260,000KM should I replace it urgently?

Hello everyone , i have 2014 BMW f32 420i , the sound only comes when car stationary and it transfers to the dash and center console and it comes when in reverse or P or when i press the accelerator only a little bit but whenever i drive the car the sound disappears, is there anyone of you guys have any idea about the problem

should i be worried? i’ve had the car for 3k miles and it’s already got glitter in the oil.

Hey so a few days ago my ‘22 M5 started making a few distinct rattling noises towards the end of a long (3 hour) drive. As far as I can tell they all started at the same time so I’m hoping they have the same cause.

The first noise is a constant rattle coming from the driver’s side near the exhaust which you can hear at the start of the video. I then measured the oil through iDrive and you can hear that noise gets louder while that runs.

The second noise happens intermittently but very often while moving. I tried to see if revving in neutral would produce the noise, but no dice. I would describe this noise as a scraping, honestly it sounds like shaking a can of bolts, and it happens sometimes while downshifting in the 1-2k rpm range, and sometimes while up shifting from a stop for the first 3 gears or so. Naturally I wasn’t able to get a recording of it, but I’m pretty sure it’s also coming from the driver’s side towards the rear. This sound is much… worse, at least to my ear.

The noises persist regardless of drive settings and are quite loud. The car is not throwing any new codes in Bimmerlink nor any warnings or errors in iDrive.

Worth noting car is under CPO warranty and I’ll definitely have it checked out, but after my old 550 spent 7 straight months in the shop last year with a warranty issue, I’m wondering if it’s okay to roll around like this until my next oil change in 2 months.

Thanks in advance

i got 2010 328i (e93)
I’ve watched every single video on youtube manually released the hydraulic pressure, and unlocked the flap latches. The tonneau cover (the compartment lid) opens up fine but when I try to lift the hardtop out, it feels like it's still locked inside the trunk area...It won't budge at all.....Even though I already bypassed the hydraulics and released the latches, the hardtop is getting stuck because of some lock mechanism inside the trunk. Does anyone know why this happens? If anyone knows a fix, please help me out 😭😭

I have a 2021 F22 M240i xDrive (B58, 250 kW) and I take it to track days occasionally. The car is unmodified, except for race suspension.

Once I was on a track, the day was hot (around 35°C) and noticed that on some straights I was accelerating pretty slowly. Just out of interest I turned on the power display on the infotainment and no surprise, it was actually showing less power. On some straights instead of full 500 Nm I was getting only around 300 Nm. Power peaked at 120-140 kW max.

Initially I thought that maybe its normal, as other people were also complaining about temperature warnings, although I did not hear anything about power loss... My car showed absolutely no warnings. The only thing I could monitor about the car was oil temperature and it was maybe just 1-3°C higher than normal. The coolant levels were normal. No check engine light.
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A month later im on another track, this time a karting circuit, so no long straights. Air temperature about 23°C, so just a normal summer day here.

This time I was expecting the car to be okay, but just after around 2 minutes I again felt slow acceleration. The display showed power peaks of 140-160 kW.
If I let the car cool down for a minute and then give full gas, it accelerates normally and display shows full 250 kW.

This can not be okay with the car. I have read some other forums about overheating, but people were experiencing power loss after 15 minutes of driving on a very hot day, not just 2 minutes on a normal summer day.

I also have a friend that has an F22 M240i with some modifications, but says he has not experienced any of this.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Where could the problem be? Could it be electronics limiting power by being too safe with temperatures or something?

I’ve just replaced the intake manifold on my 435D (N57 engine) and it turns out that the swirl flap actuator needs to relearn its only job.
Google AI suggests that OBDeleven can perform the adaptation routine to recalibrate the actuator, but wondered if anyone here has done this, or knows of alternative methods.

Alright BMW gods, what do you reckon?

For those who saw my previous post about the Valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft incident… yep, this is the same car 💀

The replacement Valvetronic motor is hooked into the eccentric shaft gear properly and isn’t just spinning freely, so hopefully that’s a good sign.

