The rattling happens a lot during cold starts and will be present when rpm climbs but not at a constant really

Im seeing alot of deals on termi drivetrains for a bit cheaper than building my 01 cobra motor and adding stuff to make it work with an eaton, any idea what kind of preperation is required to swap a termi motor and trans into an 01 cobra?

Hi all, I recently redid the entire suspension of my new edge convertible. Bilstein B6 struts, shocks, quad shocks, Eibach prokit springs with new rubber isolators, new sway bar end links, SR caster Camber plates and upgraded to 18” over the premium 17” that came with the car.

I had everything aligned (didn’t align completely properly as the passenger side sits with a -1.4 camber but the rear was compensated). I hear this creaking sound that comes from the front driver side now if I go over a speed bump or any rather larger groove in the road. I’m trying to locate if anything is not torqued right and coming up with nothing. Is it creaking juts because the geometry has been completely overhauled or maybe no grease on the new rubber isolators? Seems to only be local to my front drivers side but I can’t locate where exactly.

Is this just a convertible thing? Idk I’m lost. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I installed a bigger screen in my car and basically had to jury-rig it to stay in place, but I ended up breaking the bezel in the process. I recently saw someone swap the positions of their radio screen and A/C controls, which would help keep my screen from blocking the gear shifter. I tried using a double DIN installation kit, but couldn’t get it to fit. How can I install this properly, and what would I need to swap the screen and A/C controls? 🥲

Not sure what this loud rattling noise could be on my 02 Mustang, it’s not the exhaust system as it’s not moving or anything when I try to shake it and this noise becomes real loud for example when I’ll either come to a stop at like a light or when I’ll finally park, it’ll just rattle stupidly loud and I’m not sure where to pinpoint the issue to any ideas?

is there any benefits to a aftermarket steering shaft? i need a new one but i don’t race the car, just use it on the weekends. is tit worth getting a MM one or just keep it factory?

Gave it a little tlc today

I bought this new edge from an elderly man a few months ago. The steering has always been stiff, almost like the power steering pump is failing. While trying to take the power steering pump off unsuccessfully, I noticed that the driver side of my steering rack is leaking. The other side is clean and dry. It looks like it has been leaking for a while as some of it is wet but as you can see, some of it has dried on to the rack. The underside is pretty clean but I do notice more of this fluid on other parts.

Fully draining the power steering pump helped a little but not much.

Trick question, its free. Its been sitting 6 years, being cranked intermittently 'allegedly'. Put 2 quarts of oil in it and fresh gas and after priming it by hand it for a bit it cranked right up and spunds good. Did an inspection and drove it a mile on a dirt road. Drives good but im Def replacing every rotor, pad, and caliper. Needs pressure washed, tires, and an oil filter adapter gasket, and she'll be a daily again. 😁

My wife filmed this while driving next to me and I have to admit… New Edges just look damn good rolling down the road. Still completely obsessed with this thing. And the sound!

13 years with the coyote swap, 26 years with the car.

I have just placed an order on these Moog 8594 front coil suspension springs . Rock auto states they are suitable for my convertible auto transmission body.

I then done some further research and AI seems to think these are for the V8 model, contrary to what Rock Auto said, and that the front of my car will therefore sit too high.

Has anybody used these parts on their stang ?

While jumping right into this, I would like to start off by saying that I’ve been chasing an ongoing issue with my manual 2003 Mach 1 for months and I’m reaching the point where I’m ready to give up on diagnosing it myself and take it to a shop.

For some insight, the car currently has approximately 117,600 miles, a K&N intake, stock manifolds and H-pipe, and Borla ATAK mufflers.

The original recurring code was P0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1). It came back roughly once per month in March, April, May and July. Then in August, instead of P0172, I received P0420 (Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1) twice within five days and only 164 miles. The car is my daily and mainly drive it with highway miles considering a 60 mile round-trip commute, so this is pretty concerning for me.

I’ll attach the freeze-frame reports separately so everyone can see the fuel trims, speeds, RPM, load and fuel-pressure data for themselves.

The main symptoms have been:

- Uneven and slightly shaky idle

- Car sometimes rocks at idle almost like it has very mild cams (very Lumpy Tone)

- Passenger-side exhaust is consistently sounding a bit louder, and bubblier/poppy

- Driver-side exhaust sounds noticeably cleaner/smoother/growly (best I can explain it)

- Occasional pops/backfire around 2,500–3,000rpm when having a little bit of a light heavy foot and switching gears from 1st to 2nd

- Constant popping like popcorn while holding the revs at 2,000–3,000 rpm’s

- Low-rpm acceleration can feel heavy or sluggish

- Occasional difficult restarts after the car sits for approximately 5–30 minutes (found this out by the car struggling to turn on after consistently turning it off and on in a long drive through line)

- Cold starts are usually stronger than hot starts, but can still give me issue when cranking over before starting
General Occasional weak starting

- In the past, the engine occasionally stalled after high-speed driving and throwing it in neutral, or while coasting downhill in neutral

- Fuel economy has been approximately 14–15 mpg, even though MOST of my driving is on the freeway in 5th gear with my stock 3.55 Gearing (I know this because I daily the car lot and consistently top off the Car in gas and measure it EVERY TIME by resetting the trip meter)

- Full tank of premium (15.7 Gallons) Last me 230 miles MAX (Mainly Highway Miles)

- The codes always appear while the engine is fully warm and I’m steadily cruising on the freeway (not while idling in my driveway)

