I'm currently replacing valve steam seals on my '91 Yamaha Tenere due to high oil consumption.

While I've done this before, these new seals seem suspiciously loose especially compared to how though the old ones are to remove. I can simply push them on by hand.

Somewhat hard to see, but I can turn them on the valve guide with just two fingers.

Are these too loose or am I just being paranoid?

Thanks in advance!

Hi guys,

This is my first time working on an engine. It's a Kawasaki z800 and my piston had a meeting with a valve. Not sure if the valve clearance was wrong or if it jumped timing or something else. If it did jump timing is it possible only 1 piston hit 1 valve? My idea going forward was a new cylinder head + new piston and timing chain. The cylinder itself somehow is not that badly damaged, only some minimal scratches around the top, is it too bad? The engine ran for 15 minutes after it happened just getting home. Is it worth fixing this engine or just get a donor engine? There is not one available at the moment on the market so I would like to try fixing it. Any help/thoughts is much appreciated!

Hey everyone! I have a 2011 Scion xD / 1.8 / 2ZR-FE engine designation.

What’s a reliable source you’ve used to purchase cylinder heads? I see a few places but obviously want to make sure the supplier is legit 💀

Thanks!

I belive it’s done but just wanna know if anyone thinks otherwise
These are the only two cylinders with damage

I’m looking to get this temperature gauge working in my 72 Cutlass but I can’t find a sensore that I think would work with the guage. All the sensor/sendors I am seeing are for the on/off light on the dash. This sensor from jegs is similar to the one that came off. Do they sell a sort of universal unit at the parts store that I can buy?

Removing wrapped downpipe from car with valve covers off, many things I should’ve or could’ve done. Got fiberglass all over the rear bank, gonna try to clean it as best I can. Any tips for that, and maybe how fkd am I in terms of fiberglass in oil passages and bearing clearance, I’m not gonna be able to clean all of it…

So I bought a 1990 K5 blazer from my uncle. It has a 383 stroker that was built by a shop in Texas. The block is from a 80-87 suburban but other than that, I don’t know many details. It’s got a mild unknown cam and an HEI distribution as well as stock cast heads. I’m wanting to put some aluminum heads on it to wake it up a little bit but I’m not sure what is a good option to throw on. I don’t really want to tear it apart just for the fact it runs good great as it is. Just looking for a more street oriented head.

Okay this is a 2jz out of a is300 recently purchased like this as blown up, he told me this happened when starting the car for thevfirst time after a rebuild , it’s a turbo build noticed he had stage 2 cams with a stock headgasket here’s the damage

Look. I know there are lots of posts. And there never seems to be consensus about appropriate methods regarding scotch brite or sharpening blocks or just days on days of acetone and plastic scrapers. But seriously. What gives.

Heads and block pass with straight edge and feelers on all assessments by OEM service book standard. Not gonna have them cut. I've spent hours with plastic scrapers and acetone on the heads and a razor and acetone on the iron block. This was the second head, and I quit early. The other head looks a bit better. But for real. I am beat. I have a headache from the fumes and my hands hurt.

3.4L Toyota from an '01 Tacoma, 250,000 on it. Was told when I bought it that it had a mild head gasket leak and would need coolant every couple weeks in the winter. Well, silly me didn't run all my diagnostic before just starting taking it apart me cause it was was due for a timing belt anyway. I cracked it open and we have even carbon on all pistons. Soooo... none of them were steam cleaned like I was expecting to find. Maybe I did all this for nothing.

I just wanna get these back on and be done with it. It's hot out this week and I am having a certified bad time. What is gonna get this last bit of stain off, because the scrapers and acetone are NOT cutting it.

Hey guys , im getting ready to assemble my honda b series but theres a bit of rust ? I think its rust ... anyways ... the engine block just got cleaned so im wondering if theres any ways to Remove this stuff from the cylinder walls ?

Had a head gasket leak and pulled the heads to find these gouges on the short block from the last time the heads were off (not my handy work). To clarify they are on the top right of the image. About 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock.

The linear gouge catches a finger nail, the on closer to the coolant jacket is even deeper by a little bit.

I have no problem buying a short block for peace of mind and to get a completely flat surface as this one is fitting .0015 just barely under the middle where the cylinders join which I believe is over allowed warp for these blocks. The service manual said .0019in on the warp, but when I converted the mm warp it actually can out to .00019in so I’m not sure which is correct.

Just trying to get a consensus on what y’all would do as this is the first time I’m doing a head gasket.

Currently rebuilding my 302. My dumb ass pounded on the harmonic balancer and realized I should have used the right tool.

Well, luckily the bottom end is still exposed. I removed the thrust bearing on the crankshaft and inspected the half I could get off and everything was ok, no cracks no bends.

Should I run it or replace? I'm really tired of going back and forth on this rebuild.

Edit: I've decided to just reorder the thrust bearing. 40$ ain't too bad