The car cranks but still refuses to start. It occasionally coughs/tries to fire but never actually catches.

I’ve confirmed spark and there’s fuel getting through. MAF is connected and the starter has also been replaced.

The video is just me cranking it with the throttle body exposed so you can see/hear what’s happening. I’ve also tried starting it fully assembled with the intake back on, same result.

I’m mainly wondering about the cranking sound in the video. Does it sound like normal compression to you guys, or does it sound unusually fast/light/uneven?

I’m guessing it may need an ISTA Valvetronic relearn/adaptation, but not sure if that would explain the no-start.

It’s booked in with a BMW specialist now, but figured I’d ask Reddit before they take my wallet 😂

Any thoughts appreciated.

Hi All- Just wrapping up a new project on a 2011 328xi that had had the fuel pump hose disconnect issue that's somewhat common with these. Knocked out plugs, diffs, transfer case and a few other odds and ends maintenance-wise. When I had the structural plate (?) off the belly, I took the pics here. Cleaned both sides of the plate and zipped it back up. Now I get a little seep from the two forward holes in that plate. I think I removed the crud that was holding the pan drips on the underside of that plate. dammit. I've driven maybe 50 miles and had it idling after a p/s pump job, so not pushed it hard to generate that seeping.

So: how bad is this leaking? I've seen a video or 2 on how to do the job on an x-drive and...I'd like to avoid it if at all possible. Is this really bad or do I have some time? Is there anything I can do in the interim? Like snug up the bolts I can reach or would that make it worse? Any help appreciated. And if I'm off base assuming it's the oil pan, please let me know.

Also last pic is LF shock. Safe to say it's exploded? RR is similar.

Ahoy hoy

So I had a p115d error code, since the Lambda sensor and MAF sensor have been replaced. (Bosch parts so not cheap Chinese part or anything) but the check engine light, and the code persist!

Any experience with this issue at all? Or advice on what or where to poke and prod next.

Im wanting to get a b58 from the auction (copart/iaa) and am wondering if it is worth it.(I don't want a car payment) I do work on my car myself and was wondering if i do get into this platform whether I should get it or go for something more reliable as the only ones in the price range are higher mileage B58's. I hear the noise online about the reliability but everytime i run into someone IRL with any b58 they list out a ton of problems which I would be fine if they were coolant issue as thats what I know but they aren't. They are complaints about the engine its self.

Is this set up correct to change for winter setup, I currently run 22inch wheels with staggered setups switching to square set up with 20inch wheels, I don’t wanna go with the switching tires every season would
Rather have rims and tires in my garage for the season. But I am not sure if this is correct or if this will do any damage to my transfer case. Any advice would help

Sorry in advance if I am not very clear: English is not my first language.

We own a 2015 X4 (F26) with 200k km. Bought it new ten years ago.

Since a few weeks, when we stop at a red light for instance, the gear sometimes changes from D to N (or P, not sure) on its own. It does not happen frequently at all (once a week approximately).

Has anyone experienced that? Any idea what it could be the sign of?

We're going to bring the car to BMW but if I have an idea of what it could be, I would feel more comfortable.

Thanks.

My BMW 22 inch wheels come with summer tires, I need to get ready for ny winter, we don’t get snow like that anymore but it’s. Any suggestion what to do, keep the 22 and out all season or get new rims and tires, what size rim can I go down to without damaging the transfer cases. Any suggestions will help.

Another thing my door handles on all 4 doors it’s like loose I can move jt up and down is that normal or is something loose

M4 competition 25 I’m noticing at idle at a red light ive feeling a little vibration and I actually can kinda hear a little pop from the engine very very faintly. Car has 10k miles on it… anyone know what this could be? I’m going to bring it to bmw… but want your guys thoughts. Car drives perfectly when I’m not idling

I had a Femto unlock performed on my 2022 X5 M50i. This was performed with a Magic Motorsport flex device. So mail in option was not necessary. After trying to flash the DME with an OTS stage 1 map, it failed at 0 percent. The DME now says “Bench Unlock” instead of “Femto Unlocked”. Car no longer starts. I’m not sure what happened. Car was on a battery charger from another truck, used an enet and had everything turned off so it wouldn’t drain. Any help would be appreciated.

