They did it in the 1990s with the New Beetle and look what it did for VW sales in America:

If they can do it once they can do it again,

Ok V-Dubbers need suggestions what’s everyone use to clean their engine bay? tins, motor I mean everything lol is there a cleaner or degreaser that you just spray on and you just watch all the filth melt away? I just hate cleaning it because there’s some spots that are unreachable for my fat hands to reach and at shows I’m like well I hope nobody notices that spot lol

What’s everyone’s routine and what products do you all use?

Thanks in advance 🤘

On my '64, my rear bearing caps appear to be of the early style that require oil deflectors on the exterior of the assembly rather than the newer washer-style deflector. However, the oil deflectors are missing, causing the gear oil to leak inside the drum. It appears the drums were replaced at some point and the new ones do not have drain holes for the early-style deflectors. I have added pictures for reference. The first pic shows the early-style deflectors that I am talking about.

What are my options for fixing the issue?

Dear Aircooled friends!

I ordered a 3-point automatic seatbelt-kit form
MCF (Italian company)

Since the kit did not come with any
installation instructions whatsoever I and standing here in front of a pile of
screws and co. and have no idea what goes into what and where?

Surely I contacted the firm asking them for an
installation guide but they pretty much sold me to screw myself...instead of
the car.

Please guys: Help me out!

Thanks so much!

Hello Reddit!
I bought my first Beetle about two months ago. It's a 1967 driven mainly in Sweden since it's birth.

When I bought her, she was incredibly low having both an adjustable front axle and lowered spindles. The front axle was not safe to drive with but I fortunately found an enthusiast not far from me, willing to help!

When getting her to said enthusiast, I discovered an oil leak at what seems to be the rear main seal. I plan on fixing this during winter. In the beginning there were big puddles of oil beneath her, but now lately as the oil level has been lowered to about half the dipstick, she only loses a few drops. I am no mechanic yet but I wonder, could it be she was overfilled as well that made her lose so much oil? I have not filled her with any oil, since she has been in a good range on the dipstick. And now I wonder if an overfilling by the last owner could have caused her to leak. Any thoughts?

I daily a Volvo S40 from 2006. The engine in a beetle obviously sounds a lot different from my Volvo. I am sending a video with this post of the engine. Does everything sound alright to you guys? Since I need to get the engine out the change the rear main seal anyway, if something sounds of I can fix it at the same time!

I'm looking forward to learning everything about this car, thanks for all the help in advance!

https://reddit.com/link/1w54jv7/video/samg3i0hj2nh1/player

The beetle gods have blessed me with my latest quirk driving my 1981 Beetle. When I attempt to turn, my horn goes off. Upon taking off the cover, I discovered 2 different styles of wheel contacts, missing one of the metal clips on the top left portion, as well as what looks like hot glue??? Which contacts are the right one? Anyone know where i can get replacement metal clips, as i cant seem to find any? And why would someone put hotglue on them? Thanks.

So, I'm considering doing something dumb and getting a Bug as my first car. Most likely 1300 because they're most common here. I did some searching but I'd also like to get some first-hand opinions: how much annual maintenance costs? What are red flags and common issues (other than rust ofc)? What can be fixed "in the parking lot", and what is better left to a mechanic? Is garage necessary or can it be worked around (ik rust is a problem)? What quality of life upgrades would you suggest?

Aircooled Accesories makes these nice looking gauges with a classic / vintage / retro style that I really like. However, they are made in the UK and the prices are quite expensive.

Does anyone know similar alternatives at more affordable prices?

https://aircooledaccessories.com/product/voltage-gauge/

The manual says DOT 3 or 4 glycol based but the auto parts store doesn't have glycol based. He said that DOT 3 and 4 have glycol in them but can I use that or is there some hidden link or type i am not seeing? I have a 1970 with Drums all around

I have a 2014 Beetle Coupe (1.8L) that has been making a weird click/clunk sound when I let off the gas pedal (occasionally after letting off the brake or when I coast). I recently had an exhaust clamp replaced, the sway bar welded, got new rear shocks and front struts, and last year got new control arms.
My mechanic is trustworthy. He couldn’t tell what it was exactly and made some calls. The thought from some other VW mechanics was it might be the axels or the transmission. I’ve already put so much money into this car this year but can’t afford a new one so have to get it fixed. Has anyone else had a similar issue?

Hi all! Hoping for some help diagnosing an issue with my first bug. I will preface this by saying I’ve never worked on cars before this and am learning on the fly. She’s a 1972 Super Beetle. Bought her 6 months ago from a VW mechanic in Rhode Island. I will say the wiring (and lack thereof this guy did is probably part of the issue. (Literally left a brand new headlight unplugged) All the old wiring was still there, some things weren’t grounded or cleaned before new wires were attached and the old wiring harness is still there. (Photos to come)

She ran for 4 months and then wouldn’t start in mid June. Engine was turning over but not firing so I know it was getting some power or the power was fluctuating, tested with a multimeter.

So far I have replaced

- 12V battery
- ground and positive from the battery
- starter and starter solenoid. Bench tested the old and new and both worked 🤷🏻‍♀️ now I have a backup ig
- fuse boxes
- what I think is the rear defroster solenoid, picture included. Says SWF R 601-047 12V 15A. *Taken out and put back in because I thought it was the starter relay*

I’ve been bump starting her once a week since she crapped out except for the past 4 weeks since I went on vacation. Yesterday I took out what I believed to be the old starter relay and wiring for it (now I think it’s the rear defroster solenoid?) and now the engine isn’t even firing (dirty carb issue due to sitting for a month?)

If anyone can offer insight into what I’m screwing up or if I’m missing something super obvious I’d appreciate the hell out of it. I’m honestly stumped and this close to giving up and taking it to be completely rewired, but I’d like to see if I can exhaust every avenue before that. (I don’t wanna spend that much dough to tow it there if it’s something stupid simple)

Ended up buying a new header but once I installed it I realized my stinger was to small to bolt to the collector 🤷🏻father in law came to the rescue and made that sucker work 🤣it runs and sounds so much better not having 10 exhaust leaks, even get the snap crackle pops when down shifting now🤘

Hi everyone! Wanted to show the progress we are making, it’s coming along great; we just need to finish one more side window, and do some wiring and she’s ready to hit the roads, also getting it ready for the Rollout they are doing in San Antonio so that’s gonna be good

I have tightened the two screws on the shifter as much as I can and I can shift gears but in neutral the wheels still spin. Pressing the clutch makes the wheels slow and stop but letting off makes them spin up again. I plan to try and drive the car soon after I bleed the brakes and get new tires, so I am worried I will have trouble shifting.

Its really amazing how these things somehow work when they shouldn’t, took apart the transaxle to replace 2nd gear synchro only to find out 4th gear missing some of its teeth, the circlip was missing completely on the pinion shaft so 4th gear was rubbing against the housing, shift fork shafts had sooooo much play too, the nosecone was cracked, and the brass bushing was being held on by a hose clamp, 3rd engagement gear had twice the end float of the upper limit and a cracked synchronizer ring, the worst issue was that the 3rd/4th slider hub was loose on the shaft due to a very worn woodruff key i have no idea it had no other issues than 2nd gear grinding and the shifter being a little bit stiff. After correcting everything its not as stiff anymore and every gear engages like butter almost like a modern car its so much more pleasant to drive now.