I started the day on my potato laptop due to needing to work out of the house. To my surprise, my laptop had 3 issues:

- The letter C is being pressed permanently
- Scrolling = Zoom and not scroll.
- Any keyboard input outside typing would trigger the new folder shortcut.

I thought this was an old laptop issue, especially since I rarely use it. After around 3-4 mix of soft & hard resets, the issue was resolved.

When I got back home to my PC, I thought that I finally can work on a good device.

To my surprise, the same issues to the dot that happened to my laptop happened also to my PC!

After some investigation, the classic resets, checking if it's really my keyboard (which shouldn't since it is oddly the same key on both issues), I found out that it was my Logitech GHUB all along.

I deleted the GHUB as I don't know how to reset the custom keys in the software but at the same time, I needed to work on stuff already so I don't want to be bothered to research on that. Lo and behold, after the delete, everything is working just fine all over again.

I find it odd though, I don't recall downloading GHUB on my laptop but the same issues arose?

The reason I assume it was the GHUB during troubleshooting was the C key was my input for most of my buttons. Due to me mapping like CTRL + C, CTRL + V, etc. Oddly it was only the C key and not the other buttons that caused issues despite the other button maps.

I ain't so tech savvy to figure out the finer details of this issue. Hoping for explanations and advice on this matter, ty!

I just got a G321 and I can connect it to my pc but it won't pop up in the Logitech hub. If anyone knows how to fix this it would be amazing.

Hello,

I just bought the G PRO x Rapid TKL Hall effect magnetic switches keyboard and was wondering what the polling rate was for this keyboard. On one hand it says 1 ms response time but other people are saying that it supports 8K polling rate ( so 0.125 ms) and wondering where I can change it if it is 8K or if it is just fake news.

I recently got a new laptop and i tried plugging in my g29 and it didnt work. Ive tried plugging the power supply in a different socket and using a different laptop and still nothing. It was working fine before i got my new laptop and i didnt touch it for a month while waiting on my laptop to arrive. The powersupply did stay plugged in during that month

I spent nearly 40 minutes yesterday deleting, not disabling: DELETING! all those 681 BULLSHIT Game profiles (yes, i fucking counted!) that switch my DPI and lighting on my G502 completely at random. And guess what happened after GHub updated today?

ALL OF IT WAS FUCKING BACK! AND FUCKED WITH THE DPI SO MUCH THAT I WAS BARELY ABLE TO FUCKING TASKMASTER-RESTART GHUB TO GET A SENSIBLE DPI BACK!

Because guess what: After it changed, you can manually fiddle with the settings all you want IT WON'T FUCKING CHANGE BACK UNTIL YOU COMPLETELY CLOSED GHUB VIA TASKMASTER!

And people wonder why i disable all automatic updates on everything i own... Its because of this BULLSHIT, that i have to haved time and patience for to fix after each update.

Hello,

I just bought a new keyboard off amazon (PRO x TKL Rapid) and was wondering if this is normal. I was checking out the new features when I went to the device settings and saw that under on-board memory mode that 4% was already used, and that for the M1, M2, and M3 Slot there were blue profiles. When I switch those profiles it just looks like they switch between colors, but I am not sure. This just surprised me because on my superlight I have multiple M slots but only the first one is blue and all the rest are greyed out. Did I get sent a used keyboard or is that just the default settings for this keyboard?

Edit: The reason it was greyed out was because the profiles were disabled, but that is not the case for the keyboard as there is no option for that

recently picked one up and honestly i'm really happy with it! I know that a good chunk of the mouse's weight comes from the battery, so i was wondering if theres any way to trim that down. it seems you can remove it altogether if you use the powerplay mousepad, but at 120 for that, plus the cost of the mouse, i'd rather have just bought a superlight lmao (and then been able to use a bigger mousepad 💀)

anyway, i was wondering if there any good third market solutions whether thats a powerplay-like mousepad or some sort of lighter battery.

Just opened and charged my first set of a50s and I was so excited! I've heard nothing but amazing reviews and it was definitely time to upgrade.

Now, I get nothing except for a couple of seconds I got a screeching static and weird feedback. I'd like to think that I'm pretty good at troubleshooting. I unplugged and plugged back in every cord. I deleted and reinstalled the ghub app and any driver I could find. I did a factory reset. I plugged them in to my PlayStation to see if I somehow torched every USB port on my pc. None of that worked.

