This was annoying me, so I fixed it.

I made a tiny plugin that lets you align text without moving its position.

That's it. Super simple. 

PS 24.2+

Free download here:

https://ko-fi.com/s/0a2978c310

Demo video here:

vimeo.com/1223522108

Hey! Please, help me define the logic to create backgrounds like this! Tysm! <3

I'm looking to design some multicolor stamps like the ones from Le Tampographe (https://tampographe.com/).

Does anyone have any tips how to create the layers for a multicolor stamp? Any tutorials?

Hi everyone! I absolutely love the aesthetic of this Artwork. I know it's a datamosh effect, but I'm looking for methods on how to apply it specifically to a still image, not a video. Are there any apps, specific Photoshop techniques, or specialized scripts (like Processing) that can create this heavy, melted, and layered look? Any tips, tutorials, or software recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!

is there a way you can have text type from the center of a box instead of the top center? exactly like how text works on an instagram story

Trying to figure out what pack this brush comes from. Picture is taken from a tutorial and i could not find any information. Any suggestions on what this brushtype is called would be greatly appreciated.

HI friends,...

I see a copy of CS4 for sale online and want to know 'can I still use it?'

--- The seller says "Sold as vintage collectibles only, software cannot be activated as ADOBE no longer supports"!

I'm presently using Windows 10. --- > I know its an old one, but I thought that CS4 was one of the best 'offline' photoshop versions.

• Can I use it or should I look for a substitute?

Thanks very much for your help!

Making this for a fingerboard (tech deck) company and would like some input on everything. Just looks too flat to me. I have about 1.5 years of experience with Ps so still a lot for me to learn.

Hello, everybody! Can anybody guide me the steps on how to make a 5x7 card mockup? (I'm sorry.. I have no idea about doing this..) Thank you, kind people.

I’ve already read that the seams appear due to the algorithm's calculations and smoothing, but I don't understand how to fix this.

Thanks in advance!

I'm a 19 year old photographer from North Yorkshire, and I've recently ditched documentary work like weddings to focus on artistic mediums like music and fashion. Bold and stupid, I know, but I'll keep doing it on the side of my actual job till it works.

I'm learning Photoshop / graphic design so I can offer more than just photography. As a starting point, I've been making 'title cards' for the first photo in each of my Instagram posts. Basically posters but they just state the name and venue.

I'll explain my first 4 attempts:

1. Nancy: My first try. Originally made in Canva, quickly realised that I need to learn Photoshop instead.

2. Nick: Tried a subject cutout over a blurred image. Experimented with fonts, spacing and scaling. Used generative remove for the background and Instagram flagged as entirely AI, so that's a tool I'll stay away from.

3. Stargazer: Played with shapes to add depth, and added a shadow from the dudes head onto the text.

4. Vagabond: Experimented with blending, opacity, pixelation, distortion, drop shadows and blur. I added the band's anarchy symbol and redacted his eyes, and used blurred black squares to distance the text. Also ditched my name, gear and camera settings, it felt more like a watermark.

Each one has improved from the last, but I know I still have a long way to go.

What ideas, tools and concepts should I try next? Are there any YouTube videos or tutorials that would help me specifically for this use?

Also, has anyone seen other music photographers do this? I got this idea from the car scene, people often make simple posters like this with cars, but I've never seen it in music. Is that for a reason?

Thanks to anyone who took the time to look and read!

I want to make this photo background fully white and/or make it brighter evenly, getting rid of the black in the corner while also keeping the shadows and realism. How do i do this!

So this may sound whiny and kind of dumb, but I feel like I have lost my creative juices like a few years ago, I used to have all sorts of ideas. I have taken a break for a hot minute, but it doesn't feel like I have the chops for it anymore. Any way to get out of the slump? Let me know; any advice would help!

Hopefully this is the right place to post this because I got flamed in the design subreddit. And if it’s not
I’m sorry. I’m new to graphic design and I’m trying to make posters so I made this as my 3rd design. I kind of looked through images on unplash and did random stuff and this is it turned out. Any tips or things I can improve on? And is there anything I should try out next? Thanks

Hi there. I'm trying to break down this dds (it's a png here, but I have others that are dds files) file into layers, or at least decompose this file into layers so I can make whatever changes I want to it. Is there any way for me to do that?

Hi! I’ll try to make this as short as I can while providing as much helpful information as I can upfront. I’m a photographer, I’m working on editing a horse show at the moment and seemingly overnight, this problem occurred. I made no changes that I can think of to literally anything. I work from a Dell XPS, and color calibrated it when I purchased it years ago using i1Profiler. I know photography, I know editing, but admittedly I do not know the tech side of things very well. Is color calibration something I would have to do again over time? Is this something that could have potentially “reset” something when photoshop last updated?

This was obviously jarring while in the middle of editing, kind of makes it impossible to know what I’m getting. Like I said in the title, when I save the photo to my laptop from photoshop, the image retains the colors from photoshop. So anything I may need to do in further color/lighting-wise in photoshop can only be done blindly, and you wouldn’t see the true colors until it’s saved and opened elsewhere. This leads me to feel that it is a photoshop issue, but I could be wrong.

The only other things I can think to add currently:
•Before saving in photoshop, I go to edit>convert to profile. Straight from Lightroom the “Source Space” profile is ProPhoto RGB, and the “Destination Space” profile is set to “sRGB IEC61966-2.1”, and that is what I’ve always done.
•I also go to image>mode and change the default “16 Bits/Channel” to “8 Bits/Channel”. Again, both this and the convert to profile are both things that I was taught to do, or was told to do to fix an issue that I had previously encountered. I embarrassingly do not know what these things mean in the slightest lol.
•When saving to my laptop, I save my images as JPEG
•I shoot in RAW

If there is anything else I can provide to help you help me, please let me know. I’ve done research and nobody seems to have this same issue. I should be able to respond relatively quickly, in the meantime I’ll just be here blindly editing🫡 I’m so behind schedule it’s not even funny, and among other personal life things, this roadblock slowing my progression is the absolute LAST thing that I need right now🫠 I pray someone smarter and more tech savvy than me on here can relieve me from this halt in my workload🤞🏼

The 2 designs I've made are color graded, composited and all the graphic elements are done by me in photoshop manually but just the girls are ai generated and I've done color grading and other corrections in it. All the graphic designing I've done is to embrace that funky, hyper energetic idea. So my basic concern is using AI just for the part u can't practically do becuz i can't do digital art like this it would take me years to produce something like this and I don't have means to that as well so in this case taking help from AI is right or wrong?

I use Earth Olivers FS 2.0 action for frequency separation. It's worked great for years. Now I'm using it on a large 16 bit image and when I run it, it creates the result at a larger pixel size than the original.

I tried it on a smaller image and it doesn't do it. Any thoughts?

For those who use both, on average, how long does it take Adobe and Camera Raw to catch up to the image quality of DXO Pure Raw? I'm trying to decide if I buy it or wait and hope Adobe can match it. I've always ignored DXO for many reasons, but after testing Pure Raw, I'm really impressed by how much better the demosaicing, noise reduction and lens profiles are. I'm comparing Pure Raw 6 against Camera Raw 18.6 with images from a Canon R5 shot between 100-2000 iso.

I know some of the users aren't experiencing this but it's wild that both of my machine are having one. It's really disruptive to my creative workflow that I need to restart the app in order for it to read newly installed fonts.

My work involves experimenting with some creative fonts so it's really a bummer.

Hoping you guys can help me here! Thank you so much!