I must have been watching too many Reddit videos of people with shot engines, because I’m now paranoid about this clicking on the B48 F39 X2 (98k miles) I just got. Is this just normal injector ticking, or something concerning?

should i be worried? i’ve had the car for 3k miles and it’s already got glitter in the oil.

I’ve changed the reservoir cap already and still getting this problem should I change the whole reservoir next?

M4 competition 25 I’m noticing at idle at a red light ive feeling a little vibration and I actually can kinda hear a little pop from the engine very very faintly. Car has 10k miles on it… anyone know what this could be? I’m going to bring it to bmw… but want your guys thoughts. Car drives perfectly when I’m not idling

can I just do the front wheel? i read somewhere on a z4 it has to be the back? does it cause timing issues?

Hi All- Just wrapping up a new project on a 2011 328xi that had had the fuel pump hose disconnect issue that's somewhat common with these. Knocked out plugs, diffs, transfer case and a few other odds and ends maintenance-wise. When I had the structural plate (?) off the belly, I took the pics here. Cleaned both sides of the plate and zipped it back up. Now I get a little seep from the two forward holes in that plate. I think I removed the crud that was holding the pan drips on the underside of that plate. dammit. I've driven maybe 50 miles and had it idling after a p/s pump job, so not pushed it hard to generate that seeping.

So: how bad is this leaking? I've seen a video or 2 on how to do the job on an x-drive and...I'd like to avoid it if at all possible. Is this really bad or do I have some time? Is there anything I can do in the interim? Like snug up the bolts I can reach or would that make it worse? Any help appreciated. And if I'm off base assuming it's the oil pan, please let me know.

Also last pic is LF shock. Safe to say it's exploded? RR is similar.

2012 BMW 535i xDrive

Any possibility to code the fog lights to work in conjunction with the turn signals using bimmercode, etc?

Had this warning back when I needed new brakes because they were warped and needed replacement.
It was this along with the brake light on the dash board and warning of needing to replace rear brakes .

I installed a full set of powerstop drilled brakes last weekend and installed both sensors that were needed .
I was able to take off the brake light by resetting .Just this warning system about collision hasn’t went away .

Any idea on how to take it off or what the issue might be

Hey, I bought this Meyle expansion tank since I’m swapping the oil filter housing, water pump, and cooling system parts on my 16 340i this weekend. There’s some leftover plastic strands hanging out on the new tank - particularly the level. I’ll try to remove them but they’re deep in there. Should I be worried about plastic debris getting into the cooling system?

Hi everyone I'm in the process of Timeserting my M54. I'm using the VacMotorsports kit which comes with the 1015 tools, but the longer inserts. I just want to make sure I'm doing this right. As you can see, the first hole is deeper (about 6mm), and the holes were like that stock (as they appear to be in other block photos, a few of them are like that, for alignment Dowels I assume?). I used the counterbore tool for 2nd photo. Obviously it isn't as deep. I have read over and over again that the threads should start at 6mm deep. But my counterbore has not cut them down 6mm, so it'll start before that. Also, it appears the tap makes contact with the lip itself. Will this be an issue? I'll be tapping it with the alignment plate on and the 1/2" bushing of course...just showing this for perspective. Is it acceptable to tap as is/is this what others have done? Just looking for some feedback and/or advice.

This is a little long, but I’d like to capture all of the steps I’ve taken so far to paint the picture of what is happening. For some background, I picked up a lower mileage (25k mi) 2022 X7 M50i a few months ago.

My wife rode over a curb exiting a shopping center. When the tire dropped back down, it threw a Chassis error. After jacking the rear up, I saw the the plastic ball stud on the height sensor lever arm had snapped. I elected to replace both rear sensors with new BMW sensors and installed metal ball studs as well. This all went without issue.

A few weeks later I felt it would be prudent to replace both front sensors as well, so all sensors would be at similar lifespan. Completed the swap and all was good, other than the front riding a little high. Vehicle did not report any issues. I was out of time for that weekend, so decided to wait until the following weekend to calibrate the VDP to the sensors via ISTA.

Executed the calibration the procedure in ISTA. Upon start up, it threw a Chassis error. I reviewed the fault codes and began diagnosing. The codes steered me to the front right corner being an issue.

- I reviewed live voltage for all four corners and all are within the expected 0.5v-4.5v range. I disconnected the front right lever arm and moved it through its range and see a smooth voltage swing. I do see this corner having lower voltage than the others, however I do not suspect the sensor is the issue.

