My PC is a Dell Latitude E6430.

For a week now the PC has been giving those scratches when turning on, otherwise the PC works perfectly, but I’m afraid that this is a first warning of a possible death xd

If anyone knows what that is, why it happens and what I can do to solve it, I would be very grateful :)

Crazy how I’m now having to make a part 2 of this but there’s literally nothing else I can do…

Hi

I bought an Alienware AW2725Q from Quzo (retailer in the UK) in June 2025 for £650.

Blue smudges and lines appeared on the panel. I followed every step Dell asked for — Pixel Refresh, built-in self-test, and their recommended cleaning protocol (including the IPA method they later provided). The fault remained. Dell’s technical team accepted it as a defect and approved a replacement under warranty.

The replacement arrived damaged (blue lines, sharp screen edges, brown gunk, scratched stand, damaged box) and has been sitting in my hallway since the 13th of August waiting for collection.

Dell have now completely gone back on their earlier assessment. They’re saying the original blue smudges “do not constitute a functional defect”, are only visible at an acute angle, and don’t impact performance. They’ve also admitted that even if they send yet another replacement, they cannot guarantee it will be free of the same blue lines and smudges. This effectively admits it’s an ongoing problem with these panels.

From a customer’s POV It is either going to be as described and advertised, or it isn’t. I’m not going to compromise on these blue smudges and lines just because Dell have decided to reclassify them, I quote - “the smudges reported do not constitute a functional defect and do not impact the monitor's performance or viewability. The marks are external in nature and are only visible when viewed at an acute angle.” - Prateek P Nayak (Dell's Advanced Resolution Services team)

That is ridiculous.

There is a clear fault with the panel that was never mentioned in the product listing. I would not have bought it if this issue had been disclosed. It feels like the product was sold with a known or undisclosed defect.

The retailer is now saying that because Dell’s warranty process is still open and they’re offering another refurbished unit, they won’t arrange a collection or refund. They’ll only look at it again if Dell formally confirms the claim has reached an impasse.

I’m stuck in the middle after more than a full month of this. As the customer it’s completely unfair and unacceptable that I’m being passed back and forth with no resolution.

I don’t want another refurbished replacement. I just want a refund and for both monitors to be collected.

I’m not going to be pushed around or bullied into accepting yet another refurbished replacement..

I’ve attached 3 photos, first 2 are the latest email I received from “Dell's Advanced Resolution Services team” and the last one if from the retailer.

I hope the community sees this. Please upvote and share so more people are aware of how these cases are being handled.

Link from Part 1: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/s/vAiYV1wt4p

Any advice?

I just got a Latitude 5520 used on ebay, and so far I love it. The battery doesn’t have much time left, each full charge lasts less than an hour and a half. I assumed I would have to buy a replacement battery anyways, but I’m having trouble finding the right one. Everything i’m seeing on the 63wh battery for this laptop, which is supposed to be the one that lasts “up to 14 hours,” is pitiful. Either the product description says it holds a charge for a max of like 4 hours, or the reviews say it lasts anywhere from 3-5 hours. This is consistent across every battery i’ve found.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a battery that will last longer? If 8 hours of moderate use is unreasonable for this laptop, what’s the closest I can get? I am a college student and in most of my classes i’m not able to plug the laptop in, so it’s important that the charge lasts longer.

I have a dell precision 7510 and before i used to get like 30-45 fps on sekiro shadows die twice on 900p high graphics, dark souls remastered at 1080p 60 fps, roblox at 70-90 fps on 1080p high graphics, but yesterday my mouse only detected my clicks and my movement so tried many things to get it work again, one thing i tried was restoring my Bios settings to default but that didn't work, after like an hour I finally got my mouse working again and then went to play sekiro again and saw i got less 10-13 fps now, dark souls 25 fps and roblox 40 fps, how do i fix this? (Specs are Nvidia quadro m2000m i7 6920hq 16gb ram)

Hola tengo una duda acabo adquirir está laptop dell y el teclado es de estados Unidos sin embargo e intentado usar varios comandos para utilizar la letra ñ y poner el signo de interrogación(¿) pero no funciona ninguno que puedo hacer ?

I bought my father a Inspiron 3582 years back, and it's starting to slow down, mostly disk wise. While I maxed his ram out, I never got him a SSD and instead left him to the HDD, and now when I get called for "the computer not working", it's the HDD disk doing 100% because it's updating or a malware scan. I want to add in a SSD and see if I can throw windows onto it to speed it up. It's been a few years since I have done it, and want to make sure I get the right one. According to the Dell service page, it needs:

One M.2 2280 solid-state drive, Class 40, Up to 256 GB

Would this drive meet that spec?

https://www.amazon.com/fanxiang-S500-Pro-Internal-Compatible/dp/B0B55SWRCY

Thanks in advance!

I just ordered a used one, and besides using it for computing, I also plan to play some games like GTA 5, GTA 4, and emulators. I've heard it runs a bit hot, although I plan to use it in my room with the air conditioning on, and if necessary, order a cooling station to keep it cool. For those who have used it for gaming, what do you think? Is it true that it overheats? Have you done anything to prevent it? I'd appreciate your feedback.

yeah, suspect the drive/CMOS battery to be dead. error code: (0x7b)

specs: 16 Gb DDR4 SODIMM Sc Hynix, intel I5 8th gen (U- series I think), Samsung PM991 254 Gb (I think) everything else: refurbished Dell Latitude 5300. died after date and time error from BIOS.

