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Since the gt7 update with full force fanatec dd pro has this glitch where the wheel goes possessed. It delivers absolute maximum force in a random direction instantly and randomly. Maybe once every few hours. It’s relentless. Pausing the game does not disable ffb, so you have to hold the wheel with one hand and turn the wheel base off.

(If on a rig you can let go, but mines anchored to a table and I fear letting it go will break the brackets or hurt the wheel)

Needless to say it immediately ruins your race (adios the podium I was certainly going to get coming from last) and beyond that it literally hurt my wrist. Like 15 minutes later it’s still aching. These dd wheels are dangerous when they aren’t under control. I’ve been wanting to put my gf’s dad who’s 75 and used to race and build indie cars in the 60’s into gt7 in vr, but I’m not at all comfortable doing that. If the wheel did what it did to me just now, but to him instead, it might literally break his wrist. Absolutely not acceptable fanatec. Fix this before you get fucking sued into the ground and ruin someone’s health.

And btw this issue has happened to me before full force, it’s just WAY more common now.

Fix it.

Hey everybody, this is my first time posting on here so please excuse my incompetence.

I recently had a power surge, and, despite all my sim stuff being connected to a surge protector, my brake on my CSL Elite V2 Pedals is not working. I tried replacing the load cell, still doesn’t work. I tried connecting directly to my PC using USB, still doesn’t work. I tried connecting the RJ12 to my DD Pro + and it still didn’t work. I also tried recalibrating in the fanatec app and in the game controllers settings window.

No matter what I try, it shows 0% input on the brake. The clutch and gas work perfectly fine.

Does anybody have experience with a similar situation?

Which parts should I look to buy to fix this?

Is Fanatec usually good about providing replacements for this kind of thing?

I appreciate the help :).

Hi all, I'm just getting started on the journey so sorry if there are some dumb questions. I am going to be sharing the seat with my 5 year old son, so please view it through this lens!!!

I am in the process of getting a Playseat Challenge DD F1 edition (mostly cos it can be folded away and not in the middle of the room!) but now I need to add some hardware to it!

I was thinking of:
CSL Elite Steering Wheel Porsche Vision GT
ClubSport DD+ (18 Nm) FullForce
ClubSport Pedals V3 Inverted

I was also thinking of adding a shifter mount (http://thepartshop.co/products/playseat-challenge-dd) and a H pattern at a later stage.

I will start out using this just on GT7 and a few other games on a PS5 (i'll be sharing the setup with my 5 year old who is SUPER keen to get into it) and am not sure if we will move into iRacing as I will need to build a PC and all the other bits, but it's a maybe later.

What would you be suggesting?

Thanks !!

Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3
+Fanatec ClubSport DD
Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ V1.5
Fanatec Club Sport Formula v3 wheel
Oplite R8 FURy cockpit

Any suggestion/advice more than welcomed

I have spent over 4K on Fanatec products over the last few years and have had an excellent experience so far. Ordered items, received what I ordered rapidly.

Until I ordered a Porsche rim recently…they shipped the wrong wheel. Not just like a different finish or the Porsche wheel rim, but a different size and wheel altogether. It doesn’t fit my endurance button module. Immediately requested a return and provided pics showing the wrong item shipped (an item I’ve never ordered from them) and they have been reviewing the return.

Mind you, this is their mistake 100%. I get it that the wrong product will go out the door from time to time, but they are just sitting on my money and I have zero recourse to get the correct item other than sitting on my hands waiting on their review. Get it together. If you want high end customers to stick with your products and recommend them to others, handle your business. Utter rubbish.

Hi guys, i updated the latest firmware and since then, the game randomly loses power. No acceleration and after 15 seconds, it comes back on. What do I do? Do I need to update the brake system as well? I don't want to disassemble and connect it via USB

Help please

My Fanatec CSL DD 8nm also did some funny things yesterday. Out of nowhere it was Steering to one side till the limit like a gost is steering, not really hard, but i didn't wanted to hold against it, so restarted the Base and the Race. Same after 30-60 sec. At some point I had control but no ffb. Restarted the Xbox and ACC same. Restarted everything again same, i was already thinking, ok, i have to send it in. Did it again but started PMR and the problem was gone.