- I probed the sensor connector and see 4.99V for the supply circuit.

- I checked continuity on the signal wire from the connector at the sensor back to the connector at the VDP and have continuity, so there isn’t a break in the wire. This should have been obvious considering I watched the signal voltage swing in ISTA.

- I looked at the calculated ride heights in ISTA and see -3338mm for the front right corner. This does not change if I move the sensor lever arm (even though the voltage does change).

My conclusion at that point was that the VDP was faulty. I figured I must have shorted that corner’s signal circuit at some point and killed a component within that circuit, causing that math channel to die and just report the -3338mm I was seeing.

I sourced a used replacement VDP from a 2022 X7 M50i on eBay. Swapped it in and programmed/coded it. Happy days! No more errors, I was seeing a normal ride height in ISTA again for the FR corner. I drove it around the block and all was good, no errors. Pulled it into the garage to have a flat spot to calibrate the VDP to the sensors. Went ahead and did so, and upon start up it immediately threw the Chassis error again and I am seeing the same symptoms in ISTA.

Need some direction on where to go with this and where to investigate. Has anyone gone down a similar rabbit hole?

Hey so a few days ago my ‘22 M5 started making a few distinct rattling noises towards the end of a long (3 hour) drive. As far as I can tell they all started at the same time so I’m hoping they have the same cause.

The first noise is a constant rattle coming from the driver’s side near the exhaust which you can hear at the start of the video. I then measured the oil through iDrive and you can hear that noise gets louder while that runs.

The second noise happens intermittently but very often while moving. I tried to see if revving in neutral would produce the noise, but no dice. I would describe this noise as a scraping, honestly it sounds like shaking a can of bolts, and it happens sometimes while downshifting in the 1-2k rpm range, and sometimes while up shifting from a stop for the first 3 gears or so. Naturally I wasn’t able to get a recording of it, but I’m pretty sure it’s also coming from the driver’s side towards the rear. This sound is much… worse, at least to my ear.

The noises persist regardless of drive settings and are quite loud. The car is not throwing any new codes in Bimmerlink nor any warnings or errors in iDrive.

Worth noting car is under CPO warranty and I’ll definitely have it checked out, but after my old 550 spent 7 straight months in the shop last year with a warranty issue, I’m wondering if it’s okay to roll around like this until my next oil change in 2 months.

Thanks in advance

Is this set up correct to change for winter setup, I currently run 22inch wheels with staggered setups switching to square set up with 20inch wheels, I don’t wanna go with the switching tires every season would
Rather have rims and tires in my garage for the season. But I am not sure if this is correct or if this will do any damage to my transfer case. Any advice would help

Alright BMW gods, what do you reckon?

For those who saw my previous post about the Valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft incident… yep, this is the same car 💀

The replacement Valvetronic motor is hooked into the eccentric shaft gear properly and isn’t just spinning freely, so hopefully that’s a good sign.

The car cranks but still refuses to start. It occasionally coughs/tries to fire but never actually catches.

I’ve confirmed spark and there’s fuel getting through. MAF is connected and the starter has also been replaced.

The video is just me cranking it with the throttle body exposed so you can see/hear what’s happening. I’ve also tried starting it fully assembled with the intake back on, same result.

I’m mainly wondering about the cranking sound in the video. Does it sound like normal compression to you guys, or does it sound unusually fast/light/uneven?

I’m guessing it may need an ISTA Valvetronic relearn/adaptation, but not sure if that would explain the no-start.

It’s booked in with a BMW specialist now, but figured I’d ask Reddit before they take my wallet 😂

Any thoughts appreciated.

Sorry in advance if I am not very clear: English is not my first language.

We own a 2015 X4 (F26) with 200k km. Bought it new ten years ago.

Since a few weeks, when we stop at a red light for instance, the gear sometimes changes from D to N (or P, not sure) on its own. It does not happen frequently at all (once a week approximately).

Has anyone experienced that? Any idea what it could be the sign of?

We're going to bring the car to BMW but if I have an idea of what it could be, I would feel more comfortable.

Thanks.

My BMW 22 inch wheels come with summer tires, I need to get ready for ny winter, we don’t get snow like that anymore but it’s. Any suggestion what to do, keep the 22 and out all season or get new rims and tires, what size rim can I go down to without damaging the transfer cases. Any suggestions will help.

Another thing my door handles on all 4 doors it’s like loose I can move jt up and down is that normal or is something loose

260,000KM should I replace it urgently?