Hey, im looking for help with my problem and how to fix it, I own this laptop for like 10 months and I got into problems, like system crashes (everything stops and the commited ram jumps to almost the limit) and I am only using discord and the dell programs and the ram is at 80 percent, the only problem is the ram, could I like optimize it or am I cooked? Drivers are updated and I don’t think it’s helping

Current BIOS : 1.15
latest BIOS : 1.20
i've been using the same bios fr a yr as it gives solid 5hrs on normal usage. Upon troubleshooting, the dell tech support team claims it a software issue as i haven't updated the windows OS also (did once, experienced battery drain to 4hr the next day so uninstalled it.) and they aren't approving a replacement even its under HW protection warranty. Looking for ideas

Any g15 5535 users ?

Ok so I have 3 mouses and my laptop (dell precision 7510) has 4 USB ports that let me connect them all, but for some reasons if i connect any of my mouses into any of the ports, the laptop only detects their clicks but not when I move the cursor, the laptop's trackpad does move the cursor so idk what's wrong with mine

EDIT: Confirmed – it works! I bought the Dell MSA20 and can confirm that its quick-release / click-in system is directly compatible with the Dell S2725DS / S2725HS / S2425HS. The monitor clicks into the MSA20 without needing the separate VESA adapter plate.

Hi everyone,

does anyone know if the Dell MSA20 monitor arm’s quick-release / click-in mounting system is directly compatible with the Dell S2725DS?

I know the S2725DS supports VESA mounting, but I’m specifically wondering whether I can attach the monitor directly to the MSA20 using Dell’s quick-release mechanism, without using the separate VESA adapter plate.

Has anyone tried this combination or is currently using an MSA20 with an S2725DS?

Thanks!

I have a Dell P3225QE monitor, and I really like the smooth height adjustment of the original Dell stand. However, the factory base takes up far too much desk space.

I’m not looking for a conventional VESA monitor arm. What I want to do is:

* Keep the original Dell upright/height-adjustable column

* Remove only the large tabletop base

* Attach the bottom of the original column to a C-clamp at the edge of my desk

After disassembling the base, I found that the column connects through:

* A removable keyed/irregularly shaped cast-metal boss

* One center captive thumbscrew

* A small round metal retaining plate

* Four small screws around the plate

I originally thought the removable metal boss and round plate might be reusable directly, without needing another large metal platform. It looks like all I should need is a small adapter that connects this Dell interface to a suitable C-clamp.

I know similar products already exist for other OEM stands, such as the VIVO MOUNT-SG04 for Samsung stands and the ASUS ROG desk clamp kit. I also found someone who made a 3D-printed clamp adapter for a different 32-inch Dell stand, but I haven’t found anything specifically for the P3225.

Has anyone:

1. Converted a recent Dell P-series stand to a desk clamp while keeping the original column?

2. Found a compatible off-the-shelf clamp, adapter, STL, STEP, or CAD file?

3. Reused this Dell metal boss and four-screw retaining plate in another mounting solution?

4. Found other Dell models that use the same bottom interface?

I only have basic hand tools, so ideally I’m looking for something that can be purchased and bolted together without drilling or welding. I would also be willing to order a small custom 3D-printed or CNC-machined adapter if a direct-fit product doesn’t exist.

The monitor itself weighs roughly 6.6 kg / 14.6 lb, so I want the final solution to be properly supported and safe for long-term use.

I’ve attached photos of the original base, the underside, the four screws, the removable round plate, the keyed metal boss, and the socket at the bottom of the Dell column.

Any ideas, compatible parts, measurements, or examples would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi Folks, just bought a dell vostro 5590 that i was gonna try fix and give to my mom. The seller mentioned that it was showing 3 amber 3 white which what i understand is a bios recovery issue. So i tried to do the ctrl and esc method to try and recover the bios but what i noticed is it tries to reboot a few times and goes to the same error. I tried clearing the cmos, tried a display test (which works) tried different usb ports but nothing sadly. Anyone any ideas?

Dell G15 5530, I am getting absolutely no sound at all from my laptop. The audio is 100% dead — not a single beep, click, or sound comes through the speakers.

Here is what I have already tried:

• Clean Windows Reinstall: Formatted and reinstalled Windows completely fresh, but still completely silent.
• Audio Drivers: Installed, uninstalled, and reinstalled official audio drivers multiple times from scratch.
• BIOS Update: Updated the BIOS to the latest version available.
• Hardware Diagnostics: Ran full diagnostic tests on startup (ePSA / SupportAssist). Everything passes with flying colors and reports zero issues/no errors found.

Even though diagnostics claim everything is fine, Windows has completely zero audio output.

Has anyone experienced this exact issue where hardware tests pass fine but there is totally zero sound? If anyone has a working fix or knows what is going on, please help me out!

I have a Dell latitude e6430 running on MX linux and I've tried with Optimus on and off and reinstalling drivers and such but no luck with getting a display out to my monitor does anyone know what could be the issue?

😂 The Dell 3180 laptop has fairly limited specifications — especially its small built-in storage — but I solved that by using an affordable 240GB 2.5‑inch SATA SSD connected via USB, bought from an online marketplace. Windows 10 actually runs surprisingly fast and responsive on this device, though switching over did come with compatibility issues: the built‑in keyboard behaves differently than expected and the built‑in speakers don’t work properly, likely due to missing proper driver support for this model on Windows 10. Fortunately, the keyboard problem can easily be worked around using an external keyboard, whether it’s a wireless 2.0 model or a standard USB keyboard.