Idle inconsistently rising and falling from 1k-2k RPM. Recently tuned floats and reset mixture screws, what are some culprits to this issue?

Few days ago I would try and start the bike, pull clutch and press starter but she wouldn’t turn on, after another attempt it started up, then recently it happened again followed by my whole center console going dim and turning off, checked my battery and it was dead, then I replaced it and she started up fine, than today I took her out she started normally first try and I parked up got food went back and she wouldn’t start, I pulled clutch in and pressed starter and there was no response no clanking no noise nothing. Then after about 4 more attempts of turning bike on and off moving kickstand on and off she finally started up and I rode home. Why is this happening?

Went down on it a little over a year ago, been working my ass off trying to get it up and running again. I replaced the air filter, the TPS sensor, the stator and stator cover, handle bar, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump regulator. At first i had her going but her idle would be absolute shit on cold start. She would start revving and then either die after 2 mins or go crazy and jump to 9k rpms and be stuck up there without me touching the throttle. Eventually i kinda got that fixed. But most recently, I took her out on the highway to test her out and she how she was preforming. About halfway through the ride she began stalling. As in the more throttle i gave the more she bogged down and i wasnt accelerating. I turned around and was almost home when she completely shut down while im doing 90 on the highway going uphill. She refused to start up while in motion or in neutral. i pulled over about half a mile away from the exit and waited a while for her to cool down. I attempted several more times after she cooled to try and start her up but she isnt even attempting to turn over. All the electrical stuff is working just fine. Any ideas or thoughts on my issue here?

Anybody know what this hole on the back bottom side of my water pump is? Dealing with one or more issues right now. Started as a large coolant leak that i couldnt locate after adding water. Inspecting it revealed a little oil in coolant and a little coolant in oil. Rode fine other than that. Dumped both liquids and changed out the seal for the oil cooler (which I am just realizing may have been the wrong seal). Filled everything up and found a small coolant leak. I seemed to have sprung a pinhole leak in the hose near the water pump. But i am also leaking out of this hole. The included picture is one off of Ebay, but mine has the same hole. Why is there an included hole that leaks coolant? Is there an oring messed up in there causing that? Could that cause my coolant and oil mix? I feel like I am having too many separate issues at the same time. I probably just suck at troubleshooting.

It seems like the voltage is low—what on earth is the problem? 🥲

I had the same issue lately (at 6700km), few hundreds km later after oil change (probably wasn't the cause), **developed this chain rattling/oil light issue. Illuminated from 4s to even 10-15s after hot restart, later once or twice it did it even at cold start**. I only used 10w50 Motorex, as manufacturer recommends. Changed oil and filters religiously (original KTM) between 1700-2300km (now after 1200km).

**First thing I did:**
\- changed the oil pressure relief valve and spring - spring was actually a bit shorter than new one and would recommend to do it as a preventive maintance. It's easy job and it is already described on this forum.
\- it stopped doing it, but after next hot engine restart (35km+, full throttle), same issue, I developed headache at this time, because I've read all horor stories at ktmforums, where they changed engine case, piston, later even whole engine in warranty and hold your hat, it didn't help (including changing tensioner, checking oil pumps, changing oil and filters, sensor, etc.)

**Second thing I did:**
\- friend of mine recommended using 15w60 Motul 300v Offroad
\- didn't believe him fully at first and just to be sure I've watched pirateracing guy, who recommends this oil due to all kind of reasons, if I remeber correctly it was mostly for bearings and oil drain back prevention, (btw Motorex pays to KTM for being used in all their products - I didn't know that - maybe you do)
\- pirateracing recommends also to change O ring on tensioner (I didn't do it), that likes to fail (all procedure and wisdom is searchable at his youtube channel)
\- one negative is you have to change oil earlier (2500-3000km max), but I did it anyways earlier with 10w50 Motorex, so no issue for me

And olala, problem solved, did 100-150km already, and no issue, rattling went away, oil light always goes off mostly in 1s, max 2s, quickshifter and shifting generally is smoother, engine is a little bit quiter and no false neutrals.

Give it a try, it's cheapest solution and I've read all kind of threads, forums and nothing helped, except this oil alternative and changing oil relief pressure valve and spring, plus cleaning tube which connects to oil pressure sensor could be clogged, but that couldn't be my case due to chain rattle sound. Faulty oil pressure sensor was ruled out as well.