This all happened at the end of an 4-5h session with almost no breaks in between.

Really weird!!!

Also newest firmware update last weekend

Hello guys

I’m using a Fanatec wheel with the QR2 Lite quick release. As you can see in the photo, when I push the wheel onto the base shaft, the pull-sleeve mechanism doesn't slide completely forward into its fully closed position.
Despite this, the wheel is rock solid, doesn't wobble, and is fully recognized by the Fanatec software with no connection issues.
Is it normal?

Thanks for the help!

Hello everyone, I wanted to buy a new steering wheel, I mainly play LMU and Raceroom. So far I bought the Formula V2 and the CSL Hub+ 320mm wheel rim. They're both really nice and I was thinking about buying the CSL GT3 , those rotary encoders could be useful I think. Well , I wanted to know from you guys if the paddles with the rocker are better than the ones on the CSL Hub . The formula V2 has magnetic paddles and they are so good to use, while the CSL is very functional , but the gear shifts are somewhat less tactile and satisfying compared to the formula rim. Is the GT3 wheel worth it ? Do you suggest buying a magnetic paddle mod for it ? T. I. A.

Suche Adapter für meine Simmagic Haptics Mororen an Fanatec Podium Pedale, könnt ihr mir sagen wo ich sowas herbekommen kann?

Mir würde auch Datei für 3d Drucker reichen.

Sagt bitte Bescheid wenn ihr nen Tipp habt.

Schönen Gruß

Hi everyone,
I recently ran into an issue with my Fanatec Podium Pedals.
I was trying to remove the screws to adjust the faceplate, and unfortunately the screws became completely stripped in the process. I wasn’t expecting this to happen, especially since I was using the appropriate tool and was being careful when removing them.
I’ve already opened an RMA/support ticket with Fanatec, but I’m wondering how long they usually take to respond.
I’ve also seen several other people reporting the same issue with these screws, which makes me a little concerned. If Fanatec sends me a replacement set of pedals, I’m worried that I might end up with exactly the same problem again.
At this point, I’m honestly even hesitant to try removing the screws again because I don’t want to damage another set.
Has anyone here experienced the same issue with the Podium Pedals?
If you received a replacement, were the screws any different or did Fanatec provide a solution to prevent this from happening again?

I have this for sale.

Yes, you're reading post number 2,171 about the latest Fanatec Firmware update (1.9.1) and FullForce.

I'm using a PS5, playing GT7 using a GT DD Pro base (8nm brick) w/ Vision GT wheel. Since this update I've really enjoyed the "feeling" the wheel/base are now giving me. I can feel every paver of the curbs and every bump in the asphalt. However, I have also encountered the dreaded and completely random "wheel of death" where the wheel decides to spin hard left. Last night was the worst, 3 incidents in Daily Races (driver rating ruined), where I was fighting the wheel, turning it off/on and then trying to finish the race (now from last).

Does Fanatec have any recommended settings until this new, new firmware fix is rolled out?

Here are my settings Last Night / Now (hoping these small changes help):

SEN - AUTO / No Change

FFB - 95% / No Change

NDP - 25% / No Change

NFR- 15% / No Change

NIN - OFF / No Change

INT - 10 / INT - 7

FEI - 100 / No Change

FUL - 95% / FUL - 89%

FOR - 100% / No Change

SPR - 100% / No Change

DPR - 100% / No Change

Do I turn the FUL down more, like 25% - 30%? The only reason I changed INT is to get more feedback around the center of steering (reduce deadzone). AI says I should lower the FUL to 25%, NDP to 15%, NFR to OFF, then INT to 3.

I made no changes on the PS5, but have read where others turn down the vibration (from 150) and no longer experience issues. Seems like that's anecdotal as the base was updated and is presenting the problem, not the PS5.

The cord to my wheelbase got caught and ripped out of my ClubSport V3 pedals. It took one of the contacts in the RJ12 jack with it. The pin is bent up out of its slot, and the corner of the plastic housing is chipped off. Photo attached.

