTM7950 on the GPU core and replacing the thermal pads, but I keep seeing conflicting info online. Some guides say 1.5mm for VRAM and 2.0mm for VRM, while comments claim different sizes depending on the revision/memory brand.

Has anyone repadded this exact card recently? What thicknesses actually worked for you without messing up the mounting pressure on the core?

Appreciate any input.

I am running a 5090 Zotac Gaming AMP Extreme Infinity. I am very happy with the card and performance, but under load it's getting a bit too hot for my taste. Often hitting 80-83° under full load.

The fan seems to max out around 70-75% using standard Amplify bios setting.

Could anybody recommend me a manual fan Curve to use where the fans will go up to 80-90%.

I don't want to change clocks or run an overclock, just cool things down a bit more and I am not really experienced with these kind of changes and adjustments.

I recently bought a Zotac 3080 Trinity OC off FB marketplace and while everything works (despite it being so loud), the RGB was an issue. I soon realised that it was a universal issue across many of the same models.

Every time I run the FwToolV1.2.exe, I get NVAPI Error and then Read device type error. Everything I’ve done has not fixed the issue. It just keeps hanging at installing (1-1) with no update.

However, the device driver they tell you to install is usually for Windows 10. I still manually installed the driver and I tried everything that everyone suggested:

Using DDU and installing 456.38
Booting in Safe Mode
Leaving GPU out for 15 minutes
Starting FWTool in Admin/Non-Admin
Disabled all Non Microsoft Services/Disable other RGB software
Plugging Display cable into Mobo
And a bunch of other farfetched methods
Redoing 20+ times

Is there any updated way for Windows 11? And what is the expected time to wait for the installing message to update? I feel like it should be somewhat instant but it would be interesting to see how long other people have waited for that FW tool to complete.