I'm not saying it will work for all of you, but it worked for a lot of people. Maybe it will start to do it again, but I did already at least 15-20 hot restarts and it didn't do it at all.

I could put there video, if u want, what it exactly did to me (I filmed it once), but it's all the same and you can filter it up on youtube/facebook, there is a lot of +- similar stories.
**/edit: video is already uploaded in the comment section**

I had to share it, because I scratched my head for a long time and can confirm, that it fixed at least my issues officialy.

ktmforums:
[https://www.ktmforum.eu/forum/thread/119440-%C3%B6ldruckwarnlampe-leuchtet-zu-lange-smc-r-2018-2024/?pageNo=14\](https://www.ktmforum.eu/forum/thread/119440-%C3%B6ldruckwarnlampe-leuchtet-zu-lange-smc-r-2018-2024/?pageNo=14)

pirateracing:
[https://youtu.be/7YYAoO2Avcw\](https://youtu.be/7YYAoO2Avcw)

Thank you for reading it all and hopefully it will help to you as well.

New 80cc piston and rings, new carburetor, new spark plug. It’s got spark , combustion, and fuel but won’t start any ideas ?? And the scooter is a rokata I believe 2016 . Now I was able to get it to turn over for a second with starter fluid but then died checked the spark plug and it’s wet

So, I recently bought a Yamaha 1992 XT350 from its original owner, who I also coincidentally met in the past. He gave me the bike to test it, bring it to a mechanic etc, it was running and starting fine, so no issues. Unfortunately the gear that pumps oil to the engine was worn so after a long ride, the engine was almost blown. I changed the piston and a few things on the top end, as well as the 2 small rubber air intakes and have been struggling to start the bike ever since.

I managed to do it a few times when starting cold on a warm day, by opening the choke. When the choke remains on and Inride the motorcycle, it coughs and will not allow me to rev up (i am not pushing a lot since I have the new piston).

Yesterday after 1-2 min. riding with the choke, I closed the choke and at some point the engine stalled while I still had the clutch engaged. I thought I had no gas. I put one liter to ride it to the gas station and managed to start it to get there. Once I filled the bike with petrol, it never started again. Tried like 100 times, tried running downhill and put 2nd gear, left it for 4 hours for the engine to cool down, tried choke on and off, throttle and no throttle, nothing works.

it has become too tiring to start the bike, but I want to try and fix it, as I am already more than 2000$ out and have never properly ridden it.

Any help appreciated...

Hi all,

I have bought a honda CG with the aim of restoring it and running it while I am completing my license in the UK. However I have been unable to get it to produce a spark

I have replaced the ignition coil, plug cover, points and cleaned the alternator and am still not producing a spark. I have noticed that the ignition coil is producing static when kicking the starter however, which was not happening before replacing the points. Any advice would be great!

I got this second hand 2021 honda rebel 500 back at the start of the year and when I bought it I saw it didn't have much left on the brake pads and knew they'd need replacing soon but otherwise looked fine.

Fast forward to a couple months ago the rear pads are completely gone and the front has barely anything left and is leaking a teeny bit so I finally took it to the garage and they replaced all the pads and the cylinder on the front and it was all good for a couple months.

Now to the the present the front brake is leaking again and worse. in two rides half of the reservoir seems to have leaked out and its below the low limit so I wouldn't consider it safe to ride and it's my main mode of commute and transport. Idk if I wanna take it to the garage again cause they're kinda expensive and they take ages tbh and I have some self maintenance experience on bikes so figured I might try it.

When I first noticed and checked the breaks the leak seemed to come from where the line connects to the caliper and trickle down the front of the caliper. I'm not super familiar with brake systems and terms for all that but the washers on the hose fitting don't exactly look super mint.

After trying to pump the brakes a bit more to chase the leak it seems to be coming from inside around the pads or cylinder and dripping out of the bottom (see images) and stuff so idk if it's the cylinders or maybe I need a whole new caliper.

Any advice or help on for further diagnosing the specific part or seal or issue or what to look out for if I disassemble it and what to fix or replace would be very appreciated thanks!

Just recently got the bike it didn’t make this hell another day but when I started it this morning, it had a knocking /tapping sound that went away overtime. Can someone please tell me what this is and hopefully it’s not that expensive. What does it sound like it could be

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some help diagnosing an issue with my 2021 Yamaha Tracer 7 (CP2) with around 24,000 km / 15,000 miles.