Am I doing something wrong or missing a silly step? Or did I just get a bad pair?

Sometimes in the middle of a race my G29 simply decides that it's time to disconnect and reconnect right after, so it calibrates all over again.. during that I usually end up in the wall or hitting another car. I'm not being able to race online because I don't know if I'll be able to finish the race without crashing or hitting anyone. Long races even offline are also not an option (it happened once in the last 5 minutes of an 1 hour race).

Sometimes I can go for hours without any issues, sometimes it happens in 10~20 minutes intervals.

I have tested in all USB ports in the PC, different wall plugs, even bought a new power supply, but it persists.
I bought the G29 less than a year ago but I don't think it is still within the warranty period. I only use it in weekends so it's basically brand new.

Can it be related to the amazing*** G Hub? Any other suggestions?
*absolutely not amazing
*very bad actually
*<insert any bad adjectives for the G Hub here>

The RS50 in LMU is pretty good with the addition of TrueForce. I have like 2,000 hours easily, mostly with Thrustmaster gear.

Like many of you I got bamboozled on the launch of the T598. Especially with the SF100 rim… but the faults and problems with the wheel and lack of software updates had me upset so I went with Logitech which instantly had better FFB.

I tried the T598 just to mess around, and my goodness. They have substantially updated the delivery of the FFB. This 598 base delivers unbelievably clear FFB now. It is extremely response. It’s like they figured out how to use the overdrive feature more effectively. I’d argue it is clearer feedback than the RS50 with true force maxed up. I could not match the time I set at Daytona infield course in WEC LMP2. About 1:38.5 on the TM and 1:38.8 on the RS50.

They better upgrade this firmware on the RS50 quickly and release some new rims that aren’t a crappy slap-it-on this hub no give us a formula or GT style rim proper. Or I’m afraid I’m going to sell this crap off and get Fanatec or something like I shoulda the first time, or a GT Neo with the simagic 9nm base

How do we feel about having the extra two right side mouse buttons on all mice? Particularly in my own selfish desire, the Superlight 2 and/or 2c because it is the lightest but it doesn't have the extra two side buttons. Does it really add that much weight or is it really a problem to add that? If not much weight at all, just make it an option, have there be flat plastic pieces that you can take out to install the buttons on there as you can with the pro 2 ligthspeed. Regarding the pro 2 lightspeed... it's basically a G pro wireless with better battery life, but the weight is the same as a G pro wireless which is atrocious.

So my ghub wasnt working for some reason and i deleted and reinstalled it and it just doesnt reinstall for some reason? Idk someone help pls. (It says Please wait while G Hub downloads btw on the bottom.)

This is my first foray into G Hub with a G502 mouse. As the title alludes to, I can't seem to get the macro to play through the full cycle.

I usually use Razer for my main, but picked this one up cheap as a temp. I built the macro in the same way I do for both my Razer and Corsair mice (see image).

For context, I'm assigning it to a key sequence for Elder Scrolls Online.

The in-game bindings are correct, as I'm able to manually run through the sequence with no issues using my keyboard. Number key "9" switches to the back skill bar, "5" and "4" apply the two buff skills, and "8" switches back to the front skill bar. When I press the mouse button, it will only switch to the back bar ("9") and do the first skill ("5") in the sequence, but then it just stops.

What am I doing wrong?

Just bought the Pro X 2 Lightspeed for $220 to upgrade over my Corsair hs80 RGB wireless, as I want longer range and longer battery life, and heard the sound quality is improved.

I was aware that the mic would be worse but I didn't think it would be that bad, tried blue voice and different presets and EQ's but it is still very poor.

The surround sound's bass is too intense with any EQ, I had to swap out the leather to the velour wished fixed the bass. But the the headset didn't have much better sound then the $170 hs80, and surround off sounds even worse, even after messing with downloaded EQ's. (and windows audio enhancements etc was checked too)

The range and battery life is nice too admittedly.

Wondering if there is something that I have missed?

Hello

I just bought this webcam, at first it was plugged in my monitor KVM with an usb C to A adapter, then I saw this device run in usb 2.0 (high speed).