This is a little long, but I’d like to capture all of the steps I’ve taken so far to paint the picture of what is happening. For some background, I picked up a lower mileage (25k mi) 2022 X7 M50i a few months ago.

My wife rode over a curb exiting a shopping center. When the tire dropped back down, it threw a Chassis error. After jacking the rear up, I saw the the plastic ball stud on the height sensor lever arm had snapped. I elected to replace both rear sensors with new BMW sensors and installed metal ball studs as well. This all went without issue.

A few weeks later I felt it would be prudent to replace both front sensors as well, so all sensors would be at similar lifespan. Completed the swap and all was good, other than the front riding a little high. Vehicle did not report any issues. I was out of time for that weekend, so decided to wait until the following weekend to calibrate the VDP to the sensors via ISTA.

Executed the calibration the procedure in ISTA. Upon start up, it threw a Chassis error. I reviewed the fault codes and began diagnosing. The codes steered me to the front right corner being an issue.

- I reviewed live voltage for all four corners and all are within the expected 0.5v-4.5v range. I disconnected the front right lever arm and moved it through its range and see a smooth voltage swing. I do see this corner having lower voltage than the others, however I do not suspect the sensor is the issue.

- I probed the sensor connector and see 4.99V for the supply circuit.

- I checked continuity on the signal wire from the connector at the sensor back to the connector at the VDP and have continuity, so there isn’t a break in the wire. This should have been obvious considering I watched the signal voltage swing in ISTA.

- I looked at the calculated ride heights in ISTA and see -3338mm for the front right corner. This does not change if I move the sensor lever arm (even though the voltage does change).

My conclusion at that point was that the VDP was faulty. I figured I must have shorted that corner’s signal circuit at some point and killed a component within that circuit, causing that math channel to die and just report the -3338mm I was seeing.

I sourced a used replacement VDP from a 2022 X7 M50i on eBay. Swapped it in and programmed/coded it. Happy days! No more errors, I was seeing a normal ride height in ISTA again for the FR corner. I drove it around the block and all was good, no errors. Pulled it into the garage to have a flat spot to calibrate the VDP to the sensors. Went ahead and did so, and upon start up it immediately threw the Chassis error again and I am seeing the same symptoms in ISTA.

Need some direction on where to go with this and where to investigate. Has anyone gone down a similar rabbit hole?

2018 330i xdrive with 73k miles, I do oil changes every 5k but the last 2 oil changes i’ve had a message come up that oil levels are minimum and it needs to be refilled immediately. First time around I just refilled and went on and everything was fine then got an oil change. This time I noted that it came up only 3300 miles after getting an oil change, I haven’t had any leaks under the car or can see anything from where i’ve looked in the engine. also should’ve checked the oil inside before refilling it but is it possible the sensor has gone bad or is it more realistically a leak?

Hey, I bought this Meyle expansion tank since I’m swapping the oil filter housing, water pump, and cooling system parts on my 16 340i this weekend. There’s some leftover plastic strands hanging out on the new tank - particularly the level. I’ll try to remove them but they’re deep in there. Should I be worried about plastic debris getting into the cooling system?

Can someone more educated than me please tell me if i can flash a bm3 tune to my 2018 230i with a red mhd wifi adapter? If i use the mhd adapter for my tune is it locked to my car as well as the software?
the bootmod3 website says “BM3 WiFi Adapter or OBD ENET cable required, available separately” but i cannot find either on the website. my friend has the mhd adapter for his e90 and i was wondering if that would work out.

Basically, I added today my car but it took automatically GB, and I am living in Germany, I deleted the car, changed the country to Germany, and I started the steps to add my car, introduced my vin, accepted the terms and then I got stuck in a loop, any advice?

Thank you in advance!

Just noticed this gap on my right side of the hood, not sure if its my bumper sagging or if theres something wrong with the latch but any help/recommendation will be appreciate.