Recently the bike has started behaving differently at idle.

Symptoms:
Idle has become noticeably less smooth/steady than before.
The bike occasionally stalls while idling.
It seems to happen more often when the engine is cold, although the idle doesn’t feel completely smooth when warm either.
The check engine light has now also come on.
Every time I start the bike, whether the engine is completely cold or already warm, the RPM briefly shoots up to around 3,000–4,000 rpm before dropping back down.
Once running and riding, the bike generally seems to run much better than it does at idle.
The battery also seems to drain fairly quickly if I leave the ignition switched on without the engine running.

I have checked the battery/charging system and the numbers seem healthy:
Engine off: around 12.6 V
During starting: around 11.0 V
At 4–5k rpm: around 14.0 V

So I don’t currently think the charging system is the main problem.

The bike has around 24,000 km on it. I’m wondering if this could be related to:
Idle Speed Control / ISC valve
Dirty throttle bodies
Throttle body synchronization
Vacuum/intake leak
MAP/TPS or another sensor
Spark plugs/coils
Injector/fueling issue

The high 3–4k RPM flare on every startup, including with a warm engine, combined with the unstable idle and occasional stalling, makes me particularly suspicious of the idle control/throttle body system.

I’m going to read the stored fault code before clearing anything.

Has anyone with a 2021+ MT-07 / Tracer 7 / CP2 experienced something similar?
What ended up being the cause?
And are there any specific hoses, sensors, throttle body/ISC components or common failure points you would recommend checking first?
Thanks!

engine has 27k miles, was sitting for long time. recently got engine running and thought it was timing chain so I installed manual cct, valves were all in spec, any ideas ? Also this is after a few minutes of idle

Stripped my bike down today because my ypvs was not working properly.
The bike is a 1987 Yamaha DT125
My ypvs servo has issues because it normally doesn't work at all or just works but only after a ride or after I ran the engine a little bit.
I wanna change my battery because it's old and probably worn out (12V 5Ah).
Sometimes the servo motor works just fine with the "bzzz-bzzzz" sound but only after running the engine for a lil bit.
I took the plastics and tank off my bike and tried to inspect and clean every connector in sight but no luck. Still think it's the battery.
•And what is this black box? Is it the regular CDI or the controller for ypvs?
•There is another box that says YAMAHA on it and is right next to the ypvs motor.
I would apreciate everyone's help and advice if you've ever owned a bike like this.

Hi guys so I was looking on the forum and saw people that were having problem when the bike went to 6.5k rpms the Benelli would gag and not develop so I bought a after market piece and installed it placed everything like it was before but after replacing it and place the circuit on the fuel pump stoped working and I don’t why it’s happening .
Everything is in place at least I think my first opinion is that the vaccum from the maps tube is not correctly placed
Can anyone help me with this

thanks and sorry for my bad English

My buddy was riding the bike a couple months ago and as he was accelerating all of the electronics went completely dark and the engine just stopped. There were no lights, warnings, anything, everything just stopped working. When we got it back home, I found that the main 20 amp fuse had blown, and later found out that the starter solenoid had a short. I put a spare fuse in it, and as soon as the key turned, it blew. I bought a new starter solenoid, hooked it up and turned the key on. This time, the electrics came on, and it seemed like I'd fixed it. When I tried turning the engine over it cracked a couple times before the same thing happened, it all died. Same thing, try another fuse, turn the key, fuse blows immediately. Since then I've done about all of the tests I can think of with a multimeter and haven't found anything, other than the solenoids (new and old) were shorted. If I plug the battery in and bypass the solenoid, just connecting the positive to the starter motor, it cranks just fine, and the terminals remain at room temperature. I took the starter motor off and turned it by hand, it turned by hand and seems to have the right amount of tension. To me at least, it seems like it could be anything other than the starter motor causing this short.

Does anyone know what it is/could be and where I should test next/how to do it?

UPDATE The starter solenoid isn't shorted, I had a false reading. Testing it tonight, the electric system powered on for a time until more current was sent through it by me hitting the horn (I didn't do this when the fuse blew before, so it's not that). I put a bigger fuse in to see if that would work with it, and it blew that instantly. Currently thinking it may not be a wire grounding itself to the bike via vibration, but rather heat causing a short. If there's anything that would cause overheating that lead to a hard-short? I'm not sure where/what is causing it still