I tried different ports directly behind my motherboard (TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI), directly in usb-c (port saying SS 10 and 20) and the device still connects in usb2 only while usb-tree says it's superspeed capable.
(I've tried to put an usb stick in the same port and it instantly operate at max speed, so it's not a motherboard issue)

I don't think it's a big deal as usb2 480mbps bandwith is enough to handle the 1080p@30fps but I'm wondering if other ppl have the issue?

Kay so bassicly I got this new computer and downloaded g hub it’s a Mac and everything newest blah blah blah everytime I try to go on it I get a nice loading application if I wait a bit I get a error message I’ve tried everything deleting all files g hub related gone to every troubleshoot site on Logitech help

Is the bug on the g29 wheel fixed yet? I tried to move the wheel and push the pedals and no movement is shown on ghub… I just got the wheel.

Glass pads are a lot of fun to use, but I want a Hall Effect mouse, and the Haze X lanyard doesn't seem to be of good quality. I'm going to buy a Logitech, but I'm worried about

I saw some reviewers and use s having no issue but some of them does.

Btw If i exprerinced issue will Logitech help me with warranty?

After using my ASTRO A40 2011 MLG Edition for more than 15 years, I finally decided to ditch the cables and go wireless with the ASTRO A50 Gen 5.

I've always loved the A40's warm, natural and realistic sound that is PERFECT for competitive FPS games even to this day!

Unfortunately, I'm very disappointed with the A50 Gen 5's sound. It feels unnatural, almost metallic and sometimes painful. I'm hearing too many things at once, which makes the sound overwhelming and fatiguing.

Honestly, all I wanted was the same sound signature I love from my 2011 A40s, but wireless. 😅

I've tried several EQs, including GadgetryTech's, but none worked for me.

Can any of you competitive FPS players recommend an EQ for the A50 Gen 5 that can get me as close as possible to the sound signature of the old A40s? 🤔

I'll be using the A50 Gen 5 exclusively on PS5 Pro, mainly for competitive FPS games like COD and BF6, with some single player gaming as well.

I'm not looking for an ultra-competitive "footstep EQ." I mainly want that warm, natural, non-fatiguing A40 sound, while retaining good positional audio.

Any recommendations, especially from people who've used both headsets, would be greatly appreciated! 🙏

I don't remember exactly when it started, but my G29 stopped being detected from G Hub and other games, even joy.cpl detects the inputs, but the app that should doesn't.

I've already tried plug on other ports, reinstal the software, instal older software, nothing happened.

G29 Firmware: 164.1.11
G Hub: 2026.5.939708

RaceRoom (FIA challenge) only the steering wheel works

Assetto Corsa, everything works

G Hub, nothing works

Before I explain the actual problem, I'll clarify my setup for context:

My speakers are connected to my laptop via micro-USB to take advantage of G-hub control, and to my Nintendo Switch 2 via audio jack to a switch 2 dock USB port.

The issue:

After initially using my switch 2 during a session and then going back to my laptop, my speakers will then start making these weird popping/crackling sounds at random times, and it's VERY frequent. I don't know if the G560 is supposed to be connected to multiple sources at once, so that could be the problem. But if it isn't, then I don't know what the problem might be.

If anyone can help me with this, that would be AWESOME 🙏

For some time now, my Logitech G Pro X Superlight 2 has been experiencing a strange input delay. Sometimes the mouse also feels like it has a slight “floating” or “swimming” effect, and overall the cursor feels less responsive.
Another issue is that the mouse feels significantly faster than it normally does, even though my DPI is set to 400, which is the same DPI I have always used. It feels as if the DPI is higher than 400, despite Logitech G HUB showing 400 DPI.
I haven’t intentionally changed my sensitivity or DPI settings, so I’m not sure what is causing this. The issue started recently and makes the mouse feel completely different compared to how it used to. Please help me

Hello guys, I have an issue with my mouse. After a 70 cm drop, the left-click button broke in half. Everything else works fine, so I thought the best thing I could do is to print the broken piece. The issue is that I'm unable to find the correct file. I've tried looking for it on the internet, but I couldn't find it.

I would be extremely thankful for any advice (or the file itself) on where I should look for it.

I do not have a 3D printer myself, but my sister has one at school.