The good news is the board itself looks okay. The jack is still sitting flat; the solder joints look intact, and I can't see any lifted pads. It's just the connector that's toast.

So it should be a quick job for someone with a decent iron. Desolder the 6P6C right-angle jack and drop in a new one. I've got replacement jacks arriving Thursday. I could probably fumble through it myself, but I'd rather not learn desoldering on a proprietary board I can't just buy another one of if I cook the pads.

Two things I'm hoping someone can help with:

1. Anyone in LA know a shop that does actual board-level work? Everything I'm finding is phone screens and laptop batteries. I'm on the west side, but I'll drive for someone good.
2. Has anyone actually gotten Fanatec support to sell them a V3 control board recently? There's a support article saying they'll do it through a ticket, but I don't know if that still holds up in practice.

Haven’t tested much on other sims, but primarily I race on f1. During races the ffb will randomly cut out for a very short interval (maybe 10-15 seconds) and then will continue working same as always. While this is happening there’s zero resistance to the wheel.

I have a clubsport dd plus that is maybe just shy of a year old. Formula v3 wheel. All software and firmware are up to date. In the app I have the strength turned down to 12 nm, I’ve never maxed it out.

Has anyone had this issue or know what may be going on?

Bonjour, je trouve bizarre que je sois obligé de refaire la configuration automatique tout les jours de ma pedale de frein load cell relier à un CLS DD. 8Nm. Est-ce que c’est normal ?

I am able to set my favorite screen in the app and it shows up on the wheel. But then once I get into the game, it disappears and just the gear and speed shows on the wheel just like the old one. I can then open the app back up and set it to show on the wheel again which it does. However, after that one race it goes back to the same gear and speed. Does anyone else have this issue or know of a fix?

I can play games but with time to time itd say "caution update the firmware" and then i would just continue racing i tried updating but when open the app my wheel cannot be detected? And now it just doesnt work only telling me to update the software

I'm looking for custom skins for the front of the Clubsport RS wheel. I bought some for the CSL GT3 Wheel from lovely stickers but the pre made ones for the Clubsport RS wheel don't float my boat. I've looked on Etsy but nothing there.

Any recommendations for other sites to try for a custom facia ?

Buongiorno a tutti, Da qualche giorno mi è stato regalato un fanatec gran turismo dd pro, sono ovviamente entrambi nuovi e dotati di fabbrica del QR2, però non appena collego il volante mi appare un messaggio come in foto. Siccome non sono un esperto ed ho paura di fare danni, ci sarebbe qualcuno che possa darmi qualche consiglio su come procedere ? Anche magari su che driver o software utilizzare ? Grazie mille a tutti.

I am happy to report that adding the out of the box Simagic Haptics to the Podium Pedals was very easy and straight forward. The challenge of unscrewing some of the pedal components did present some issues along the way, but other than that it was a very easy process.

I haven't had too much run time yet, but the haptics along with the simhub are great so far. I think having a more obvious feel of ABS is really going to help me. When you order your haptics, be sure to get the actual haptics, the control box, the power supply and the data to USB connection. My only complaint right now is how bright the green led is on the control box.

I just need some black and gold Fanatec haptics to match the pedals.

(The shinier part is how much the QR2 lite has shifted.)

I recently bought the QR2 Lite base side about two weeks ago and within that time the wheel has disconnected four times. Each time I have to loosen the piece, push it back and tighten the bolts again. I’ve tried tightening them a bit more but not too much to avoid breaking it. The instructions show a maximum of 8Nm on the bolts and I only have an Allen key. Am I missing something?

I know some of you might suggest I buy the metal one, but I’m curious if there are any other solutions besides replacing the part.

If anyone has any interesting advice or recommendations, please let me know.

SOLUTION: The base side QR was shifting away from the USB-C port and then disconnecting. Maybe because the plastic QR2 but cant be sure.
Anyway big thanks to Fanatec supoort for being so supportive and quick answering.
Definitely recommend.

This happened yesterday and ripped my thumb back. It's also shut down a few times during a race.

I've seen others have this problem since the latest update.

Fanatec said they need to replace the wheel base, but isn't it a software issue?

Thoughts from those with same issue please.