This is everything I’ve done trying to fix or narrow down the problem:

- Installed eight new NGK iridium spark plugs

- Gapped the plugs approximately .050–.053 inch

- Replaced the coils with a complete set of used Edelbrock coils off a 99 Cobra That WAS Working

- Swapped the Bank 1 injectors with used set of Bank 1 injectors from another 2003 Mach 1 (24Lb)

- Installed a new fuel pump

- Installed a new fuel filter

- Replaced all four O₂ sensors with new sensors (NTK)
drove around a bit got the code again Swapped the upstream O₂ sensors left-to-right

- Also moved the other O₂ sensors left-to-right during diagnosis

- The problem continued to remain associated with Bank 1

- Swapped the CCRM with one from another 2003 Mach 1

- Cleaned the original IAC then noticed no change also with my idling issue so I ended up, replacing the IAC with a used Lincoln Mark VIII IAC I got from the Junkyard

- Cleaned the MAF using proper MAF cleaner

- Used fuel-system treatment TWICE! (3 month Gap between uses)

- Sprayed brake cleaner around the intake manifold looking for a vacuum leak (Did not notice an obvious idle change during the brake-cleaner test)

- Replaced the passenger-side radio noise suppressor (advice from a friend)

- recently swapped in the MAF from other other 2003 Mach 1 (That WORKS)

The most recent MAF swap happened after the second P0420 just yesterday (August 31st), so I don’t have enough driving time yet to know whether it changed anything, but then again, I’m not sure if it will because if it really was the MAF, then it would be affecting both banks, but we will have to see, it’s more of a why not I guess. But for the most part it has still sounds and feels the same at idle.

The plugs greatly improved the original weakness of power and sluggish starts and cleaning/replacing the IAC from the Lincoln MKVlll helped the stalling, but the uneven idle noise from the passenger-side exhaust end is still noticeably different with occasional popping more consistent condensation, and smoke on cold starts from that side (Bank 1)

I own a set of BBK long-tube headers and a matching BBK catted X-pipe, but I have not installed them yet. I don’t want to install new catalytic converters and possibly damage them if the engine is still running super rich.

At this point I really don’t know what else it could possibly be besides a vacuum leak or some sort maybe but considering that this car is my daily and deeply need to find out what’s wrong with it, I’m willing to spend some money (Nothing Crazy) for a genuinely deep diagnosis from a shop. I don’t want to pay someone just to scan the codes and recommend a MAF or catalytic converter based on the code description. I want somebody to test the fuel pressure mechanically, check pressure after shutdown, inspect the EVAP purge system, evaluate the MAF data, test the injectors and compare the Bank 1 O₂ signals before and after or generally just whatever the procedure might be to crack down on this shit that’s making me go insane!

I would still 110% rather diagnose and repair it myself if possible. I’ve considered buying a smoke machine and compression tester, especially because I can use those tools again. However, I don’t want to keep spending money on tools or parts that won’t actually narrow this problem down.

Based on these symptoms and everything already replaced or swapped:

- Would buying a smoke machine meaningfully help with this specific problem?

- Is a full compression test justifiable?

- What should I test next before paying a shop?

- If I take it in, what specific tests should I require for a proper diagnosis? And how much am I looking at$?

- Could the original rich-running/misfire condition have damaged the Bank 1 catalytic converter and caused the two recent P0420 codes. And how badly do I need to get this fixed before anything else gets fucked up?

- Is there anything else to the 2003–2004 Mach 1 or Ford fuel systems that commonly causes this combination of symptoms?

I’m attaching all six freeze-frame reports along with the list of work completed. I’m looking for a proper direction. The car still runs strong (from what I know) but I’ve always been wanting to overthink everything and not ignore a problem before it turns more severe (talking from experience) so I’m a bit paranoid and just want to fix it as soon as possible so I can make sure that my Mach is not only being as efficient as it possibly can but at its best potential.

I’ve put a lot of time, effort and money into trying to solve this, and I’m honestly reaching the point where I don’t know what else to do. I really love this car and I’m willing to keep it for the long run. I’ve made it to be everything that I’ve ever wanted and I’ve been trying so hard to keep it running correctly, please help me and keeping my baby alive and healthy. I’m more than willing to communicate about any questions or concerns!

Thank you all!

I’m swapping out the blown motor on my 2001 gt and got this donor 99 gt 4.6 and noticed this on the cams should I change em out while I have the engine out or should I be cherry I ain’t sure lmk

Good morning! Any advice on local shops to work on my cobra. Starting a restoration phase. Thank you!

What are the best LED bulbs for smoked headlights? Priced preferably under $175. I can go over if I have to

Im on the fence on buying this 2002 GT. Manual transmission. 240 000 KM (150k miles). Handbreak is dead, radio is dead and the battery is almost dead too. The guy is asking 4000$ CAD for it. This would be a car to play around with. Is the price good or bad ? Should i got for it or bad idea

Thanks alot

Hello, i have decided to go the custom route and buy a universal piping kit for my 2v gt. I found a company called vs racing sold my Motormia. It looks like it has everything i need for a good price, However I might change out the couplers and t-clamps for a more premium version.

I am also planning on building my own power pipe.

My question is anyone have any suggestions on brands/piping that has worked well for yall? any tips and tricks i will encounter while building my setup? I am planning on buying a treadstone tr11 intercooler and of course bov, and maf sensor.