The car

2009 BMW 118i, E81 three door, N43B20A, 143 hp, manual. 145,250 km when I bought it, 148,600 km now. I am the new owner, bought it on 3 July 2026 from a small dealer, so about two months ago.

Known history: the timing chain kit was replaced at 139,000 km in 2025 by a previous owner. I do not have the invoice for that work and I do not know who did it. Service booklets are present. I do not know when the oil was last changed, how old the spark plugs are, or what index injectors are fitted.

My usage: mostly short trips, roughly 1,200 km a month, commuting plus town driving. Rarely long motorway runs.

The noise

A clear, hard tick under light load. It shows up between roughly 2000 and 3000 rpm and is most obvious in 2nd gear when I barely crack the throttle open. It is gone under full throttle and gone when accelerating properly. Sitting in the car at idle I do not hear it at all.

With the hood open at idle there is a tick, but a friend who knows these engines says that is just normal direct injection injector noise. I honestly cannot tell, because I never listened to this engine with the hood open before the problem started, so I have no baseline.

The engine runs smooth, pulls normally, no misfires I can feel, no CEL, no warning lights, no drivability issues at all. Just the noise.

Why the timing bothers me

The car sat in a garage for 10 days while I was on holiday. The day I got back I drove it home, a long motorway run of a couple of hours, and heard nothing. The next day the tick was there, and it has been there every drive since.

So it appeared overnight rather than gradually. Nothing was done to the car in between. No service, no parts, no repairs, nobody else drove it.

Earlier history that may or may not be related

In the first two weeks of ownership the red oil pressure warning came on twice while driving. Once briefly while stopped at a light, once after about an hour of driving. Both times it cleared after switching the engine off and back on, and it has not come back since. Oil level was fine both times, checked on the onboard computer.

It was never diagnosed, no codes were ever read, and I did not report it to the seller at the time. In hindsight that was a mistake.

Other observations

Oil level is good, checked again yesterday. When I take the oil filler cap off a warm engine, vapour comes out of the filler neck. I know some vapour is normal, but I have not done a proper crankcase pressure test yet with the cap resting on the neck or with a glove.

Engine bay looks dry. No visible leaks around the valve cover or down the block.

What the seller says

He is a BMW specialist with the software and tooling in house. He has only heard the audio clip and seen the video. No scan, no inspection, he has not touched the car. His reaction was that to him it sounds like worn rod bearings.

What has actually been measured

Nothing at all. No fault codes read, no injector correction values, no oil pressure test, no inspection. That is the next step and I want to go in with a decent plan rather than guessing.

My questions

1. Does a tick that appears overnight after 10 days of sitting point away from rod bearings? My reasoning is that bearing wear is gradual, and the car was quiet on a long drive the day before. I would rather be told I am wrong now than find out later.
2. Is a collapsed or stuck hydraulic lifter realistic here, given the sitting period? My understanding is they bleed down when a car sits and should refill within minutes, so if that were it, would it not have gone away on the next drive?
3. How much weight should I give those two unexplained oil pressure warnings from two months ago? Is it plausible that they and this noise share a cause, or am I connecting dots that are not connected?
4. Could this be VANOS related? It runs on oil pressure, it sits on the camshaft, and it is most active exactly in the part load range where I hear the noise. Or does VANOS trouble on the N43 always throw a code?
5. Given the timing chain kit was done at 139k, is it worth suspecting anything from that job? Debris left in the sump, a pickup screen issue, a chain tensioner that is not right?
6. If you were diagnosing this, what would you measure first? My plan is a mechanical oil pressure test with a gauge at operating temperature, plus cutting open the oil filter and checking the sump plug magnet for bearing material. Injector correction values and misfire counters after that. Am I missing something obvious or doing it in the wrong order?

Video's:
Driving, tacho visible: https://youtube.com/shorts/dqfchF4al3g?feature=share
Idle, hood open: https://youtube.com/shorts/3fBjisx-D5I?feature=share
Audio only, cleanest recording: https://youtu.be/4MrcpAUyHuc